While in Menards, noticed an "end cap" with Valvoline conventional 10W30 & 10W40 for $14.49/5 qt. jug.

 

If that is a good price then buy it. Every oil brand is pretty much the same. If you want to do right by your Olds just make sure you change your oil and filter regularly. The brand makes no difference, even if it's Wal Mart brand!

 

It might sound lazy, but I let Mr. Tire change mine. With a coupon, they will change my oil, filter and rotate the tires for $20. That's cheaper than me doing it all myself.

 

Only thing wrong with that is they used cheap recycled oil and the poorest quality filter available. Plus, does it include a lube job? No thanks! I'll do it myself!

 

Occasionally when the cold sets in and I don’t want to change oil myself I have a local place change the oil in my Grand Marquis but my only complaint is they do use cheap filters.

 

Not to mention a stripped out oil plug!

 

I don't know what they are using in Scranton, but they use Pennzoil at mine.

 

I have always changed my own oil, it gives me a chance to look everything over. I have found problems before they broke or failed. Our 3 daily drivers have 101k, 174k, and 291k so they all need to be watched. I have always used whichever oil is cheapest as long as its not recycled. Family Farm and Home have commonly used viscosities for 10.00 a 5 qt. jug quite often. I have been using a stash of 15w40 diesel oil in the Olds' because of the high zinc. I also have bought 5w30 Shell at Menards before for 1.79 a qt.

 

Your information is misinformed & incorrect. Not all oils are the same.

 

While we are on the subject, how do you find out the zinc content in the oil?

 

As far as oil goes, what the hell is Synthetic Blend anyhow? To me that means that they recycled the oil not knowing whether its Synthetic or Regular! That's what they are using now at those stations. I'll stick with my 10/30 Valvoline!

 

Negative guy. Even though there have been threads about this almost as often as Jaunty75s threads about driverless cars... infinity times. I am still not convinced there is a "major difference" between motor oils available at parts stores / Wal-Mart / Target. At least, there isn't enough of a difference for it to matter for your car. Unless you're driving a Bugatti Veyron, Lamborghini or Ferrari.

 

Is synthetic oil slipperiness good enough for flat tappet lifters?

 

Don't think there is a difference? Back in 1973 I bought a new Charger! In order to get the 5 year. 50,000 mile warranty I had to use Quaker State oil and have it changed at the dealers! After I hit 40k, the motor was clicking like a typewriter. When I removed the filler cap, it had gunk all around it's interior! Same with the valve covers! Filled with sludge! Never again!

 

I've been using Quaker State in my 71 Cutlass since 73 when I bought it. It has 130,000 miles on it now. I put a timing chain on it several years ago and it was clean as a whistle in side. I have also used Quaker State in my everyday drivers that are nearing 200,000 miles. No issues.

 

synthetic blend is regular oil with some synthetic added.if you go synthetic you want full synthetic like mobil 1.but i have heard if you have an older engine to not use it as it will clean out all the old built up oil and develop oil leaks from all seals and gaskets,wether this is true or not i don't know.my vw diesel jetta has 670,000 miles and i have been using mobil 1 since i got the car with 250,000.i go 10,000 miles between oil changes "factory recommended change interval"it uses about a quart in 6k miles and almost another to 10k then i change.been like this since i got it.

 

You are confusing facts for negativity. Others will read your post then mine & hopefully I have saved them from believing your statement since it is false.


It is well established that not all oils are the same whether YOU believe it or not. I respect your right to ignore facts and live in ignorant bliss.


Have a nice day and enjoy your Olds.

 

Lubricity is not the concern and not all synthetics will protect a flat tappet cam. That is why there is products from Brad Penn & Joe Gibbs and others that are designed and formulated to protect your cam with the proper ZDDP content. There are also conventional oils that will do the job. It is not a question of synthetic vs conventional but a question of the oil formulation.

 

Here's some info about engine oils and their properties:

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/