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She called me immediately and I told her screw the Jeep, keep driving to the next exit so you don't get run over on the side of the interstate (for some reason that happens more often than you would expect around here). She was able to make it to the exit, then the engine stalled as she was at the end of the off-ramp. I met her at the exit and towed the Jeep home. Amazingly, the engine survived with no issues and is still running strong today. Those I-6 engines are solid!
Low coolant level probe. Another one of those annoying-*** alarms designed to save people who don't have sense enough to maintain their vehicles. Ranks right up there with tire pressure alarms.
Originally Posted by 72455
So it looks like there's another plug on the tank...any ideas on what it's for?
WHAT is a half-inch thinner? The core, or the tanks? If it's the core, no problem. If it's the tanks, then the radiator might not sit right in the mounting pads. As oldcutlass said, you don't want it rattling around. If it is a bit loose in the mounting, you might be able to add some rubber padding. But I'll bet 1/2-inch will make no difference.
I agree, it won't be an issue. The top radiator support plate clamps the radiator fairly securely, even if there is a small front-rear gap in the rubber saddles.
Another one of those annoying-*** alarms designed to save people who don't have sense enough to maintain their vehicles. Ranks right up there with tire pressure alarms.
There's nothing wrong with those low tire pressure alarms. Sure, if you check your tire pressures regularly, you'll rarely need it. But no amount of routine checking will catch the nail or whatever that you've just run over. This happened about two months ago with my truck. Picked up a screw one day, parked it in the garage, and overnight it lost about half its pressure. It wasn't enough to make it visibly obvious that the tire was soft, so I didn't notice it. But the tire pressure alarm went off the moment I started it up. I went around with the gauge and quickly found the bad tire. Had there been no alarm, I would have had no reason to be checking the tire pressures that day, and I could have been driving on a soft tire that was getting softer until a real problem developed such as the tire getting damaged beyond repair.
A low coolant alarm can be just as valuable. The purpose of these alarms is not to warn you about routine problems or to take the place of routine maintenance. They're there to catch the catastrophic failure before that failure causes further damage, an accident, or who knows what.
There's nothing wrong with those low tire pressure alarms.
Unless you go off-roading frequently and air down, then they are a pain. Many Jeepers have reprogrammed the trip points to a low value, like 5 psi, so they don't trigger with normal 4-wheeling tire pressure levels.
I spent my working life as a control room operator in both coal-fired and nuclear power plants. I had literally thousands of alarms to deal with in a 12 hour shift. I do not want alarms either in my home or my vehicles. I really don't want to hear another alarm in my lifetime. Especially nuisance alarms, which a LTP alarm certainly qualifies as in my view.
Probably more important than if the tank is a 1/2' thinner is what is the difference in the thickness of the core? It may be one less row of tubes, cooling is everything to engine life, well not everything, but real important.
Probably more important than if the tank is a 1/2' thinner is what is the difference in the thickness of the core? It may be one less row of tubes, cooling is everything to engine life, well not everything, but real important.
The cooling capacity of a 2 row aluminum is better than a 3 row copper/brass. What is really important is airflow at idle, cruising speeds take care of themselves.
If it were me, if the aftermarket radiator will work, I'd put it in the car, plug up the unused holes, and get on with life. No one at a car show takes pictures of the radiator. As long as it keeps the engine properly cooled, it's doing its job. If you ever do find the correct replacement, you can always put it in. Installing the aftermarket radiator is not an irreversible process.
Just a thought. Have you considered getting a set of used tanks from a 71/72 and just having them re-cored? They will fit perfectly into your car. I would bet dollars to donuts someone has them at a reasonable price.
Just a thought. Have you considered getting a set of used tanks from a 71/72 and just having them re-cored? They will fit perfectly into your car. I would bet dollars to donuts someone has them at a reasonable price.
I bought the OCS161 radiator. I highly doubt there is any major difference between a 161 and 165 single core aluminum plastic rad. I installed it in my 88 Cutlass which has always ran warm, stayed with 10 degrees of the thermostat. It is going in my 70 Cutlass S and will run even cooler in it.
