General Discussion Discuss your Oldsmobile or other car-related topics.

Rear axel troubles

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old September 15th, 2015, 04:44 PM
  #1  
67 heavy metal
Thread Starter
 
delmontcrusier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 527
Rear axel troubles

First off I was not sure were best to post this. I am in the process of replacing the driver side rear outer axel bearings and it is not good. I will post pics later of the mess. Not sure if anyone has a write up or pictures of this process. The outer axel bearing basically grenaded and I am in the repair process. I have what I believe to be all the replacement parts. I just need to verify if that is correct. I bought a new bearing, seal, diff pinion seal as I think that was the cause of all this. I have to get the new bearing pressed on and want to make sure the seal must go on before the bearing is pressed on the axel. I have a mangled thin piece of metal that looks like it used to be a seal in the cap the four bolts bolt and lock the axel in the axel tube. I have had at least two people tell me unbolt the other side and look but nothing is wrong with the other side and thus I would prefer not to tear it apart. Just to note I caught it before it did any damage to the diff itself no metal chunks shards etc around the gears. I will have to clean the driver side axel tube as it stayed contained in the tube and near the outer part of the axel.
delmontcrusier is offline  
Old September 15th, 2015, 05:35 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
svnt442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 4,249
On a car this old....replace both sides. If you don't you're just going to have to do it all over again when the other side blows.

The seal should be inside of the axle retainer, but outside of the bearing. Since you already are going to replace the pinion seal, that means that you are going to need to remove the carrier anyway. Also you will need to replace the crush sleeve so you can get the proper preload on the pinion bearings.
If you don't have the proper equipment and skill to set up the rear end, then I would suggest that you take it to a shop, or you may end up doing more damage than good.
svnt442 is offline  
Old September 15th, 2015, 06:33 PM
  #3  
67 heavy metal
Thread Starter
 
delmontcrusier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 527
Originally Posted by svnt442
On a car this old....replace both sides. If you don't you're just going to have to do it all over again when the other side blows.

The seal should be inside of the axle retainer, but outside of the bearing. Since you already are going to replace the pinion seal, that means that you are going to need to remove the carrier anyway. Also you will need to replace the crush sleeve so you can get the proper preload on the pinion bearings.
If you don't have the proper equipment and skill to set up the rear end, then I would suggest that you take it to a shop, or you may end up doing more damage than good.
I suppose you are correct on replacing both sides. I was hoping not to have to spend more than needed as funds are somewhat tight. I have access to tools and people to get this done. I hoped someone had pictures to verify that the seal went in the spot I think it does. The bearing going the way it did threw a few curveballs at what was what. I am having trouble getting the pictures from my phone. I also have a retired gm mechanic that can help but he is limited due to health reasons.
delmontcrusier is offline  
Old September 15th, 2015, 06:41 PM
  #4  
Registered User
 
svnt442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 4,249
So long as he has the stuff to set up the diff you should be OK. Keep in mind that if you are replacing the other bearing that you should do the carrier bearings as well. On a car that is really close to 50 years old, and the fact that you are already into it that far, it's just a good idea.
I know it's more money, but talk to your mechanic buddy and see what he tells you.
The rear end isn't overly complicated, but it's also not somewhere that you want to skimp on when working on it.
svnt442 is offline  
Old September 15th, 2015, 07:16 PM
  #5  
67 heavy metal
Thread Starter
 
delmontcrusier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 527
Originally Posted by svnt442
So long as he has the stuff to set up the diff you should be OK. Keep in mind that if you are replacing the other bearing that you should do the carrier bearings as well. On a car that is really close to 50 years old, and the fact that you are already into it that far, it's just a good idea.
I know it's more money, but talk to your mechanic buddy and see what he tells you.
The rear end isn't overly complicated, but it's also not somewhere that you want to skimp on when working on it.
Reading your response and thinking about it the diff was gone through just before I bought the car in 06. I have a bag with the old parts in it and though the parts were replaced. The pinion seal let go somtime this year since the diff was wet. I guess it needed to be checked for gear oil in the more recent. But then again I didn't notice it was leaking. I bought a trans tail shaft seal since that has been leaking as well. Seals must not be of the greatest quality since the trans was rebuilt prior to purchasing the car in 06 and the paperwork is in the glove box.

Last edited by delmontcrusier; September 15th, 2015 at 07:18 PM.
delmontcrusier is offline  
Old September 15th, 2015, 07:34 PM
  #6  
Registered User
 
svnt442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 4,249
I would inspect the pinion and the drive shaft yoke for wear. The seals might be fine, but the metal is worn, causing the leaks.
svnt442 is offline  
Old September 16th, 2015, 11:51 AM
  #7  
Registered User
 
Fun71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 13,784
I don't think you have to pull the diff apart and replace the crush sleeve to change the pinion seal. I have read (not done it myself) that you can mark the nut and pinion, count the turns to remove the nut, then go back the same number of turns when reinstalling the nut. All that matters upon reassembly is the rotational torque on the pinion is within spec (6-8 inch-pounds for an 8.5" rear).

Randy's Ring and Pinion web site has a good installation instruction sheet on gear installation that has the rotational torque specs for various rears with new and used bearings:
http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Ho...structions.pdf
Fun71 is offline  
Old September 16th, 2015, 05:45 PM
  #8  
67 heavy metal
Thread Starter
 
delmontcrusier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 527
The good news I am having the bearing etc pressed on the axel for $25. The retired gm mechanic is going to do the pinion seal for me, said it would just be easier to do it himself (he has the tools needed). so hopefully by the end of this weekend I will have my car back.
delmontcrusier is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
swampjuice117
Parts Wanted
1
June 25th, 2015 07:23 PM
jankyrre
Drivetrain/Differentials
9
April 13th, 2012 07:37 PM
D Appeldorn
Eighty-Eight
2
January 7th, 2010 11:41 PM
redvettemike
General Discussion
1
June 3rd, 2009 06:52 PM
kaptmikey
Drivetrain/Differentials
7
February 25th, 2009 04:45 PM



Quick Reply: Rear axel troubles



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:35 AM.