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My passenger-side front bumper parking lamp only partially lights. I’ve swapped the bulb (1157), but only one of the two diodes (?) will light... i suspect it is the connector, as the light flickers on/off when I move the wiring, even slightly...
I checked the wires, all contact areas, and applied contact lubricant, so the connector is next on my list of suspects...
Q: is it possible to just replace the connectors, coming off the lamp assembly and harness? Checked OPGI and it appears the connector is part of the lamp assembly as well as the complete front-lighting wiring harness. No connectors, alone.
any thoughts, advice suggestions well appreciated...
An 1157 is an incandescent light, no diodes. You are correct its probably the contacts in the socket and it is 1 piece. The contacts are spring loaded and must move freely and be clean.
My passenger-side front bumper parking lamp only partially lights. I’ve swapped the bulb (1157), but only one of the two diodes (?) will light... i suspect it is the connector, as the light flickers on/off when I move the wiring, even slightly...
I checked the wires, all contact areas, and applied contact lubricant, so the connector is next on my list of suspects...
Q: is it possible to just replace the connectors, coming off the lamp assembly and harness? Checked OPGI and it appears the connector is part of the lamp assembly as well as the complete front-lighting wiring harness. No connectors, alone.
any thoughts, advice suggestions well appreciated...
You might check the socket with a volt meter. Sometimes the contacts are corroded and sometimes the wiring has a short somewhere else. You can puncture the insulation on the wiring with a pin and put the volt meter on the pin to see if the wire is good or the problem is with the socket.
i suspect it is the connector, as the light flickers on/off when I move the wiring, even slightly..
As Eric said, the wires connect to terminals in the socket that are spring loaded to make contact with the base of the bulb. Since the bulb lights when you wiggle the wires, there is a contact issue. Most likely the springs are weak or there is corrosion keeping the wire terminals from contacting the base of the bulb. Try cleaning out the dried grease/ gunk in the socket or replace the springs. There is info on the spring replacement if you search the forums.
The socket can also become corroded & demonstrate intermittent/partial lighting. If you can't clean up the springs/contacts, etc. it's often best to replace the socket itself. Most automotive parts stores carry the x2 contact standard 1157 (x2 filament bulb) socket. Rip out the old one insert a new one.
My passenger-side front bumper parking lamp only partially lights. I’ve swapped the bulb (1157), but only one of the two diodes (?) will light... i suspect it is the connector, as the light flickers on/off when I move the wiring, even slightly...
I checked the wires, all contact areas, and applied contact lubricant, so the connector is next on my list of suspects...
Q: is it possible to just replace the connectors, coming off the lamp assembly and harness? Checked OPGI and it appears the connector is part of the lamp assembly as well as the complete front-lighting wiring harness. No connectors, alone.
any thoughts, advice suggestions well appreciated...
Only one FILAMENT lights when? Keep in mind that one filament is powered by the parking light circuit and one is powered by the turnsignal circuit.
Take out the bulb and rub the dickens out of the leaded bulb end on your pants then clean the contacts in he socket, WD40 the spring and see what you have. Other wise chase the wires and connectors.... Tedd
All great info. Particularly the suggestion to replace the socket ... though, to be sure, that would require cutting and splicing the connector wire, I presume? I did see the lamp assembly (which includes wire/connector) for about $68, so that might be worth it.
Regarding the flickering... I should clarify, this only happens when I move the connector, and even just slightly (I often find the light is not on after driving, clearly from jostling). Moving the wire near the lamp assembly itself doesn’t cause flickering. Same with moving it near the insulation, This is what leads me to believe the issue is near or in the connector...
What is still confusing, however is one filament not being lighted, when the lamp is on... even if the wiring is faulty, I would think when it IS working both elements would be lighted, regardless...(Joe I recognize your comment, however, on the driver side both filaments are lighted and the turn signal powers off and on one OF THEM).
The assembly springs seem very intact, plenty of resistance, and the contacts quite clean. Considering trying the driver side assembly as a test to determine if that solves the issue, or just rolling the dice and paying the $68 for a new one.