I bought the OCS161 radiator. I highly doubt there is any major difference between a 161 and 165 single core aluminum plastic rad. I installed it in my 88 Cutlass which has always ran warm, stayed with 10 degrees of the thermostat. It is going in my 70 Cutlass S and will run even cooler in it.
You're probably right, but the 161 has a different filler neck design than the 165, plus the 161 is thinner.
I would not buy a radiator with the "crimped on" plastic tanks if I could avoid it. I had this type in my Chevy S10 and replaced several over the years. I finally bought a welded aluminum one from Mishimoto for reliability considerations. The heat and contraction over time loosen the crimps and they start to leak at the gaskets. Even the OEM's have moved completely to bonded (glued) tanks and these seem to be pretty good. I would buy the Cold Case brand radiator for the extra money.
The heat and contraction over time loosen the crimps and they start to leak at the gaskets.
^^^^ THIS!
This is why GMC replaced (on their dime) the engine and cooling system in my 2015 Sierra. Unknown to me it started leaking on my 40 mile highway trip to work . It was leaking unnoticed under the truck on the passenger side for a couple days before the CEL came on. Before I knew it was a widely known OEM problem covered by Tech Bulletin and Warranty, I bought replacement radiator and WP. They are still NIB in the garage. Dealer found warped heads, intake, etc.
Anybody need a NIB rad and WP for 2015 Sierra with 4.6L, LOL?
I had multiple cars with the crimped end tanks and only one leaked at the crimp after 10 years or so. One developed a leak in the tubes, just as any other radiator would. And some were well over 10 years old with no issues at all.
I had multiple cars with the crimped end tanks and only one leaked at the crimp after 10 years or so. One developed a leak in the tubes, just as any other radiator would. And some were well over 10 years old with no issues at all.
Like I've said previously, I've had one in my car since 09, it was there when I bought it. The only thing that has leaked is the drain plug because its plastic and wears out easily.. Replaced that a few years ago and now knowing how that part is weak I drain the radiator by removing the lower hose.
Called the shops in my area about a re core...ball park price of 1,000.00...eeks!😲. Managed to find a distributor who carries it, so I bit and ordered one. Should be here tomorrow...I'll let you know😀
I wonder how many of the members suggesting a re-core have had one done lately. I had the radiator in my 68 Toro re-cored in the summer of 2019. The final bill was over $800.00.
I wonder how many of the members suggesting a re-core have had one done lately. I had the radiator in my 68 Toro re-cored in the summer of 2019. The final bill was over $800.00.
And that assumes you can find a radiator shop anymore. The closest remaining one to me is an hour each way.
My original 1994 S10 radiator lasted 13 years. After that, the replacements were failing every three to four years. My truck is an SS model and has very stiff springs and this could have contributed to the short life?. I am still driving the S10 after all these years and with over 270,000 miles. I do miss the days when you could just go to a radiator shop for a re-core.
WOW, thats big bucks for a recore. I worked in a rad shop in 1977 and I could do that in a half hour if all went well an hour tops if I had problems. So its the cost of the core I guess? I'm retired but maybe I should consider opening a shop.
Well- it's down to whether you install a generic radiator and keep the car going, or wait for good tanks and a shop that can/will do the job.
We're down to one shop here, as late as 8 years ago there were four. The one remaining knows he's the only game in town now unless you drive an hour. After the last reaming he gave me on a heater core job, I drive an hour.
Called the shops in my area about a re core...ball park price of 1,000.00...eeks!😲. Managed to find a distributor who carries it, so I bit and ordered one. Should be here tomorrow...I'll let you know😀
EEK is right! I paid $400 four years ago in the Denver Metro area.
Since my search for the replacement radiator didn't bear the results I was looking for, I came up with a backup plan.
I checked the possibility of a radiator for a '70 big block Chevelle, and here's what I came up with...
This is Spectra Premium part number CU 351. It's copper/brass (no plastic tanks), and hare the specs:
2" core thickness
2 rows
overall height 18 3/4"
overall width 33 1/4"
center to center of upper and lower hoses 35"
Here's the specs on CU165 (the actual replacement)
1 3/4" core thickness
2 rows
overall height 18 1/2"
overall width 33 1/4"
center to center of upper and lower hoses 34 1/2"
