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I have a 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme with a Harrison compressor. I would like to retrofit to R-134A. What would the cost be, and is it a task to convert: is it worth it? Has anyone any experience with retrofitting? There seem to be some drawbacks listed below:
Adding an extra cooling fan can help boost cooling performance, especially at idle and low speeds. Many older rear-wheel drive cars and trucks do not have a separate electric fan for the A/C condenser. They rely solely on the belt-driven fan for cooling, which may not be adequate in extremely hot weather with R-134a. Installing an auxiliary fan that comes on when the A/C is turned on give provide the extra airflow needed to carry away the heat.
Compressor durability is also a concern with some vehicles. Because R-134a raises compressor discharge pressures and increases the compressors work load, some lightweight compressors may not be rugged enough to tolerate R-134a over the long haul. This applies to the Harrison DA6 and Ford FX-15 compressors. The Harrison DA6 can be replaced with a HD-6, HR-6 or HR-6HE compressor. The Ford FX-15 compressor can be replaced with a FS-10 compressor.
Regardless of which retrofit method is used, cooling performance will vary depending on the design of the system. As a rule, expect anywhere from a 3% to 15% decrease in cooling performance when an R-12 system is converted to R-134a. Systems with relatively large or efficient condensers will experience less of a drop in cooling performance with R-134a than those with smaller or less efficient condensers.
As for the separate electric fan for the AC, yes that is needed for areas that experience "extremely hot weather". The same is true about compressor wear due to the elevated head pressure in "extremely hot weather". You don't need to worry about either of those since you don't live in a place with "extremely hot weather". That classification is for someplace such as Arizona, not Rhode Island.
I rebuilt the A6 ($30) flushed the condenser and evaporator ($10) but had to have a hole welded on the bottom of the condenser due to a rock hit ($40). Had vapor barrier lines fit to my original fittings to avoid the black goo ($280), replaced all my “0” rings to green 134s ($10). Cycling 134 POA valve ($100), reseal kit for AC box ($20), new drier bottle ($20). I installed an idle up Solenoid ($55) to kick on when the AC is running. Also had to fabricate a bracket for the solenoid (could buy one for $30). I’m still fine tuning, getting 38-40 degrees at the center dash vent. If I could do it all over again I would have bought the kit from Classic Air for $600!!
I rebuilt the A6 ($30) flushed the condenser and evaporator ($10) but had to have a hole welded on the bottom of the condenser due to a rock hit ($40). Had vapor barrier lines fit to my original fittings to avoid the black goo ($280), replaced all my “0” rings to green 134s ($10). Cycling 134 POA valve ($100), reseal kit for AC box ($20), new drier bottle ($20). I installed an idle up Solenoid ($55) to kick on when the AC is running. Also had to fabricate a bracket for the solenoid (could buy one for $30). I’m still fine tuning, getting 38-40 degrees at the center dash vent. If I could do it all over again I would have bought the kit from Classic Air for $600!!
Bill
I went with the under the hood upgrade kit from Classic Auto Air. You get everything from the firewall to the bumper.
BEST MONEY I SPENT $1100.00 shipped to my door. If you are not hung up on exact appearance under the hood, this is what you want. You get today's cooling capacity and efficiency for your classic. We see temps over a 100 mostly between 80 to 95 and my AC works perfectly.
You will need to call them, I bought mine two years ago off of a Ebay sale........that they informed me of.
Remember even though it is not listed A Body cars are pretty much the same for this. but they do have the condenser for our olds. It was a straight bolt up install. The only difference is the compressor and mounting bracket and it is universal. You will need to get a different fan belt I believe.
Just given them a call, they have excellent customer service and will get you what you need.
I went with the under the hood upgrade kit from Classic Auto Air. You get everything from the firewall to the bumper.
BEST MONEY I SPENT $1100.00 shipped to my door. If you are not hung up on exact appearance under the hood, this is what you want. You get today's cooling capacity and efficiency for your classic. We see temps over a 100 mostly between 80 to 95 and my AC works perfectly.
Thanks much. Do not wish to spend $600.00. Very nice motor. Appreciate the info.
I've said this before, and it bears repeating: *technically*, the only people allowed to buy and sell R-12 need to be licensed. A quick Google search will tell you that, and it is because the refrigerant is harmful to the environment when allowed to outgas.
The reason that it is relatively cheap to obtain now is because some folks stocked up right before it was regulated, or when they last charged their R-12 system, they bought an extra can or two from whomever was doing the work for them. That car may be gone now, or they decided to convert over, or... who knows? Guys would rather sell what they have laying about than let it go to waste, which works out for the guys that still need it.
I also doubt that you'll have anyone from the EPA (or whatever branch they would use to enforce their regulations) show up at your door for trying to buy/sell a can or two.
And as for not dealing with Craigslist or FB Marketplace, you limit yourself in your ability to buy and sell stuff that you'd need. I've sold probably in the neighborhood of $30k to $50k worth of goods through those two mediums. Everything ranging from an old section of aluminum extension ladder to household furniture to baby items to vehicles. Only had to deal with one nutball after a sale, and you get pretty good at weeding out the scammers pretty quickly based on how they correspond.
I've said this before, and it bears repeating: *technically*, the only people allowed to buy and sell R-12 need to be licensed. A quick Google search will tell you that, and it is because the refrigerant is harmful to the environment when allowed to outgas.
The reason that it is relatively cheap to obtain now is because some folks stocked up right before it was regulated, or when they last charged their R-12 system, they bought an extra can or two from whomever was doing the work for them. That car may be gone now, or they decided to convert over, or... who knows? Guys would rather sell what they have laying about than let it go to waste, which works out for the guys that still need it.
I also doubt that you'll have anyone from the EPA (or whatever branch they would use to enforce their regulations) show up at your door for trying to buy/sell a can or two.
And as for not dealing with Craigslist or FB Marketplace, you limit yourself in your ability to buy and sell stuff that you'd need. I've sold probably in the neighborhood of $30k to $50k worth of goods through those two mediums. Everything ranging from an old section of aluminum extension ladder to household furniture to baby items to vehicles. Only had to deal with one nutball after a sale, and you get pretty good at weeding out the scammers pretty quickly based on how they correspond.
* EPA is an absolute joke, whereas we pay no attention to them at all. As far as Craigslist is concerned, just look at all the negative reviews posted. I placed some items for sale (new) and the people wished to obtain them well below cost. Trash site that has underlying tones of idiots.
R-12 to R-134A Refrigerant Retrofit/ Conversion