I'm not certain what you're referring to as a connector. There is a socket, the socket sits (is pressed) in the side lamp marker assembly. Two wires attach to the socket. Where is the connector? Are you referring to a point in the wiring where there resides a wiring plug - a male & female wiring plug inserted into each other? What is this connector you're referring to? And, yes, cut the two wires, rip out the old socket, insert the new socket and splice the wires. Be sure to use heat shrink around the wire splice.
BTW, and no - one filament works off the signal circuit and one filament works off the parking lamp circuit - as Joe has already described. Case in point. If the 1157 bulb goes bad, it can often mean one filament has burned out. That filament can be either the signal/blinker filament broke or the parking lamp circuit filament broke in the bulb - one or the other (or, sometimes both). The socket has two contact points - each one an independent circuit. So, either one or the other will illuminate.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; August 28th, 2019 at 08:42 PM.
and, I’ll double check, but it appears both elements are lighted on the driver side bulb - that one is certainly much brighter (twice as bright)
Both the bulbs are from the same, new package.,... so I only assumed both filaments were lighted on the driver side.
So perhaps the only issue is the flickering bulb on the passenger side, I’ll take a photograph of the lighted bulbs so all can see the remarkable difference in brightness
Easiest method to test is to use a simple test light. One wire alligator clips to a known good ground (frame, chassis, sheet metal, etc.) the other (probe) attaches (used to 'probe') the wire, plug, socket, contact, etc. If good - bulb illuminates. They range from $3.00 - $15.00 (generally). Disconnect the plug (connector) & probe the terminals inside the plug - the terminals can corrode/oxidize and go bad, they can become loose, and wires can begin to become loose. Another (good) option is take the probe and insert it (puncture) into any point in the length of the wire(s) - the probe has an extremely fine tip designed to be used to 'puncture' wire. If you're not going to test with a probe light, these plugs are available in many automotive parts stores; and, you don't necessarily need the identical two (male/female plugs) - you just need two (male/female) plugs (connector) which work. Fact is, you don't really need the plugs (connector) at all. Cut the plugs out, twist the wires together and test to see if the bulb illuminates properly. Don't go overboard here - they're nothing more than simple wires. This is daily routine electrical maintenance.
You're correct. They are referred to as 'connectors'. I always call them 'plugs'.
With that said, they're referred to as Packard 56 Series Connectors - male/female. You'll need the 2-contact plug if you find the connectors need to be replaced. But I doubt it's the connector(s) themselves; it's probably the metal terminals soldered to the wire(s) inside the plug (which you can buy also) or as I referenced above, use a different type plug(s). The wires can be removed (pulled from the connectors w/ a very fine screwdriver or similar device). Good luck.
and, I’ll double check, but it appears both elements are lighted on the driver side bulb - that one is certainly much brighter (twice as bright)
Once again, WHEN are both filaments illuminated? If just the parking lights are on and the turn signal is not, only ONE filament should be lit. If both are lit you have a bad ground at the socket, causing the park light circuit to find ground through the turn signal circuit. This is not normal.
Drivers lamp super bright, but, I haven't checked the light to see if both filaments are on. I will remove lens tonight and check closeup seems too dim? Only one filament is lighted
With reference to the 1157 bulb only, the lower filament is for the normal (dimmer) driving/parking circuit and the upper (brighter) filament is for the turn signal circuit. You might turn on the signals on both sides w/ and w/o the driving/parking lamps turned ON to further evaluate on a purely visual basis.
Once again, WHEN are both filaments illuminated? If just the parking lights are on and the turn signal is not, only ONE filament should be lit. If both are lit you have a bad ground at the socket, causing the park light circuit to find ground through the turn signal circuit. This is not normal.
Joe, wouldn't it also be possible to illuminate both filaments (on the driver's side 1157 in this case) if both of the bulb contacts (ultimately the 1157 bulb) were getting power? Both circuits employ a single ground (socket to frame), each operates independently when one or the other spring contact is getting power. However, if you apply power to BOTH spring contact terminals, wouldn't both filaments illuminate?
