thinking of buying a 72 Cutlass
#1
thinking of buying a 72 Cutlass
I am new to this site and somewhat new to Oldsmobiles (I owned a 99 cutlass a few years back). I have a guy I did an installation for the phone company for that wants to sell a 72 cutlass, "numbers matching" 350 4 barrell, auto-- 70,xxx miles, frame off resto in 99, 4 disk brake conversion, new 17" rims(magnum 500's though) magnaflow dual exhaust, new red and white pleather interior----- hmmmmmm- said a whole bunch else but cant remember right now. The guy did claim the only rust on the whole car is a dime sized rust spot on the hood where a rock hit it. Anyways, all that for $4000???? does that sound about right??
I have done a little searching for the VIN locations seems to me there is alot of info on this site for the 442/ 455 engine but not alot of 350 specific info-
I can assume there is a vin/body number inside the door jambs- and on the dash
then theres a tag above the #1 spark plug on the drivers side of the engine???
the last six digits of the engine # should match the last six of the dash right
if I am wrong any help from you guys would be appreciated, when I buy either this one or someone elses actual numbers matching car I will be spending alot more time on this site and working on my Olds.
thanks for your time
I have done a little searching for the VIN locations seems to me there is alot of info on this site for the 442/ 455 engine but not alot of 350 specific info-
I can assume there is a vin/body number inside the door jambs- and on the dash
then theres a tag above the #1 spark plug on the drivers side of the engine???
the last six digits of the engine # should match the last six of the dash right
if I am wrong any help from you guys would be appreciated, when I buy either this one or someone elses actual numbers matching car I will be spending alot more time on this site and working on my Olds.
thanks for your time
#2
The vin will be on the dash and a corresponding tag will be under the hood on the drivers side of the cowl. If I remember right you will have the body number on the cowl tag as well as various codes for paint color interior color and basic trim package. I'm new to olds and may be incorrect. someone else will jump in if I'm wrong, but I hate waiting for answers, and I am pretty sure this is accurate. The number on the head should be about 1 to 1.5 " high on the lower front corner, if you look in the tech section you will find info on that head wich is identified by that number. As I understand Olds stans alone in NOT taging their engines to specific vin's or bodies. I'm not sure where the numbers would be but you can track the casting date of the block and compare it to the build date of the car. if the blockk was cast within 3 mos? prior to the cars actual date of manufacture it is likely the correct engine, assuming all other info and parts correspond. Give it time and ppl who are alot more familiar with oldsmobiles will confirm or put you on the right track if i am inacurate. good luck and welcome to the site p.s. that sounds like a good find and a fair price edit engine is identified by the numbers on the deck just above the water pump
#3
I know there is a pad on the left side of the block beneath the head which will show the 6 digit serial number of the vehicle. This should match the numbers on the dash tag. If the pad is blank, it means it is a warranty replacement engine. I can't remember precisely where the pad is, but just look around down there and you'll find it. You'll probably have to wipe a bunch of dirt and grime off to read it.
Chumley
Chumley
#4
I am new to this site and somewhat new to Oldsmobiles (I owned a 99 cutlass a few years back). I have a guy I did an installation for the phone company for that wants to sell a 72 cutlass, "numbers matching" 350 4 barrell, auto-- 70,xxx miles, frame off resto in 99, 4 disk brake conversion, new 17" rims(magnum 500's though) magnaflow dual exhaust, new red and white pleather interior----- hmmmmmm- said a whole bunch else but cant remember right now. The guy did claim the only rust on the whole car is a dime sized rust spot on the hood where a rock hit it. Anyways, all that for $4000???? does that sound about right??
I have done a little searching for the VIN locations seems to me there is alot of info on this site for the 442/ 455 engine but not alot of 350 specific info-
I can assume there is a vin/body number inside the door jambs- and on the dash
then theres a tag above the #1 spark plug on the drivers side of the engine???
the last six digits of the engine # should match the last six of the dash right
if I am wrong any help from you guys would be appreciated, when I buy either this one or someone elses actual numbers matching car I will be spending alot more time on this site and working on my Olds.
thanks for your time
I have done a little searching for the VIN locations seems to me there is alot of info on this site for the 442/ 455 engine but not alot of 350 specific info-
I can assume there is a vin/body number inside the door jambs- and on the dash
then theres a tag above the #1 spark plug on the drivers side of the engine???
