parkside

hi. new owner here. I recently bought a 1964 super 88. it's been sitting in a garage in southwest texas. no rust. runs and drives perfectly. it's complete and original. I've bought all new replacement steering components - bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc - essentially all the rubber bits that have died. typically, how many hours should it take to remove and replace all these parts? and, any idea how much this should cost?

thanks

Robert

Schurkey

"How much it costs" depends on the labor rate for the shop you choose. Around here, it's about $100/hr, more at a stealership.

I don't think a shop can do this in ten labor hours, especially if we include the alignment afterwards. Fifteen, twenty, perhaps. This is why D-I-Y is popular for parts replacement. It'd be a good "long weekend" project; (if you work really slowly, a long-weekend for each side) even if it's just you removing parts, and hauling control arms to a subcontractor to replace bushings and ball joints before you reinstall. Gives you a chance to strip, wire-brush/sand blast, and re-paint the components so they look new as well as function like new. Depending on how the ball joints attach, you might be able to rent a ball joint press, and then fabricate the special spacers to use the ball joint press on the control arm bushings, too. See service manual for details. Even if you hire this done, make sure they won't destroy your control arms cramming the bushings in place!

Point is, doesn't matter what we think. What matters is what the shop you choose thinks. GET THE ESTIMATE IN WRITING, and make sure it covers everything you want done. Tell them you want all the old parts back--that way they have to use all the new parts, they can't just leave the old stuff in place and tell you they changed it. Make sure they are willing to align the thing for modern tires, avoid a shop that does it "by the book" or not at all. Power steering? You'll want all the positive caster you can get, while holding "0" to "Negative 1/4" on the camber; and not much toe-in.

Most shops will be uneasy about customer-supplied parts.

As long as you're having all this done...good time to upgrade the springs. At least check the ride-height the way GM specifies in the shop manual (NOT by running a tape measure from fender-lip to the ground!) "I" would want to be towards the "LOW" end of spec, but with stiffer, shorter springs.

Speaking of "all the rubber bits that have died", remember that the body-to-frame bushings were rotted thirty years ago.

parkside

hi and thanks for the tips. I live in a verrrrry small town and like to get things done by local folks. one guy did the brakes and fuel lines and rear shocks, that was his limit. then the job got passed up to another guy who did the front suspension and steering. I paid them cash and everyone was happy. next up, I'll take it to get the alignment done in a tire store in the next town over. I own a towing and car transport company so moving the car is easy but time consuming. mid week, I'm going to tow it down to a body shop on the Mexican border. they'll redo the interior and replace the front windshield. that should take a couple of months. finally,light sanding and three coats of clear coat. done!

a few more questions, if you don't mind.
1). most of the dash lights are out. is there a schematic with the bulb locations?
2).bench seats fore and aft. is there a more modern seat belt for the front seats (that has a built-in retainer)? anyone sell them?
3). is the trunk lined with burlap? if that's the case, I'll use coffee bags to recover mine.
4). the letters on the trunk lid are held in place with tiny round bits. on my car, the "O" in Oldsmobile is "saved" in the glove box. anyone know where to get a couple of these tiny round items?
5). speedometer needle is not working. what's the likely cause of that?

thanks

robert

Schurkey

If the work is already done and paid for, why are you asking how long it should take, and how much it will cost? You already knew both answers.
Yes, in the "official" GM service manual set you need to buy.
There are aftermarket seat-belt manufacturers. I got my belts from a newer vehicle, and fabricated as needed to install in a '66 Toronado.
No idea. I'd have expected speckle-paint.
Any "real" parts store. Especially if they specialize in serving the body-shop side of the repair industry.
Failure in the cable
Failure in the speedo head
Failure in the drive mechanism for the cable

parkside

thanks.

Robert