davebw31

Diesel becomes a problem only from alga growth. If the fuel is clean it should have no trouble flowing through a gas type filter, especially when diluted.

I use unleaded non-ethanol 93 (at $3.25 /gal) and is cheaper than 110 race gas ($8.99/gal). Due to the fact I live close to the gulf coast non-ethanol fuel both mid grade and premium is available at several gas stations in the area. I also have retarded the timing from 12* to 8* to assure no detonation (my compression is 11:27 to 1:00).

jfb

hey like a few have said maybe gasoline in texas is formulated for the weather a little better. I did not drive this car down there so I cannot say. the gasoline in this part of the country might be formulated different and 3 manufacturers backed this fact up which are major additive manufacturers. if someone has personal experience with a product to stop or slow this problem I am all ears. I was driving cars when lead was still in the gas but not a lot. I guarantee you that my daily drivers where not kept up like my olds sometimes. I am open to suggestions to stop or slow pun intended these problems.

oldcutlass

Do you have a fuel return line back to the tank?

midnightleadfoot

Todays fuel is not mixed for our cars.. the ethanol is one issue the summer "blend" takes it to the next level..
Todays cars have a fuel system that loops the fuel with a return line.. So cool fuel is always moving though the system.. keeping it cool.


Some like the vette have the returnless system but the lines are not run near the exhaust and if so are heat wrapped, and the injectors don't hold a bowl of fuel to get heated.
Best thing I ever did to my other car was add a return line and regulator so the pump kept the fuel moving.. It did nothing for heat soak when you stop and park and boil the fuel out of the bowls.. but that isn't hard to fix.


My next vehicle that I add the return line to.. (c-10) I'll put a regulator( a controlled leak, i.e. a jet )after the fuel bowl.. allowing it to keep the fuel moving through the bowl.. And see how this does..

jfb

thanks for the reply I have a return line and all parts are covered to keep heat off it plus a cool can to chill the gas right before the carb. I have a aftermarket high volume fuel pump and excellent clean filters. all lines are insulated to keep heat down. I agree with you about todays gas properties and have been told that a few times. going with a electric pump is not a option now the mechanical is fairly new. I am looking for a additive that will stabilize the gas like lead use to and of course someones experience with it. I have covered all bases and otherwise the car runs and drives excellent except for the evaporation issue. I drive decent distances and do not want to have a real problem after sitting for quite a few days and the gas cap is also vented. I check the carb for gas after a few days in the heat and it is dry. cranking for extended periods with the starter which is aftermarket could leave me stranded a long way out without a decent jump and yes I keep it in top tune every year race etc. todays gas needs something to stabilize it and I am open for suggestions to products my older carbureted cars in my youth had leaded gas and no problems and less upkeep on them of course as a real daily drivers year round but were talking late eighties gas or early nineties and minimal lead.

OldsAl

We are really lucky up here in Vancouver BC. We can buy 94 octane right at the pump from Chevron. I can also buy low lead 100 octane Aviation fuel from a local airport not far away. But the 94 runs great in my higher compression motors. My W30 has 10.6 to 1 cc'd compression and I run 18 degrees of initial timing. 34 total. No problems. No ethanol in the 94 either👍Al

oldcutlass

Thats it Al, just rub it in...

OldsAl

Oops sorry. Just drive up here with your own gas hauling trailer! Actually Av gas solves a lot of problems too. We don't have the high temperatures as some of our southern friends. However I still have to change to slightly leaner secondary metering rods once we get into July and August.

jfb

man no ethanol and eastern sea air you are lucky and av gas to boot. I am still open for suggestions for additives since I am not so lucky around Chicago with epa formulated gas for pollution etc. I would run lead additive but have seen what lead does to valve pockets and seats and do not now how long it takes to build up, I have no technical data either. So the question stands what will stabilize ethanol gas those long trips are fast approaching in summer months.

OldsAl

Personally I would buy some race gas and mix it in with the sub par fuel. You will make more power, could probably put a little more timing into the motor and your and your car will be a lot happier. Al

davebw31

I use nothing but Sta-bil Marine Fuel Conditioner. I buy it by the case through Amazon.

Locally I have access both 89 Mid-grade and 93 Premium non-ethanol, but is expensive, mid $2.89 and Premium $3.29 per gallon. I now use the 93 octane non-ethanol in my 70' F85 W31 only because it has 11.50 to 1 compression ratio and a high compression (11 to 1) 1984 Honda CB 650 Nighthawk. I still use the Sta-Bil treatment.

In everything else, generators, chainsaw, lawn equipment, I use ethanol fuel, but I treat with Sta-Bil on all my vehicles except my primary car that I drive all the time, a 97 Honda Accord EX.

jfb

is stabil marine working well for you maybe it has a heavier body to it. I called stabil and they did not mention it but if it is working in the real world it is worth a shot. so overall how is the gas in your cutlass reacting to it? please reply I am taking a hundred and 50 mile trip in july to a quiet place with no help around if it acts up and evaporates and then of course the cranking after 3 or 4 days I could be stuck and jeporadize my job and get stuck there with no help state parks are not always the way to go when hunting wild boars.

davebw31

jfb: I use sta-bil as a "fuel conditioner" and to "stabilize the ethanol's" corrosive properties. Marine Stal-bil is better for water in the fuel, helps control corrosion in metal tanks, and helps neoprene fuel line hoses last longer. We have three gas stations in a 15 mile radius who sell marine fuel (mid grade 89 or premium 93, unleaded and non ethanol), user's do not use Sta-bil. I use the premium marine fuel in my 70' F85 W-31 only, with timing retarded 4* @ 750 rpm to 8* adv. (factory timing is 12* adv.) with regular Sta-bil due to the fact the car sets in my garage a lot and I probably only put 200 miles on the clock.

jfb

thanks and congrats for working for oldsmobile I had 2 friends and there dad who worked for olds until closure who lived in lansing. the stories of parts plus experimental parts were astounding. I can see that you must have a lot of experience and stories you should just share them it will light up a lot of souls and keep the word alive. I was the generation after you guys and learned from guys like you. the thrills and sensations live with you forever look at garlits,mondello rip, dick miller and force. need I say more.

jimbr70

I don't have this issue and I've been driving in 103 degree heat this week. I do add Motor Medic lead substitute to every tank, but maybe the 2 barrel is doing me a favor.