the last six digits of the engine # should match the last six of the dash right
if I am wrong any help from you guys would be appreciated, when I buy either this one or someone elses actual numbers matching car I will be spending alot more time on this site and working on my Olds.
thanks for your time
#5
that was my impression too joe- the guy is a little ehhhmm strange. But I know he has more money than he knows what to do with. He had a 2008 Z06 and a Jag R type on the other side of his multi-million dollar Metro boston mansion that he reffered to as his "shack close to work". He is picking me up today at my house in his Z06 to drive me up to his lake house in winnepasaki(new hampshire) to take a look at the thing, he claims he just wants to make room in his garage for his Jag. He says he has owned a few 442's(then get a regular cutlass?) and lots of other GM cars, who knows this thing could be a bondo bucket, and this guy just wants to get rid of a headache. But who knows maybe he's a nice guy and just wants to give a car he doesnt use much a good home---- yeah right.
any suggestions for quick things I could check with no tools to see if this is a good deal or not- other than the obvious stuff(piles of bondo, matching numbers, ect)
any suggestions for quick things I could check with no tools to see if this is a good deal or not- other than the obvious stuff(piles of bondo, matching numbers, ect)
#6
For 4 grand, I don't think I'd get too concerned about #'s matching unless you are looking for a resto project. This sounds like it could be a good buy on a nice driver. there is another member who was looking at 3grand for a rolling chassis from AZ, granted it would be a clean shell, but a shell none the less. Are you looking for something that you and your family can enjoy, or an investment? As long as it is straight clean solid and functional, I would give the car serious consideration. This is assuming you apreciate the car as a car. IMHO origionality really only counts on the "factory hot rods" that people are trying to retire on, or possably sentimental value. The money is yours, and the car could be. Value is entirely in the eye of the beholder. If the man has more money than God, I would assume this is just a toy to him. Meaning you could verry well be in the right place at the right time. If this is any reassurance I paid $1000 for my project that barely ran, and did not have reverse. I wanted to build the car my way, and this one had the right combination of parts. The shell was not as good as I thought once I goy it up in the air where I could get a good look at it, but still feel comfortable with the purchase. I have heard of others paying more for less, and vice versa. What are you looking for out of the car?
#7
First, welcome to our site. Second, from his description in your last post it seems he is the kind of person that likes to show off his money and what it can buy. If that is true, he may not be dishonest at all and the car could very well be worth the 4K just in the work put into it (wheels, interior, etc) like Joe has said. However, a car is never worth as much or as easy to sell as when it is in original condition. The minute you put custom paint on it, the minute you put non-stock items on it, it becomes harder to re-sell. That being said, if the car is in good shape, and you think it is worth it and you can get the money then there will be two happy people at the end of the day. That is what it is all about. Good luck.
#8
i am more looking for a good driving straight car rhat I dont have to put alot of time and more money into. The way the guy decribes it it sure sounds like what i am looking for. Probably gotta get rid of the Mustang rims soon though, but other than that it sounds like a good deal to me. Who knows, I mean this guy is eccentric as they come- he's got one of those really strange looking lincoln zephyr things- those arent cheap either. So who knows- hopefully I'll be posting some pic's of my new (old) car that I stole for $4000 off some loaded guy-- have to make sure I put the whole story in the How did you get your car thread
#9
holy crap- I just looked up what a 1936 lincoln zephyr costs----- $250,000 was the cheapest one I could find. more money than god is right. I'm gonna see if the guy wants to be my kids godfather
#10
I'm originally from central MA (Shrewsbury to be exact) so I know that any car that's lived in New England will have significant bodywork. Assume it's been patched and check the quality of the work.
#11
He is picking me up today at my house in his Z06 to drive me up to his lake house in winnepasaki(new hampshire) to take a look at the thing
I wouldn't take a drive with the Pope; let alone some guy I just met, to a "lake house." Sounds to me like this guy might want to take advantage of you... if you know what I mean.
