So i need some help with my transmission. 1967 turbo 400. Is it possible to put a regular torque convertor in a switch pitch? I dont know if the TC is a switch pitch or not. I do not hear a click when i turn on the key and shift it through the gears. I did clean take apart and clean the kick down switch several years ago. Is there a way to know if it has a switch pitch TC in it without taking it out. If it is a switch pitch and the swicth pitch part is not working, will it still work as a regular TC? I know nothing about these transmissions.
Thanks

Steve

 

The switch on the fire wall has 2 switches built in to it. One switch operates the passing gear and is only closed at wot in conjunction with the second switch that operates the torque converter that is closed both at idle and at/near wot. You cannot put a standard converter in a SP trans without changing the pump.

 

If the switch on the firewall has three wires, it is for a switch pitch trans. You won't hear anything "click" when shifting through the gears. The switch works on throttle position only. The converter solenoid is energized both at idle and at wide open throttle. The downshift solenoid is only energized at wide open throttle. A test light at the trans connector end of the wires will also tell you if the system is providing power to the trans.

 

Hey thanks guys, that helps alot.


Steve

 

If it has a two prong fitting you can attach a 12v source (9v battery would probably work to although I have never done that) to the top spade connector which is the S/P and you can audibly hear the solenoid click when energized. If there is no click then it's probably one of three things. 1) the solenoid is defective 2) The wire is detached from the solenoid or 3) you don't have a S/P tranny.This is with the car off.
When not energized the S/P convertor will be in low stall all the time which would act like a stock type convertor. Doesn't hurt anything if not used.

 

Thanks Trip that also helps alot!

 

My 67 has no low end *****, and I have yet to fix it. It is either:

1. My timing is so borked it's a dog.
2. The previous owner put a really stupid big overlap cam in it.
3. Or the converter is stuck in high.

 

Can't be stuck in high stall unless energized all the time, that is unlikely. The default is low stall. I'm not sure if the 67 used the same set up as a 66. 66's were energized at idle and out to about 1/4 throttle(ish) to stop creep at stop lights and to also allow quicker acceleration that the higher stall provided. In the mid ranges the stall went back to low and once again went to high stall at WOT.

 

Actually, it can. If a piece of debris is holding the solenoid valve open, the converter will be pressurized all the time.

 

But that won't make it a dog. Timing and a mismatched cam maybe.