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Well since ive been blowing up this forums with questions, I finally have an update. Took my 67 to the shop to get an oil pressure test and not only is it low, but it's got blow by on the left bank and rod knock when warmed up and at 2k rpm.
So I've got 3 options; rebuild or replace (2 ways of replacing)
1: A place gave me a rough estimate of rebuilding the motor (dropping it off, the rebuild it, i drive it home) for 3-4k depending on what needs to be replaced.
2: Buy a used motor and hope for the best. Found a guy who claims he bought a car from a friend who rebuilt the motor before passing. Guy removed the engine and sold the rest of the car, but now doesn't have any use for the motor. Apparently it's a fresh 72 olds 350 from a convertible cutlass with Edelbrock intake and a mild cam, unfortunately no paperwork. Complete from carb to oil pan. $1200 + probably a grand to install. Cheapest, but a gamble, and if it hasn't been built, a lot less hp than my engine is supposed to be making.
3: spend 3k+ alone on a crate motor 350 + install. I'd get the most power and a new motor, but it'll hurt the wallet.
I have the money for all 3, but I don't want to just throw cash away. Plus having to explain it to my wife.
As with most projects, it all comes down to affordability and what you would like the finished product to look like.
Personally, if it can be salvaged I would have the original engine rebuilt. If she's a cruiser you have all of the horse power that you will need. But if you plan on doing any racing, and you are not worried about keeping her original, have a crate motor put in. But that's me. Everyone is different on what they want.
As with most projects, it all comes down to affordability and what you would like the finished product to look like.
Personally, if it can be salvaged I would have the original engine rebuilt. If she's a cruiser you have all of the horse power that you will need. But if you plan on doing any racing, and you are not worried about keeping her original, have a crate motor put in. But that's me. Everyone is different on what they want.
As much as I'd love to keep the old motor (especially after dropping a cam into it), its the idea of dropping another 3-4k into a motor that cant really be built. I don't really care about racing, apart from a stop light, but I hate the idea of going to an engine that basically had half the HP when new.
This would most certainly be a Chevy crate motor, correct? There are no new Oldsmobile motors being made. Is keeping the car all-Oldsmobile an issue? Also, I've never done it myself, but I've read on this forum that an Olds-to-Chevy swap is not simple. Much better to find another Olds V-8 if you are not rebuilding the original motor.
its the idea of dropping another 3-4k into a motor that cant really be built.
I don't understand this statement. Why do you think your current engine can't be built? A 330 can be built using all the same parts as a 350 and can be built for whatever performance level you want.
I don't understand this statement. Why do you think your current engine can't be built? A 330 can be built using all the same parts as a 350 and can be built for whatever performance level you want.
I thought the 330 had really hard to find parts due to the limited years of production?
FWIW, I repowered my '86 442 in 2013 with a '76 350 that I picked up for $400. I hooked up a battery and splashed some gas at it, compression tested it and it fired on the storage unit floor. My car's original 307 (had already been punched out to 311) had spun a bearing and been driven for a few hundred miles, so when I'd dropped the pan to start replacing bearings, I found a pump full of glitter and a crank journal that had been stepped 1/16". Got the 350 engine home to see that it it was puking oil from every available orifice, I could barely find the rockers amidst all the sludge, had an Edlebrock performer intake and a Carter carb. With the pan off, I cleaned the valvetrain with gasoline, regasketed every seal that could leak, put a new oil pump and timing set in it (might as well), scored an A4 intake, and started swapping over accessories, my carb, distributor, etc. IIRC the engine swap cost me $650 or less (especially after taking the 307 to the scrap yard), and I've put 8000 miles on that $400 engine since that time. The engine may be a smog 350 with #8 heads, but it runs strong and smooth. Cam? Milled heads? I have no idea; I was told it came from a wrecked Regal, and it definitely moves the car better than the old engine, which I'd put 40k miles on in the couple years it was on the road from high school and into college.
My point? If you're looking to be able to drive your car, there are deals to be had on running engines. Mine looked plenty worse for wear, but is Oldsmobile smooth, starts every time, and takes me hundreds of miles away from home when I need it to, so I'm plenty happy with it. Don't get hung up on numbers, just worry about whether the car is enjoyable to drive or not. If you want to get the car going in a reasonable amount of time, it would be worth it to keep an eye out for a used stock or mostly stock engine; I wouldn't trust an unknown rebuilt engine, especially if it was recently rebuilt and then not used. To do your engine "right" would require a full tear-down and machine work, but for a limited-use fun car, a ring and bearing job can be done in your garage in a couple of weekends. All depends on time frame; I had 5 weeks to engine swap, re-floor, re-brake, and re-carpet mine, so I got a lot of bang for the buck. I wouldn't suggest taking your 330 to a scrap yard.
A remanned motor only has the worn parts replaced, generally rings and bearings, oil pump. A rebuilt motor should have New pistons, rebuilt heads, rebuilt rods with new rod-bolts.
I would check into this 72 motor, ask the guy to pull the pan and intake so you can inspect it. Pull a main cap to check for new bearings, check to see if it has new or reused pistons. If it just had a ring and bearing replacement offer less.
Good Lord, your acting like the 330 is some rompin-stompin powerhouse!! By no means am I suggesting 330 engines are “gutlass”, but the torque of a well tuned 350/403 will move your car around very well, especially if the 330 is tired and showing it’s age ( based on your description, it sounds like that’s the case).
As suggested, go look at this “rebuilt” engine. Do you have access to a small air compressor? If so, your in luck. Go to harbor frieght, get a cheap leak down tester. Bring a 1 1/8 socket, extension, a couple pair of vise grips and ratchet. Make sure the engine turns over free. remove the spark plugs and valve covers. Pick a cylinder, rotate the engine until the piston is at the top of the bore, with both valves closed. Clamp the vise grips to the flywheel as close to the engine block as possible. The idea is to use the vise grips to limit engine rotation. Connect the leak down tester as per the instructions. Listen and observe for air leaking, if it’s truly a fresh engine the leak down should be good.
if the seller won’t agree to allowing you to look the engine over as throughly as this, either walk away, or based on what limited inspection he will allow and your own instincts, offer a substantially lower amount than he is asking. All he can do is say no, then he can store the engine for another 10 years or whatever
Almost certainly, the crate engine your looking at will be a chebby engine. The 3k price tag will be about half what the total parts bill will be once you buy a transmission, exhaust, radiator, starter, water pump, accessory brackets, and all the other little crap that won’t interchange between chevy and Olds.
here is a remanufactured Olds 403 engine. ATK is a well know rebuilder. I would suggest calling them direct, maybe they could build an engine closer to exactly what your looking for.
I would go for the ATK 403 if I were you. I think based on what I have read you would be much better having a warrantied engine that you only have to put external accessories on. What is your location? I am soon pulling the healthy 72 olds 350/th350 out of my cutlass for a much healthier 403 and 200 4R. Around here a known good engine and trans is $800 for the pair, or about $500 each. That's what I'm going to put them on craigslist for. That is if you can hear them run or drive them around. I would pay very little for an unknown condition engine or auto trans.
I would go for the ATK 403 if I were you. I think based on what I have read you would be much better having a warrantied engine that you only have to put external accessories on. What is your location? I am soon pulling the healthy 72 olds 350/th350 out of my cutlass for a much healthier 403 and 200 4R. Around here a known good engine and trans is $800 for the pair, or about $500 each. That's what I'm going to put them on craigslist for. That is if you can hear them run or drive them around. I would pay very little for an unknown condition engine or auto trans.
March 3rd, 2020 | 02:49 PM
