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Rear Oil Galley plug.

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Old December 1st, 2013, 03:28 PM
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Rear Oil Galley plug.

Machine shop left this plug out during reassembly. That is why I have hardly no oil pressure. I can see that it is missing by putting a dental mirror down through the distributor hole. Has any one had success with using a flexible tool of some sort and working it into place through the distributor opening? I am trying to avoid pulling the engine and removing the freeze plug at the back of the engine.
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Old December 1st, 2013, 03:48 PM
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With the limited room to turn a tool, I don't see installing thru the dist'r hole feasible.

Even if you had one of those ratchets that drives by the end of the handle, the last bit of tightness would be near impossible to attain. I guess those ratchets don't even exist anymore, I can't find a photo of one.

Do what you gotta do. You can drop the trans, that might be easier. Fewer things to disconnect, and only ONE kind of juice to clean up. Bill the idiot that left the plug out.

Use a proper plug with a spurt hole.
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Old December 1st, 2013, 03:51 PM
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You gotta pull the motor or transmission
Plug needs a hole drilled in it to lube
The distributer gear ..... .040
That happened to me
But I Checked the engine
Before it went in the car ....
Used a new machine shop
For that one ....
Good luck
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Old December 1st, 2013, 03:53 PM
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I guess I didn't want to hear that the engine needed to come out but I have no choice. Thank You Octania.
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Old December 1st, 2013, 03:55 PM
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Is it possible to use a brass 3/8 pipe plug from Home depot and drill the .040 hole into it?
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Old December 1st, 2013, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean Blake
Is it possible to use a brass 3/8 pipe plug from Home depot and drill the .040 hole into it?
Certainly.
Drilling a 0.040" hole is no easy task though. Teensy drills tend to break.
What if you were to buy a used one from one of us? Click, wait 3 days, voila'.

"I guess I didn't want to hear that the engine needed to come out"
==============================
Well, you can drop the trans instead.
If you want I can bullshed you and tell you that you DON'T need to do either...


Reminds me of the guy I consulted with last fall. We found a lifter not moving, the cam lobe was wiped flat. I told him the cam has to come out. What? Oh no... Well, what other choice is there for that fix?
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Old December 1st, 2013, 04:33 PM
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Two thoughts:

1. No question, the engine and transmission have to come apart - one or the other has to come out.

2. This is about as definitive a machine shop failure as you're going to find.
No "You didn't lube it right" or "You didn't break it in right" or "You must have dropped the crank."
The plug is missing, the cam freeze plug is in, the engine is in the car.
The machine shop needs to pay to have the engine taken out and the problem fixed.
They have no wiggle room on this one. If they won't pay, they will lose in small claims court if you have photos and witnesses.
Don't let them fix it, as they've already proven themselves to be unreliable.

- Eric
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Old December 2nd, 2013, 09:43 AM
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Agreed with the component removal to properly install the plug. Also agree with the statement that the machine shop should be on the hook to pay up...at minimum they should offer a tear down inspection WITH YOU STANDING THERE.
As far as the tool you shouldn't use through the dist hole...(Cant simply upload a pic so) Google Wadsworth Mini Ratchet Super Deluxe 52 pc set. This tool has pulled me out of more binds than my Jeep and 250 combined!
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Old December 3rd, 2013, 09:59 AM
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http://www.techni-tool.com/307SC344



PS OP you will need a 5/16" SQUARE drive tool to install the proper plug.

I await your decision to buy the epay one or one from me.
=
Edit Th. night
I thought you and the other guy were the same guy
Didn't pay attention I guess
Sold one to t'other feller, do you want the ebay one or... ?

Last edited by Octania; December 5th, 2013 at 03:12 PM.
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