How much better are the true rollers?

I found this chain for $40 from RockAuto. The price is very appealing, but it's not a roller type.

http://cloyes.mycarparts.net/product...n_id=444700851

Is it worth the extra cash for a true roller timing set for a stock engine? How much longer do the rollers last before wearing and stretching? I am thinking of replacing mine this summer, but am on a budget (always ). The OEM style chain would save me some cash, making purchasing the rest of the stuff I need easier, coolant, oil, gaskets, etc.

Opinions?

Thanks.

 

For the Delta I don't think a std timing chain will be an issue! It's reall up to you.

 

These standard OEM style replacements, they have all metal gear teeth though, don't they? I can't see Cloyes trying to imitate GM's nylon gear tooth idea.

I'm sure it'd be better than what I have anyway, I don't know it's history. I just hope it's not stock still...

How many miles do you think I could expect from that C-3082 chain before stretching and poor performance returns?

 

I just changed the factory chain and sprockets on my 68 400 engine with 80000 miles and let me tell you I could not believe how stretched the chain was and all the cracks in the nylon cam gear.
How it never failed on me I'll never know cause I do drive the car kinda hard. So glad I changed it when I did.

 

I expect to be shocked when I pull my timing cover off too.

What replacement did you use?

 

Do a water pump, too, as your already there, and $20 now is well worth the labor, very soon!
I always do them together!!

 

Definitely plan on doing the water pump too! I hate taking things apart twice.

Another question... if I pull the fuel pump, can I see enough into the timing cover to see if I still have the stock chain or how worn the one on there is? Not sure how much can be seen from that spot. Thanks!

 

I used parts that I got from Cutlassefi I bought a roller cam and lifters and timing chain. They are made by P.B.M they make all of Erson's stuff and some other companies as well...

 

Cloyles is a very good set, not plastic.

 

I bought a Cloyes timing set this week from Rock Auto for my 355 build. Don't forget about the 5% discount code they currently have.

 

Pull the cap and see how much you can move the lower pulley before the rotor moves - 2 inches is too much!

 

I'd just use the standard Melling replacement set. It degreed just fine on my wheel.

 

the link belt style is fine for a stock engine freshening... the double roller is a great set up but could cause interference with the fuel pump arm. besides, with the factory cam and valve springs you really don't need the double roller.

cloyes, melling, and speed pro are all good... i like comp cams too...

 

I will try that. How much movement is normal for a fairly new chain?

I may still see if the chain is visible at all through the fuel pump hole. Just so I can see if maybe it's a roller or some other hint that it's at least not stock.

I remember reading about interference with the fuel pump arm somewhere. With my engine being completely stock I think I'll stick with Cloyes OEM equivalent. Can't beat the price either.

Thanks for the input.

 

About 1/4" for new!!
Guarantee you need a chain, at those miles!
A double row chain won't interfere with the fuel pump arm!

 

Bryan,

I found this recently on amazon. it's the 3082, 45 bucks free shipping. it says it doesnt fit our engines, but i believe cloyes.com WAY more than amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Cloyes-C3082-3...5883181&sr=8-1

If there is a general concensus that the 3082 is a good chain, i'm going to buy it as well for my 350.

 

I would just go to your local autoparts store.

 

I am going to go with that one too. Check RockAuto, I think they only want $40. Not sure who's shipping would be more though.

 

Rickman, are you talking about 2 inches movement on the outside of the crank pulley? Or where?

Here is a photo I took after performing this test. It takes about an inch on the very outside of the crank pulley in either direction before my rotor begins to turn. What do you think, moderately worn? I wrapped some bailing wire around the lower radiator hose and made a pointer to the pulley, then marked where I began and where the rotor began to move.

 

Agreed,

Amazon shipping is free though for anything over 25 bucks

 

ive ordered odds and ends thru amazon and found that the shipping time varies but if you are flexible with your timeline it's a good way to save a few $$'s...

Rickman, some of the beefier double roller chains on the market will interfere with the fuel pump arm...

 

Oh cool, didn't know that.

 

Which one did you end up going with? I'm still on the fence... ANd not sure if i have the tools to do this myself...

 

I haven't ordered one yet actually.

I find this to be odd timing , but my truck, which is my daily driver, ended up needing a water pump and timing belt. So I just ordered those parts last night. They are a bit more costly than the Olds parts (with pump, belt, idler pulleys, tensioner) so I am going to have to put the Olds timing chain on the back burner temporarily..

I'd much rather do the Olds, it is much easier... I hate the timing belt driven water pumps (early Toyota V6), but the truck was due for a timing belt again anyway, the water pump leaking is just making me do it sooner than I expected. It does have 204K miles, last done around 100K.

I am almost certainly going to get the Cloyes C-3082 when the time comes though.

 

Around year 1900 did some german engineers an evaluation of the chain made of metal pieces and ruled that construction out and said:
That construction would not be an success in any mecanical application what so ever.
It simply needs more tension to transmit power than an roller chain. And, in my opinion, it worns out rapidly in comparation with roller chain.
Sadly to say the construction was cheap and it lived on.