#13
I bought it, and it is pretty much what the guy said it was- maybe a couple of notches lower but a great deal for $4000 imo- and a couple of other guys that know more about cars than I do. Anyways, california car=hardly any rust whatsoever. The 350's numbers do match the body(thanks for the help guys). ehhhh, runs great- flew down I93 for an hour and a half at 75mph no problem at all- just a little wobble in the front end- guy told me it would probably need an alignment. They were not magnum 500 rims, they are 17" american racing torque thrust's, they look ok- but its not really the kind of look i am into. ehhm couple of surprises I didnt know- original ac car, still has all the hardware just needs recharged. It has power windows. And it is a Cutlass Supreme. The seats were professionally redone, but the rug has been replaced, but a pretty half assed job. a few paint chips here and there, some bubbles starting to show through the paint where the vinyl top meets the body at the c pillar. And Im sure some of you guys will cringe--- its been lowered 2"-- really not my thing either, But all in all not a bad deal I reckon.
I will try to get pic's together tomorrow
I will try to get pic's together tomorrow
#16
I don't know about it looking almost like a big car, but I'm with him. Let me know what you want for the rolling stock if you do replace it, cuz that is close to what I am looking to do with mine. Congrats on the steal!. Welcome to the fambily
#17
they are american racing torque thrust 2's, $269 a piece from lmp performance. I dont know- maybe I just like the classic look a little better. I dont know if originals would even look right on it now cause its lowered? I do like the originals more- if anyones from near me and has a set to trade for these i might be willing- kinda have to see the car with them on.
#19
Ouch! they really stab you for those don't they? I have originals but avoid your part of the states like the plague. Too many tolls! That and freight rates suck once you get east of Ohio or west of the Mississippi river, unless you are going to Texas.
#20
I think thats pretty sweet looking too. I personally am not into the lowered, modern, Chip Foose-esck "Hot Rods" but I think thats pretty sharp looking. Sounds like is would be a very fun cruiser, maybe hop it up alittle but keep it a cruiser. Hope you can get us some better pictures soon!
#22
sorry for the double reply but it wouldnt let me load up 5 pictures at a time before.
Anyways, what do you guys think-- I dont think I got a steal of a deal or anything, but I think for $4000 I got a pretty solid driver with only some small issues needing to be taken care of
Anyways, what do you guys think-- I dont think I got a steal of a deal or anything, but I think for $4000 I got a pretty solid driver with only some small issues needing to be taken care of
#24
I did appreciate your concern for my safety, but other than the guy doing 140mph passing 5 cars at a time- the ride was uneventful
#27
cutlass
I think you got a great deal in my opinion.Looks to be in nice condition and if it were for sale in my area it would of sold for double what you got it for.Cutlass's are a rare specimen in the bay area and often go for more than what you're willing to pay for them.......Good find!
#28
Very nice car, I would drive it. The wheel tire combo isn't bad at all, very tasteful. I would recommend that you keep an eye on the bubbled paint at the C pillar, that can become a serious problem, or be an indicator of one; especially moisture under your vinyl top. Keep an eye on that.
#29
#30
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Beautiful looking car. I don't mind the wheels that much even though I'm a traditionalist. Matador red?
Only thing that doesn't look right is the two tone interior. Too bad it wasn't redone as original. But, can't expect that if the car's been lowered and modified. Frame off restoration usually means exactly that: remove the frame, rebuild/refinish everything to as new. Guess you weren't really misled since you say it was a frame off RESTO MOD. BTW, whoever did the lowering did a nice job, it's not all that noticeable till you look close. The car seems to hug the ground more. Any bottoming out on the ride back? Did they have to tub the rear wheel well or do the 17's fit ok?
Only thing that doesn't look right is the two tone interior. Too bad it wasn't redone as original. But, can't expect that if the car's been lowered and modified. Frame off restoration usually means exactly that: remove the frame, rebuild/refinish everything to as new. Guess you weren't really misled since you say it was a frame off RESTO MOD. BTW, whoever did the lowering did a nice job, it's not all that noticeable till you look close. The car seems to hug the ground more. Any bottoming out on the ride back? Did they have to tub the rear wheel well or do the 17's fit ok?
#31
Sheesh, I'm trying to get my 72' Cutlass to look like that now and I'm $15K into it. Looks like you got a good buy man! I think that lowered look with those rims is pretty cool. A 72' Cutlass isn't necessarily the most sought after Olds, but they can look great with the right touch. Heck, if I were you I'd save some $$, throw on the ram air hood, spoiler, sport mirrors, and 442 grilles. That would be a pretty mean machine when you were done!
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