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I have been looking at some prefab metal buildings and I am looking for pros and cons. 10 years ago I would have just constructed the building myself, but my friends list to help has gotten really short. I have been quoted 9600 bucks for a 22’x40’ with 10’ walls, a 10x8 roll up door, and a standard man door, installed on my existing concrete pad. I could probably construct a building, with the concrete pad for the same money, but I don’t have the help to construct, so I’m shopping for a prefab. Thanks in advance
I assume you are talking about a red iron, metal sided building. More of a kit than "pre-fab". I put up a 28x32 metal structure for my shop. I actually found this complete but assembled about 20 miles away - the seller had bought it and never erected it. I put it up myself with one other guy helping me. These buildings require engineered footings and foundation in addition to the slab. That ended up costing me more than the building "kit". A pole structure is less expensive. I've erected four of those on the farm (barns, garage, and strorage building). I'm in the process of putting up a 40x80 pole building since that 28x32 is hilariously too small.
no, i am talking about galvanized 12 gauge tubing for the inner structure, not the red iron. i know some that fabricates the red iron buildings but they didn't want to do a small building like what i want. i will be doing a 22' deep 30-40 wide, depending on what the county will let me install.
no, i am talking about galvanized 12 gauge tubing for the inner structure, not the red iron. i know some that fabricates the red iron buildings but they didn't want to do a small building like what i want. i will be doing a 22' deep 30-40 wide, depending on what the county will let me install.
Those are just carports with sides. Can you even get one that large? I guess if you don't live in an area prone to heavy snow or high winds, you might be OK.I know how heavy the roll up door was that I used on my metal building. I'm not sure one of those tube frame buildings could support it.
[QUOTE=joe_padavano;. I'm in the process of putting up a 40x80 pole building since that 28x32 is hilariously too small.[/QUOTE]i put up a 42x60 with 16 ft truss height.they had the poles set and went home for the day so we went out and stood in the middle and told the wife "i shoulda went bigger"she just shook her head and walked away.i wish i had another 20 ft.and i wish i would have put 2 ft overhangs on the ends.
My father; Oldsguy, built one similar to the one Joe provided a picture of. It's quite sturdy, but as I recall he spent well over $10k constructing it. You might send him a PM, I don't know how often he checks the site.
My father; Oldsguy, built one similar to the one Joe provided a picture of. It's quite sturdy, but as I recall he spent well over $10k constructing it.
Yeah, I don't doubt that. In my case the complete building kit that I got from someone who had previously bought it but never assembled it was probably half price at $5500. The footings, foundation, and slab came to an additional $9K. The roll up door and entry door were something like $1500 total. I did all the work (other than pouring concrete) myself. I'd expect well over $20K to have it done. Of course that doesn't include insulation, electrical, lighting, etc. It also doesn't include renting the backhoe, off-road forklift, and scissor lift I needed to do the grading and assembly.
It definitely adds up. Oldsguy had the foundation poured, the building and attached car port constructed, electrical added, spray foam installed and a man cave built in the corner. I texted him a link.
It definitely adds up. Oldsguy had the foundation poured, the building and attached car port constructed, electrical added, spray foam installed and a man cave built in the corner. I texted him a link.
Getting all that done for even under $20K was a steal.
Hi, Jesse texted me about this thread. Yes Joe it did cost me well over 20K to put up. I purchased the building from a local metal building place, there a lots of them down here in Northern Texas I guess they are pretty popular here. To the OP, Duane you may consider the durability of the building that you mentioned. As Joe said, they may not be as sturdy as a red metal framed building. Kentucky is a little further south than Missouri and I spent 15+ years there and almost every winter we had snow/ice storms, not sure about there. You have to consider that extra load on the building. Here we get a lot of wind and that can stress a building too. I fully believe that the building I put up which is like the one Joe pictured will serve my needs with no problems. As Joe mentioned, every aspect of putting it up costs. The building itself, the site work, the pad, the electrical, the plumbing (if you plan to do that), the insulation (which I think you should definitely do) all adds up and should be considered. And then any finish work. I took the easy way out and hired an erection team to do the work for me. If I had not I would have had to rent a forklift or man lift to aid in the erection as well and get a better air compressor because I just don't see how you can easily put that thing together without a good air impact driver, or if the building is welded as mine was, then a good welder.
I purchased my building from Olympia Steel Buildings (2009). Basically same as Joe's.
Dimensions: 30'W x 40'L x 14'7"H (center; 14'0"H side walls) (145 mph wind speed)
Concrete pad (contract): $6500
Building (three windows, one entrance door) (including freight): $15,450
Insulated Overhead Garage Doors x2 (wind speed 135 mph) w/ windows (installed [contract]-non-electric): x1 @ 13'H x 10'W ($2200); x1 @ 8'H x 7'W ($1100): $3300
Electrical (I installed all electrical): $2200
General Contractor Crew (Contract) (close friend): $4,000 Equipment Rentals: $1,000
Total Cost: $32,450 (~$27/sq.ft)
The other thing to keep in mind is the potential need for permits where you live. I'm in a agricultural area and have a 55 ac. farm. No permits are required in my county for ag buildings, so that wasn't an issue. My building came with all the engineering drawings and documentation I would have needed to get a permit, however.
