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Was thinking that a temp gauge should be good to have in the -65 98 when driving in city traffic . But where should
the best place be to have the sender if i would like to keep the original sender / lights setup ? Have seen
upper radiator hose been used , or would hose from engine to heater core work better ?
I have a SW tempgauge in my -65 88 but there is the original sender removed.
Was thinking that a temp gauge should be good to have in the -65 98 when driving in city traffic . But where should
the best place be to have the sender if i would like to keep the original sender / lights setup ? Have seen
upper radiator hose been used , or would hose from engine to heater core work better ?
I have a SW tempgauge in my -65 88 but there is the original sender removed.
I tried both and ended up with the 'Radiator Hose Temp Sensor Adapter' on the upper radiator hose. I tried making my own adapter to use on the heater core hose but it wouldn't read the temperature correctly because the sensor wasn't deep enough inside the flow of the water.
OK, assuming you still want to go forward with this.
Originally Posted by GCH
But where should the best place be to have the sender if i would like to keep the original sender / lights setup ? Have seen
upper radiator hose been used, or would hose from engine to heater core work better?
The ONLY place for the sending unit is where the original is because the sender MUST be immersed in the flowing coolant. You can put one in a radiator hose, and I've done this, but it's not perfect because it relies on the thermostat working properly. If the thermostat were ever to become stuck closed, the sensor would never show an increase in temperature while the engine might actually be overheating. Of course, you'd notice the temperature gauge not rising, but by the time you do, the damage to the engine might have already been done.
The heater hoses are not good, either, because coolant flow will stop should the heater core ever become clogged. If a clog occurred, the sensor would show a low temperature that would likely be quite different from the actual engine temperature.
Unless you wear both a belt AND suspenders, there is no reason to need both a gauge AND the original indicator light. Use the original sender location to get an accurate temperature reading, and live without the light.
Why do you think you need one? People drove '65 98s in traffic back in 1965 without needing a temperature gauge.
It have happend one time that the hot lamp have come on in slow cruising and many long stops but we are not
driving so anymore. Luckaly we could park the car immediately to cool down.We have now curtains around the
radiator to force the air thru and have flushed the system several times.
Usual city traffic are no problem at all but a gauge would be nice to se if something going on.
But you can se in the video after 0.29 seconds that we just drive thru the city to another location. After 19.24 there
are a typical long stop with waiting cars.
OK, assuming you still want to go forward with this.
The ONLY place for the sending unit is where the original is because the sender MUST be immersed in the flowing coolant. You can put one in a radiator hose, and I've done this, but it's not perfect because it relies on the thermostat working properly. If the thermostat were ever to become stuck closed, the sensor would never show an increase in temperature while the engine might actually be overheating. Of course, you'd notice the temperature gauge not rising, but by the time you do, the damage to the engine might have already been done.
The heater hoses are not good, either, because coolant flow will stop should the heater core ever become clogged. If a clog occurred, the sensor would show a low temperature that would likely be quite different from the actual engine temperature.
Unless you wear both a belt AND suspenders, there is no reason to need both a gauge AND the original indicator light. Use the original sender location to get an accurate temperature reading, and live without the light.
Ok yes better to skip the lights and have a accurate temp reading , thanks for answers.
Of you install a temp gauge, remember this.
With a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and a 15 PSI radiator cap, the coolant isn't going to boil until it reaches 268 degrees F.
I wouldn't worry until the gauge reads 260 or so.
Pressurized cooling systems operate at temperatures much above 212 degrees, the boiling point of water at sea level.
Thanks for answer Charlie yes i always use a mix of antifreeze and also a 16 psi radiator cap. The gauge
that i have in the 88 have readings in both F and C. I think previous owner in Ten Mile Tennessee must have
the car stored without any antifreeze because of all the rust in the engine , have used Thermocure and flushed
the system several times so it´s better now. Here is a pic of radiator fluid when the car arrived to Sweden :