Joe, wouldn't it also be possible to illuminate both filaments (on the driver's side 1157 in this case) if both of the bulb contacts (ultimately the 1157 bulb) were getting power? Both circuits employ a single ground (socket to frame), each operates independently when one or the other spring contact is getting power. However, if you apply power to BOTH spring contact terminals, wouldn't both filaments illuminate?
Of course, but unless the wiring is hosed, you only get power to both contacts if the park lights and turn signal are turned on at the same time, which is why I have twice asked now if this happens only when the park lights are on or when both park and turn signal are on. If the wiring is correct and you still get both filaments illuminated when only the park lights are on, the cause is a bad ground at the socket. Now, if the connector at the other end of the pigtail is messed up, it can obviously power the turn signal filament inadvertently. Unfortunately, getting details and answers from the OP has been frustratingly difficult.
Of course, but unless the wiring is hosed, you only get power to both contacts if the park lights and turn signal are turned on at the same time, which is why I have twice asked now if this happens only when the park lights are on or when both park and turn signal are on. If the wiring is correct and you still get both filaments illuminated when only the park lights are on, the cause is a bad ground at the socket. Now, if the connector at the other end of the pigtail is messed up, it can obviously power the turn signal filament inadvertently. Unfortunately, getting details and answers from the OP has been frustratingly difficult.
Agree. I was approaching this as the possibility the driver's side either bulb contacts or socket spring contacts were "bridged". IOW, both filaments receiving power from a single source, say the parking lamp circuit w/ the parking lamps is turned ON. If the two 1157 contact points were bridged (via a corrosive metal bridge on the bulb itself if they're touching one another) or the spring contacts were bridged (in somewhat the same manner), you'd get power to both filaments and still be operating on a single ground.
I can take an 1157, lay its casing across the negative battery terminal and apply power independently to one 1157 contact or the other, each filament illuminates independently. I can also apply power to both 1157 contacts at the same time and both filaments will illuminate together employing a single ground source. Albeit, if the power is coming from the parking circuit, and there is a bridge between the two contact points, both filaments will illuminate without a bad ground.
Agree. I was approaching this as the possibility the driver's side either bulb contacts or socket spring contacts were "bridged". IOW, both filaments receiving power from a single source, say the parking lamp circuit w/ the parking lamps is turned ON. If the two 1157 contact points were bridged (via a corrosive metal bridge on the bulb itself if they're touching one another) or the spring contacts were bridged (in somewhat the same manner), you'd get power to both filaments and still be operating on a single ground.
I can take an 1157, lay its casing across the negative battery terminal and apply power independently to one 1157 contact or the other, each filament illuminates independently. I can also apply power to both 1157 contacts at the same time and both filaments will illuminate together employing a single ground source. Albeit, if the power is coming from the parking circuit, and there is a bridge between the two contact points, both filaments will illuminate without a bad ground.
Testing the socket contacts with a VOM or test light with the park lights on and the turn signal off is the first step. Again, is the pigtail connector on the OP's car bad or not? I can't tell from the limited info in this thread. If not, and if a quick inspection shows no debris in the socket, then that's a low probability. Of course, it's also one easily ruled out with a simple test.
I'm following you completely; and, IMO - I suspect (simply visualizing the illumination contained in the images) the RH-side is illuminated normally via the parking circuit and the LH-side is incorrectly illuminated. Therefore, the OPs statement
....passenger-side front bumper parking lamp only partially lights...
is, in fact not correct, but the driver's side front bumper parking lamp is the issue.
Right Vintage Chief! I get NO turn signal action on the drivers side front, on both the side marker and front bulb! Apologies to Joe and all for not realizing that the two filaments do work independently. So now I must figure out where the ground is bad. I'm presuming that is on the lamp assembly?
And more specifically, to Joe, I missed your earlier post, but yes you nailed it. The directional works when the parking lights are off. When I engage the parking lights, the directional does not work, and both filaments are lighted. I will say, the passenger side still looks quite dim, but, that must only be in comparison to the very bright, dual filament drivers light being engaged. Not gonna, lie, I kind of like that brighter (albeit wrong) drivers light.