Essentially (for my building) you call, speak to an engineer, provide answers to questions (#doors, #windows, dimensions, materials, etc.) they drop it into a CAD program, CAD data is fed to metal fabrication, steel girders, panels, roofing, etc. manufactured, blueprints (eng. drawings, documentation) printed, building materials loaded onto trailer then sent to site (my house). I did require building permit - but, peanuts ($85?) for the permit in my area of Podunk, U.S.A.
thanks for the input guys, i kinda thought those garage kits were a little cheap. guess i will draw up the plans and just build a pole building. i can build it myself with concrete for under 10k with concrete, might have to pony up and hire a friend of mine and his crew to come put it up.
I've put up several pole buildings on the farm. Today's pressure treated lumber is crap. I strongly suggest Perma-Columns with the concrete base that goes in the ground and laminated triple 2x6 uprights. I'm using these for my new building.
I use similar material(s) & assembly methods as the Perma-Columns. The one thing you won't see me do is attach a wood base board which touches (water saturated) soil - they might get a couple years out of those boards.
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
I've put up several pole buildings on the farm. Today's pressure treated lumber is crap. I strongly suggest Perma-Columns with the concrete base that goes in the ground and laminated triple 2x6 uprights. I'm using these for my new building.
In 2018 I built a 28x36 pole barn with a 12x36 second floor. The shell was done by the local Amish. The walls are 12' high. Total cost was $33,292.46 ($33.03/sf for the base sf and $23.12/sf if you include the upstairs) . It's got plumbing (bathroom) and 220V electric, I did the plumbing and electric myself and a lot of the materials besides the barn and slab were "sourced" very inexpensively (I work for a demolition company). I formed the slab and worked with a buddy to place it. The trusses are 2' on center so I can put solar panels on in the future. The electrical was sized for that as well. The total price includes the 9000 lb Rotary 2 post I purchased used at auction from a local Ford dealership
I can weld but I personally like the pole barn because its wood and its easy to make brackets, shelves, etc
Here are a couple pics:
Last edited by allyolds68; February 3rd, 2023 at 01:01 PM.
The trusses are 2' on center so I can put solar panels on in the future.
Wow, that's a lot of trusses to buy and place! I went with 4' on center and ag-application trusses, but then we don't get as much snow as you do.
One of my buildings is a 20x24 garage. It has a 12:12 roof pitch to also allow for second story storage. I used rafters on that one to maximize the second story space.
I thought same on number of trusses to place; good job on roof overall. I'd have increased the number of sticks used on exterior walls w/ a minimum of 18" on center.
Not really necessary with metal panels. My pole buildings look the same.
Disagree. Metal panels are not load-bearing. You have a second story wood floor joist assembly in each of your pole barns? Weight, weight, weight. Everyone has an opinion, mine doesn't agree with yours.
Disagree. Metal panels are not load-bearing. You have a second story wood floor joist assembly in each of your pole barns? Weight, weight, weight. Everyone has an opinion, mine doesn't agree with yours.
The posts and headers are sized for that. That's the whole point of a pole building.
Ain't that the truth. I have been helping a friend build a front porch/deck on a double wide he purchased to use as temporary housing until he gets his permanent homestead built. He used some 16 foot 4X6 pressure treated lumber for the uprights and within a month they have warped like crazy. The decking was screwed in as tightly together as possible and they have shrunk so much there are 1/8 inch gaps between some of them now. The lumber is so green and so new. It's terrible.
Dan - Thanks. I've purchased a fair amount of pressure-treated timber in the past & present. Much (of course) has to do w/ where you purchase the product and that should go w/o saying. But, as a "general" statement, the big-box stores, who carry $hit lumber to begin with, carry even $hittier pressure treated lumber. The bad part is we're paying out the keester for these disgusting products and no one appears to give a rat's you know what...
So true, we found that out. My friend bought the majority of his lumber from a big box store but needed some in a pinch and drove to the closest place which was an Ace Hardware store in a smaller town. That lumber was much cleaner and straighter as well, time will tell if it was dryer but it felt lighter anyway.
I purchased my building from Olympia Steel Buildings (2009). Basically same as Joe's.
Dimensions: 30'W x 40'L x 14'7"H (center; 14'0"H side walls) (145 mph wind speed)
Concrete pad (contract): $6500
Building (three windows, one entrance door) (including freight): $15,450
Insulated Overhead Garage Doors x2 (wind speed 135 mph) w/ windows (installed [contract]-non-electric): x1 @ 13'H x 10'W ($2200); x1 @ 8'H x 7'W ($1100): $3300
Electrical (I installed all electrical): $2200
General Contractor Crew (Contract) (close friend): $4,000 Equipment Rentals: $1,000
Total Cost: $32,450 (~$27/sq.ft)
Hey Norm any inside pics?
I am considering something similar.
Hope it doesn't cost 50% more now.
Might have to go with a little steeper pitch based on the snow load here.
Great ideas..If only I could find property that would let me simply construct a shop..Sarasota county isn’t friendly to that. They want a home plus a shop constructed in ag zoned only
Dan - Thanks. I got about 6 years life from the stove. During that time I changed the chimney ducts twice. When running solidly & stoked well it did a fair job of heating - enough to take chill out of the air when outdoor temps were ~32°F. I didn't install insulation because I live in a high humidity area - mold is easily trapped behind insulation. I didn't want the expense of fabricating (with insulation) for climate-control (e.g. A/C, HVAC, etc.) to maintain humidity, temp., etc. - too costly. The stove is gone. If I really need heat, I have a portable propane torpedo heater. Thought many times of installing a proper ceiling or wall mounted unit but the expense far outweighs the benefit for me at least.
February 1st, 2023, 10:27 AM
