Rear axel troubles
#1
Rear axel troubles
First off I was not sure were best to post this. I am in the process of replacing the driver side rear outer axel bearings and it is not good. I will post pics later of the mess. Not sure if anyone has a write up or pictures of this process. The outer axel bearing basically grenaded and I am in the repair process. I have what I believe to be all the replacement parts. I just need to verify if that is correct. I bought a new bearing, seal, diff pinion seal as I think that was the cause of all this. I have to get the new bearing pressed on and want to make sure the seal must go on before the bearing is pressed on the axel. I have a mangled thin piece of metal that looks like it used to be a seal in the cap the four bolts bolt and lock the axel in the axel tube. I have had at least two people tell me unbolt the other side and look but nothing is wrong with the other side and thus I would prefer not to tear it apart. Just to note I caught it before it did any damage to the diff itself no metal chunks shards etc around the gears. I will have to clean the driver side axel tube as it stayed contained in the tube and near the outer part of the axel.
#2
On a car this old....replace both sides. If you don't you're just going to have to do it all over again when the other side blows.
The seal should be inside of the axle retainer, but outside of the bearing. Since you already are going to replace the pinion seal, that means that you are going to need to remove the carrier anyway. Also you will need to replace the crush sleeve so you can get the proper preload on the pinion bearings.
If you don't have the proper equipment and skill to set up the rear end, then I would suggest that you take it to a shop, or you may end up doing more damage than good.
The seal should be inside of the axle retainer, but outside of the bearing. Since you already are going to replace the pinion seal, that means that you are going to need to remove the carrier anyway. Also you will need to replace the crush sleeve so you can get the proper preload on the pinion bearings.
If you don't have the proper equipment and skill to set up the rear end, then I would suggest that you take it to a shop, or you may end up doing more damage than good.
#3
On a car this old....replace both sides. If you don't you're just going to have to do it all over again when the other side blows.
The seal should be inside of the axle retainer, but outside of the bearing. Since you already are going to replace the pinion seal, that means that you are going to need to remove the carrier anyway. Also you will need to replace the crush sleeve so you can get the proper preload on the pinion bearings.
If you don't have the proper equipment and skill to set up the rear end, then I would suggest that you take it to a shop, or you may end up doing more damage than good.
The seal should be inside of the axle retainer, but outside of the bearing. Since you already are going to replace the pinion seal, that means that you are going to need to remove the carrier anyway. Also you will need to replace the crush sleeve so you can get the proper preload on the pinion bearings.
If you don't have the proper equipment and skill to set up the rear end, then I would suggest that you take it to a shop, or you may end up doing more damage than good.
#4
So long as he has the stuff to set up the diff you should be OK. Keep in mind that if you are replacing the other bearing that you should do the carrier bearings as well. On a car that is really close to 50 years old, and the fact that you are already into it that far, it's just a good idea.
I know it's more money, but talk to your mechanic buddy and see what he tells you.
The rear end isn't overly complicated, but it's also not somewhere that you want to skimp on when working on it.
I know it's more money, but talk to your mechanic buddy and see what he tells you.
The rear end isn't overly complicated, but it's also not somewhere that you want to skimp on when working on it.
#5
So long as he has the stuff to set up the diff you should be OK. Keep in mind that if you are replacing the other bearing that you should do the carrier bearings as well. On a car that is really close to 50 years old, and the fact that you are already into it that far, it's just a good idea.
I know it's more money, but talk to your mechanic buddy and see what he tells you.
The rear end isn't overly complicated, but it's also not somewhere that you want to skimp on when working on it.
I know it's more money, but talk to your mechanic buddy and see what he tells you.
The rear end isn't overly complicated, but it's also not somewhere that you want to skimp on when working on it.
Last edited by delmontcrusier; September 15th, 2015 at 07:18 PM.
#7
I don't think you have to pull the diff apart and replace the crush sleeve to change the pinion seal. I have read (not done it myself) that you can mark the nut and pinion, count the turns to remove the nut, then go back the same number of turns when reinstalling the nut. All that matters upon reassembly is the rotational torque on the pinion is within spec (6-8 inch-pounds for an 8.5" rear).
Randy's Ring and Pinion web site has a good installation instruction sheet on gear installation that has the rotational torque specs for various rears with new and used bearings:
http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Ho...structions.pdf
Randy's Ring and Pinion web site has a good installation instruction sheet on gear installation that has the rotational torque specs for various rears with new and used bearings:
http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Ho...structions.pdf
#8
The good news I am having the bearing etc pressed on the axel for $25. The retired gm mechanic is going to do the pinion seal for me, said it would just be easier to do it himself (he has the tools needed). so hopefully by the end of this weekend I will have my car back.
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kaptmikey
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February 25th, 2009 04:45 PM