I purchased a reproduction cover from Fusick. After receiving it, I think I prefer the early repro that a member here has for sale. He is asking twice as much as the Fusick one but I think his looks closer to OEM. What do you all think?






Early repro



Fusick repro Not wild about the pointy "W"



Early repo



Fusick repro Doesn't have the same amount of fins on the inside

 

Rick,
Of the two, I like the early one more.
By the way, How's it going?

 

Whats the cost of each cover ? Who is the member making a Repro ?

 

Hi Jim,
Everything is good. Not sure if we're going to bring the car to the nationals though. My hook up for a truck and trailer has fallen through. WE also just moved and I have a large "to do" list from mama. Hoping to still attend the show even if we don't bring the car.Give me a call when you get a minute and we'll catch up. PM me if you don't have my number

$109 + $25 shipping from Fusick
$200 + $20 for shipping for the early repro that a member here has.

So not quite twice the price but close.

The member is not making these. He simply has a repro from the early 80's or there abouts. It definitely looks nicer than the Fusick version.

 

I bought a repro cover from Parts Place. I'm really happy with the way it looks. I know it's totally wrong on a 72 Cutlass but it increases the amount of fluid and has better cooling than a stock corporate 10 bolt cover. I think I paid around $85.00 for it and the casting is MUCH better than that one you showed from Fusick






This has all the fins on the inside as well.

 

before i saw the pics i thought to myself "hes overthinking this", but your 100% right that pointy W is a deal breaker, If you cant return the fusick one i would just dremel the W to look normaler, if you can return the fusick one get the repro shown.

if you try to sell the pointy w one you know no-one on here is going to want that pointy W'ed cover now that you pointed it out

You may also call fusick and double check maybe that one just escaped QC its really that bad IMO

 

 

Rick, thanks for the info. Close enough on twice the price. Does the member have only one repro or does he have more than one ?
Back when I ordered my 1970 W-30, I consulted the "heavy maintenance" mechanic at the Olds dealership. He told me to skip the W-27 option because it was weak and would break. If I had known the cover could have been ordered and I would have bought one then.

 

Some repro covers have the Type C (12 bolt Chevy) bolt pattern. If you have a Type O (or C), make sure it is the right cover for you.

 

 

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...l#&gid=1&pid=7


I would take a fine single cut file and draw file the end of the cover then finish with wet&dry fine sand paper on a stiff sanding block.
This would give the cover a more original look
If you don't want to draw file the cover you could just use coarser wet&dry sand paper and go through the grits

The first cover is a closer to a factory version

 

Allan I appreciate the comment on increased capacity and cooling. I had thought it was only cosmetic and thus being a bit of a poseur to just run the cover and not the actual w-27 diff. But, if it's an upgrade, it matters.

 

It's definitely an upgrade for gear oil and cooling. When I installed mine I noticed the cover also had the fins on the inside. I guess it's supposed to act as a heat sync to the outside? The outside fins are definitely used as heat syncs. Just like on the old AM/FM stereo car radios.

 

If I had a 70 to 72 I would have one for shear looks.
There was a real 70 W30 M22 W27 in my area back in the late 70's very very cool car. Even back then it was a rare car.