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Updating fuel lines for EFI ?? CutlassEFI.....

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Old May 19, 2011 | 02:19 AM
  #41  
garys 68's Avatar
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From: St Louis, MO
Damn, you should have picked up a tank with the pump and external wiring connected. I called ahead and they left it all intact for $90. Then you would only need the $120 B-LT1 Fuel Pump Assembly. Call the yard and see if they still have a pump/sender assembly with the wiring connected.
The bulkhead connector pugs into the pump housing, like I said, I asked for that with the pump.
Racetronix also sells the harness, but if you're wiring your own Ls motor, you can probably make your own with 12g wire, a relay, and fuse for under $10.
Old May 19, 2011 | 03:09 AM
  #42  
Aceshigh's Avatar
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I asked before leaving.

They said the nearest yard only had 120,000 mile pumps and they wanted
too much for them. I have no problem buying them new. I'd almost rather
just to be totally assured they won't fail soon. Thanks

I didn't realize this picture you posted before showed the bulkhead connector location.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...t/DSCN0320.jpg

Originally Posted by garys 68
Racetronix also sells the harness, but if you're wiring your own Ls motor, you can probably make your own with 12g wire, a relay, and fuse for under $10.
Yeah, I can do one cheap. I have a whole kit of Weatherpack connectors still.
But that weather proof relay is the dinger. Those aren't cheap.

Last edited by Aceshigh; May 19, 2011 at 04:06 AM.
Old May 19, 2011 | 06:47 AM
  #43  
garys 68's Avatar
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From: St Louis, MO
You'll be replacing the pump and intank harness, so who cares how many miles. That only leaves the gauge sender to wear out.
Btw, my relays are inside the car with the fuses.
Old May 19, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #44  
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From: Mansfield, Ma
You're better off getting a new sender. The tend to get very inacurate over time. Plus it's not uncommon for them to get damaged when they get removed and installed enough times.

The external wiring is basically just a power and ground. The power should be run through a relay and only hot with ignition.

The intank wiring gets tricky. Most aftermarket pumps come with a generic harness, and the 2 grounds need to be spliced together to form a single ground. That way it can plug in to the sender right.

The entire setup shouldn't cost more than $250 considering how cheap relays and wiring is. The sender from Rockauto is going to be the best source, and the intank pump can be had for as little as $80 complete, if you go with a Carter pump from pepboys. If you need more gph than go with the walbro unt for about $100.

Another idea is that GM sells the sender with the pump and harness and all for a few hundred if you just want a plug and play setup.

I have an aux fuse block from a '95 if you need to know the fuse or relay ratings to make sure you have the right size.
Old May 19, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by garys 68
Btw, my relays are inside the car with the fuses.
Where did you route the power from the tank pump to the interior and then to the 12V+ source ???

My other car has the waterproof 40 amp pump relay on the firewall.
It was fed directly from the battery, but I can't remember if there was a fuse inline or not.

Originally Posted by bammax
I have an aux fuse block from a '95 if you need to know the fuse or relay ratings to make sure you have the right size.
Yeah, that would be cool. Gary what size inline fuse did you use for the pump ??

I'm only considering the Walbro 255 (USA) or the Bosch 420 (EUR) which is really a 044
I already have a Bosch 420 in my other car, but they are almost 2x the cost.

Almost every comparison and performance street application uses these 2 pumps.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/fuelin...-420-pump.html


Last edited by Aceshigh; May 19, 2011 at 12:34 PM.
Old May 19, 2011 | 05:10 PM
  #46  
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From: St Louis, MO
I put a new harness in the car. An 8 g wire from the alt, battery, starter junction feeds the fuse panel in the original position. My relays feed directly off the fuse panel through an extra set of fuses to the horn, pump, and 2 fan relays (I should have got a panel with more circuts).
I think I have a 20 amp for the pump fed by 12g wire.
Old May 20, 2011 | 10:17 AM
  #47  
Aceshigh's Avatar
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I'm debating just buying the whole $200 Racetronix setup and calling it a day Gary.
If you say it's good, I think I'll roll with it.

BTW what new harness did you put in your 442 ??
I installed an American Autowire Hwy 22 kit in my Camaro, which IMO was the best I've seen.
Just curious what you used, and what you thought of it.

I might rip the harness out and upgrade while I'm at it.
Old May 20, 2011 | 04:40 PM
  #48  
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From: St Louis, MO
Bought an ebay generic harness. Good enough for stock wiring, but you'll need more than a dozen circuits. In addition, the dual fans overwhelmed the stock fuse panel copper ribbon fues holders. Go big everywhere with the wiring.
Old May 21, 2011 | 09:28 AM
  #49  
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Trying to find a relay rating is next to impossible.

The stock fuel pump circuit has a 15a fuse on the power and is controlled by a 5 pin black relay mounted in the underhood fuse panel. It's an omron relay with a part number 12077866
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