Storage and winterizing
#1
Storage and winterizing
I've searched all the discussion groups and haven't found the answer to my questions. Will be storing my 72 Cutlass for the first time for 6 months in a attached garage and temps could hit freezing. I will have it covered but what
other precautions should I do. Fuel stabilizer for sure but any one have any other ideas.
Thanks,
Steve
other precautions should I do. Fuel stabilizer for sure but any one have any other ideas.
Thanks,
Steve
#2
I would check the freeze point of the antifreeze, depending on how old your garage floor is, you may want to down a vapor barrier like plastic, cardboard, old carpet etc. Also if you have rodent issues some say moth ***** or Bounce sheets.
Others will say to put car up on jack stands, flat spoting tires or just relaxing the suspension.
My personal check list is Oil change, coolant check or change, wash and wax entire car, put some nice smelling something inside the car and roll up the windows, Fill tank and add Stabil and run it for at least five min. before final shut down, last step is to shoot fogging oil in to carb while running for about 30 seconds to oil down the cylinders and then put a clean rag on top of the carb and then stuff a rag in the tailpipe.
Pat
Others will say to put car up on jack stands, flat spoting tires or just relaxing the suspension.
My personal check list is Oil change, coolant check or change, wash and wax entire car, put some nice smelling something inside the car and roll up the windows, Fill tank and add Stabil and run it for at least five min. before final shut down, last step is to shoot fogging oil in to carb while running for about 30 seconds to oil down the cylinders and then put a clean rag on top of the carb and then stuff a rag in the tailpipe.
Pat
#3
Steve, six months isn't really that long for storage. Fuel stabilizer is allways a good idea. Make sure your coolant/antifreeze is good for your zone. You might think about unhooking the battery, or putting a battery tender on it. Some peaple like to change the oil and wax the car. Some anti-mouse methods might be in order, not sure how bad those pesky creatures might be in your area.
One thing I don't do in the winter is start the car occasionally. If I do start it, it gets driven 10 to 20 miles. Long enough for everything to warm up to operating temp. Its my belief that starting the car for short events just leads to more condensation in the engine and does no good. I know opinions will vary on that.
I have no doubt your car will be ready for you come spring dust-off.
One thing I don't do in the winter is start the car occasionally. If I do start it, it gets driven 10 to 20 miles. Long enough for everything to warm up to operating temp. Its my belief that starting the car for short events just leads to more condensation in the engine and does no good. I know opinions will vary on that.
I have no doubt your car will be ready for you come spring dust-off.
#4
I agree with Don on the no start, unless you have a couple of nice weather days and you have the itch to go out for a run.
Most engine wear occurs during start up! Some argue the point of seal shrinkage.
Pat
Most engine wear occurs during start up! Some argue the point of seal shrinkage.
Pat
#5
They hold onto moisture, and may encourage mold.
I would NOT do this.
I have also heard of Irish Spring soap, cut in small pieces or shavings.
None of these is foolproof (or mouseproof), though.
I always leave the windows cracked a bit. You do not want moisture to stay in the interior, where mold will grow and you will end up with a musty smell.
I prefer to leave windows open as much as possible while still keeping varmints (such as CATS!) out.
All of the other advice above seems reasonable, but most of it is overkill for a mere six month sleep.
The one thing that I am considering doing is something I have always done with my lawnmowers: Run the carb out of gas.
Easiest way is probably to disconnect the fuel hose before the fuel pump (or gently Vise-Grip it, if it's fresh and flexible), then let 'er idle 'till she dies.
I have found that it seems to take less and less time for corrosion and crud to form inside of carburetors with today's gasoline, and a dry carb, with perhaps a spray of fogging oil down the vent stack, should completely prevent this.
If you really like to spray fogging oil into the cylinders, you can either do it cranking with the throttle wide open, or pull the plugs and give each cylinder a spray.
... And I agree: Don't start it until you are going to drive it.
- Eric
#7
I made these bait boxes from scrap lumber. and screwed a tuna fish can to the center of the bottom to hold the bait/poison. The lid has one screw and a nail peg so it can be slid opened to check/replace poison
#8
Car Storage
If you are going to store for 6 mos or more, you may want to consider a storage bag for the vehicle. The bag comes with absorbing sheets called "desiccants". You spread these under the vehicle before zipping your car in the bag. I got mine from www.carbag.com
Here is my checklist:
1. Wash and wax car.
2. Vacuum interior.
3. Change oil and filter.
4. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection.
5. Over-inflate tires 5psi over.
6. Fill gas tank and add Stabil.
7. Lay down plastic vapor barrier.
8. Place car bag on plastic vapor barrier. Drive car onto bag, scatter the desiccants.
9. Disconnect battery and place on battery saver.
10. Zip up the bag. (You can also use a car cover in conjunction with the bag)
11. Do not open until Spring.
12. Your car will come out of the bag EXACTLY like you put it in !!
Some other things people do is stuff the tailpipes with steel wool, alum foil or a rag. I don't do this because my car is in a bag. Some people also add a nice interior air freshner to the car before storing it. I live in Michigan and this process works great for me every year.
Here is my checklist:
1. Wash and wax car.
2. Vacuum interior.
3. Change oil and filter.
4. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection.
5. Over-inflate tires 5psi over.
6. Fill gas tank and add Stabil.
7. Lay down plastic vapor barrier.
8. Place car bag on plastic vapor barrier. Drive car onto bag, scatter the desiccants.
9. Disconnect battery and place on battery saver.
10. Zip up the bag. (You can also use a car cover in conjunction with the bag)
11. Do not open until Spring.
12. Your car will come out of the bag EXACTLY like you put it in !!
Some other things people do is stuff the tailpipes with steel wool, alum foil or a rag. I don't do this because my car is in a bag. Some people also add a nice interior air freshner to the car before storing it. I live in Michigan and this process works great for me every year.
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December 4th, 2008 06:28 AM