So had our original '69 350 2bbl Rocket & JetAway with 106k miles completely rebuilt to stock specs (rebuilt the engine only)) last year using all US NOS and US NORS parts (no Chinese stuff) by a local experienced vintage car shop. Very expensive but she runs great and have put about 200 miles on her.. IIRC a new Fusick-sourced oil tube and dipstick were added as part of the rebuild. However when checking oil today prior to a 1st oil change since the re-build I'm unable to re-insert the dipstick fully. No matter how I orient the stick, rotating in every direction, I'm unable to get it in the last 6 inches or so and don't want to force it. What in the world is going on??

 

The first thing which comes to mind is the old dipstick tube (which were added as part of the rebuild you stated) broke in the block and remains in the block.

 

If that is the case, I've read/heard one way to remove is to use an appropriately sized screw, screw/turn the screw into the hole and upon turning the screw the broken end-piece should begin to extrude from the hole - at least far enough to grasp.

 

Is the issue getting the tube in the block or getting the dipstick all the way in the tube?
Steve

 

The issue is getting the dipstick all the way into the tube. Just checked my invoices, both the tube and dipstick were replaced with new Fusick parts (oil indicator ie dipstick, and tube, part # 401568 is correct for '69-'73 350, just double checked the Fusick catalog, and I'm sure the old tube would have to have been correctly removed to install the new one... I"m pretty much stumped!

Here's pics of her btw:

 

pics

 

I've had situations where the dipstick (technical term: "indicator" ) hangs up in the tube. There's a flattened spot in the tube that aligns the dipstick as it's inserted. I've had to just push harder to get past this friction. Obviously take care not to buckle the dipstick when pushing on it.

 

Did you replace the oil pan with the rebuild? I had the same issue with a rebuilt 350 engine and I was thinking a new pan having the internal baffle was substituted for the original 350's baffleless pan. I didn't pull it apart to confirm, could have tried a borescope perhaps. I no longer have the vehicle and engine.

 

Bend the end of the stick slightly to clear what it’s hitting. You only have two ways of installing it because of the pinch at the top of the tube

bending the end help it to hook away from what its hitting

 

^^^This! At 6" out, the tip is hanging up in the vicinity of the bend just above the flange where it goes into the block. Also, a close inspection of the tube at the entrance to the block is probably warranted. It's very possible that the shop inadvertently mangled the tube trying to get it pressed in. Be sure the tip of the dipstick is smooth without any burrs.

 

I ran into this issue on my Dakota after swapping the cracked Magnum heads with the motor in the truck. I bent the tube down slightly and now it works fine. Joe and Dale are spot on.

 

Oil pan is original, not replaced. The end of the dipstick is smooth with no burrs. Bending sounds plausible, not sure what direction to bend it though, I assume in the same direction as the tube bend, but once done the stick will only be able to go in one way and won't be able to be rotated.

 

Flat steel (the stick) only bends easily across one plane. Get the wide part of the stick parallel to the bend in the tube, and it should work. It came out, so it obviously fits.

 

Did it come out easy ?

 

That's how mine is, and I suspect how it's designed to work due to the bend. As matt said, it came out so it will go back, you just need to find the correct orientation.

 

Did you get this resolved? ( I see it was 3 years ago.) I’m having exactly the same scenario with my’71 Oldsmobile Cutlass.