When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Put in wider inner wheel housings that no longer rub like the originals, and got rid of the beat-up trunk pan. Still some work to do there but good enough for the girls we date.
Looks good! There is something strangely satisfying about fresh sheetmetal where there was none.
I delivered my '55 to a consignment dealer today. Hopefully, it will sell quickly. It's a nice car, but I've decided there's only room for one tri-5 Olds at a time in my life. I'm keeping the '54.
Pinion gear dropped four teeth! It was a type “0” from a 70 442 with 391’s. Found a guy who said he could locate a new ring and pinion. He located 3:42 gear set. I thought that would be much more drivable so I had him install them along with new bearings and seals. I’m very pleased with the outcome. I asked him where he found the gears for a type “0”, he said he’s got a good supplier.
Finished up paint correction on my 80' Cutlass this afternoon with a friend of mine. It's as good as it's going to get without burning through. We wet sanded and blended the paint a few weeks ago and wet sanded again this afternoon. The paint matches pretty well and most of the trouble has been taken care of. Perfect, no, but acceptable for a home garage job. Will get the quarter windows installed next and onto the interior. Getting closer to a new set of license plates and tires.
I sold my last Olds! Oldrush X2 .These days taking a break after 40 years or more wrenching...Besides There are Olds guys in the area I can wrench on their car!! ( I do it for free) vs them taking it to a shop.
I sold my last Olds! Oldrush X2 .These days taking a break after 40 years or more wrenching...Besides There are Olds guys in the area I can wrench on their car!! ( I do it for free) vs them taking it to a shop.
I hope you got a good price for that beautiful 63.
For the first time in 23 years I've had the chance to drive Cutty on Christmas day, and it rewarded me with blowing the heater core! Instant foggy windows Guess i know what I'm looking for tomorrow.
Last edited by DJS70cutlass; December 26th, 2023 at 07:38 PM.
I am sorry to hear about the heater core. They usually give you some warning like wet floors or steamed up windows. I actually have never heard of one blowing, they usually seep! Be prepared to go full on upside down with your feet in the air getting it out/in. That chore looks easy and straight forward but is a remove the dashboard nightmare. For the sake of getting it back on the road soon, I hope someone here can give you some quick and dirty shortcuts! A/C makes it a harder fix. I am convinced the previous owner of mine thought it easier to remove the A/C, condensor, and all to get to something like the heater core. All mine had when I got it was a hole where the A/C used to be and that affected the dampers and heater dcontrols. Be careful because some of those parts are no longer in any parts system, The best day of owning an old car is when between the repairs! Good luck and keep us up on your progress. Success stories help us all to keep at it!
Yeah no real warning on this one. It didn't really blow just in less than a minute I basically couldn't see anything out of the windshield, and the rest of the windows for that matter! Was smelling coolant as well but nothing on the passenger floor. It's a non-ac car so it'll be a fairly easy install, I'm 99% sure it's the original core. Sucks cause i just had that inner fender out in July!
Merry Christmas DJS, sorry to hear of the heater core leak, what a mean Christmas present. Hope you get back on the road soon.
I spent my Christmas day pulling the ROTO 5 out of my 62 Cutlass. Front seal is leaking and slipping in first and reverse.
I'm trying to get the motor out of my 1964 Dynamic 88, a 394, but I'm kind of stuck. I don't know if I should try to take the engine and trans as a unit, or just pull the engine. How many bolts hold the bell housing to the rear flywheel cover? I count 8, but are the lower 2 on each side also the rear motor mount bolts? It's that cross member that's got me scratching my head, also- my tech manual doesn't say anything about disconnecting the torque converter from the flywheel. The 70's era cars had a dust cover you could remove so you can turn the motor and get to each of the torque converter bolts. My tech guild seems to imply that is no torque converter bolts. It says to remove the transmission, you " move the transmission rearward 1 1/2 inches to disconnect the input shaft from the damper hub." I've got everything disconnected and ready to yank out the motor and I'm now frozen with trepidation. Any advice (words of encouragement?) are appreciated...
I don't think the engine and trans will come out together unless you pull the front fenders and radiator support.
The trans connects directly to the flywheel. The "torque converter" is built into the trans.
The engine and trans will have to be supported and then the rear mounts removed .
Then the other six bolts removed between the bell and the trans
Removal of the fan should give you enough clearance to pull the engine past the radiator support.
Check the seal at the input shaft on the trans, That may be one of your leaks.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; December 31st, 2023 at 10:53 AM.
I I cannot add a thing to that gneration Olds, sorry.. It sounds as though Olds treated engine removal as a serious issue, to have to deconstruct the front clip.
No, what I said was that the engine and trans couldn't be pulled TOGETHER without pulling the front clip.
As long as the engine is separated from the trans and the fan is removed the engine can be pulled from the engine bay.
That's exactly what I'm looking at, thanks! That's incredible. I'm doing a half assed job by comparison- meaning, the body stays on mine.
thanks LOL, if I could go back in time I would have left it together and just stepped up and paid for a baking soda blast the whole bottom of car maybe in 2015 I nearly just stuck a $500 used low miles 68 9:1 455 2v engine in that was for sale locally back then with just a intake cam and headers on the cheapo and had it at the track with a TH350 swap and it would have been quick AF ,, but talked myself out of going that route
I'm at the parts cleaning stage of the build. I got all the parts from the engine on a table or in a bucket next to it, and decided to start with the starter- because it was the dirtiest. The irony of starting with the starter only occurred to later. I was surprised to find it used to be green! I guess that means it's still the factory part, from 1964!
Slowly but surely adding more distance between the finish line and where I currently am on the '68 Cutlass.
Got the passenger fender removed and all hardware bagged and cataloged, both hood hinges off and media blasted, and convinced myself to redo the UCA bushings.
Slowly but surely adding more distance between the finish line and where I currently am on the '68 Cutlass.
Got the passenger fender removed and all hardware bagged and cataloged, both hood hinges off and media blasted, and convinced myself to redo the UCA bushings.
The impeller and timing chain cover had a lot of rust even though you can see the antifreeze. I spent today cleaning and repainting both. I will clean out the hose too. It sat for a year with just water in it when a deep freeze popped out all plugs
Back in the ‘80s I ran straight water for a while (poor school kid). Until the engine overheated because the impeller rusted off the water pump shaft. That took a while to diagnose.
The impeller and timing chain cover had a lot of rust even though you can see the antifreeze. I spent today cleaning and repainting both. I will clean out the hose too. It sat for a year with just water in it when a deep freeze popped out all plugs
As crazy as I am I have never let a project sit very long. Something about OCD. My health has been good my entire life too. I am thankful to GOD for that.
July 10th, 2023, 03:21 AM
Guess i know what I'm looking for tomorrow.
Was smelling coolant as well but nothing on the passenger floor. It's a non-ac car so it'll be a fairly easy install, I'm 99% sure it's the original core. Sucks cause i just had that inner fender out in July!
in 2015 I nearly just stuck a $500 used low miles 68 9:1 455 2v engine in that was for sale locally back then with just a intake cam and headers on the cheapo and had it at the track with a TH350 swap and it would have been quick AF ,, but talked myself out of going that route