So with that said, how do I check/fix that ground. I doubt its the bulb, it is new, perhaps Vintage Chief has something with the two contacts being bridged, somehow? Gonna have to check on this tonight
The directional works when the parking lights are off. When I engage the parking lights, the directional does not work, and both filaments are lighted.
Which directional - RH or LH? We are not mind readers here. I'm assuming the driver side.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; August 29th, 2019 at 01:41 PM.
Right Vintage Chief! I get NO turn signal action on the drivers side front, on both the side marker and front bulb! Apologies to Joe and all for not realizing that the two filaments do work independently. So now I must figure out where the ground is bad. I'm presuming that is on the lamp assembly?
When the parking lights are ON or OFF you get no turn signal action? Be specific please. I'm assuming when you turn the parking lights to the ON position but you're making this very difficult.
Couldn't be sure Norm, many of my questions were answered before I asked. My bad, should read more carefully... In any case, contrary to my original suspicions, the passenger side works fine — the drivers side directional works when the parking lights are off — when parking lights are on, both filaments light and the directional does not. Pretty much as Joe figured out about 10 posts back...
Well, I guess you aren't planning on removing the RH passenger side front bumper lens at this point now are you since we've managed by some mysterious method to determine the issue is NOT on the passenger side as you suspected with a partially lighted lamp housing but instead on the LH driver side. The process remains the same. Pull the lens, examine the same stuff you did on the RH passenger side (now that you have the correct side determined). I still for the life of me CANNOT figure out how you managed to pull and tug on the RH passenger side to convince yourself the issue was with the RH passenger side connector. Argh.
well, to be fair, part of the reason I was tripped up is because the left side light (passenger) still has some a loose connection, and I'm fairly certain that it is in the connector (male / female connector), for reasons previously stated. Both male and female are clean, but even slightly moving that connection causes the light to go out. But, I digress and I will adrress that later, likely by simply removing the connector.
In any case, that issue is what led me to believe the bulb was not being properly lighted. Obviously not an expert on this, but that's why I'm here.
So, with all necessary apologies, thank yall for your patience and advice to help me understand, that was a lot of posts, some of which I simply missed the first time, which didn't help.
Now, at the risk of asking more questions to which the answers are obvious, is there some specific way in which the lamp is grounded? An earlier post stated the cause of the dual filament being lighted is a bad ground at the socket.
More apologies in advance ; )
Last edited by Sunshn; August 29th, 2019 at 02:11 PM.
The lamp socket receives its ground from being in contact with the metal lamp housing which is in contact with the metal chassis. So, the socket is press-fitted (at the factory) into the metal lamp housing. The exterior casing of the 1157 bulb is grounded to the socket when you insert the 1157 bulb into the socket. Each of the two spring-loaded contacts are (once again) independent of each other - one is the parking light circuit (lower filament) the other is the turn signal circuit. At this point, and we are referring to the LH driver side, we don't know specifically where the issue or problem resides. Joe is suggesting it's a bad ground which is causing both filaments to illuminate (at least that's how I read it).
Remove the LH lens and examine the bulb. You stated the LH directional works w/ the parking lights off. I assume you mean the upper filament illuminates AND flashes which is the normal condition. If so, that implies the turn signal power circuit is operating - power is being supplied and there is a return path to ground. On the slight chance this is not the case, I'd ask a follow-up question. When you witness the turn signal illuminated and flashing, is only the upper filament illuminated and flashing or are both filaments illuminated and flashing when the turn signal is turned to the ON position?
With the turn signal illuminated and flashing (by itself), you stated the turn signal is no longer operational when you turn the parking light to the ON position. At this point, can you tell if the light becomes brighter when you turn the parking lights ON and the turn signal stops flashing or is the brightness the same as when the turn signal was illuminated and flashing without the parking lights turned ON?
August 27th, 2019, 06:38 PM
