Wierd stuff is starting to happen to my car. Get one problem fixed and everything is working perfectly. Something else happens.
1995 98 Regency elite
Rear power windows worked fine last week. Then the passenger side decided it wouldn't work off the master drivers switch, but it would work on it's own individual switch.
So I replaced the drivers master switch. Seemed to clear up the problem. Wheeee!!! ratsa frigga bracka grrrrr!!! Both the rear windows won't work off the drivers switch, and they won't work at each door. (Yup, I made sure the power lockout was not the problem first) I even tried another master power door switch, same thing. BTW both the front windows work perfect.
Anyone got any experience with power windows?
I highly doubt it's the door switches, but I haven't taken the doors apart yet to check for power continuity.

Paul, Joe, Jesse, Dan?? Any of you have a good suggestion?

 

Gahhhh. I hate electrical problems. I tried to help a guy with a Ford SHO figure the same kind of problem out. I would be willing to bet on faulty wires or a connection someplace, probably in the driver's door. The reason I say this is that is the door that gets open and closed the most, it is also the door that is most likely to have a window down when it rains so there is a greater chance of corrosion there. You should get a wiring diagram or service manual to find out exactly how the motors, switches and wiring are done. Have you had the inner door panel completely off and have you had a chance to do a visual on all the wiring? I feel for you, as I said, I hate electrical problems.

 

I don't have a wiring diagram for the later FWD cars, but on the 80s RWD cars the power for the other doors passes through the driver's door and master switch. If the switch is good, check the terminals in the connector (which can corrode, heat up, and melt). Assuming that's good, I would suspect a break in the wire bundle where it passes from the door to the door jamb. Since the driver's door typically gets much more use than the others, these wires tend to break first.

 

Hey, I know that guy you helped with the SHO!

I would take all of the connectors apart and spray them really good with electrical cleaner. I had light problems in a 94 Chrysler LeBaron I owned and I cured them by cleaning the connectors really well. That is a first step at least.

 

I can access the front master window switch and contact pad without taking the whole door panel off. (Torx 20 - 2 screws later the whole drivers side control panel will just pop out) The switch contacts are really clean. So is the contact pad. Everything looks like it just came out of the factory. Sprayed them with electrical contact cleaner and then used compressed air to blow clean. Still the same problem. So it doesn't look like the switch. Will check the boot between the A pillar and door this weekend for broken wires.
Come to think of it, Joe and Dan, I had this exact problem with my 83 Regency Brougham and it was exactly what you said, broken wires. They were half way through the boot. If this is the same thing, it shouldn't be too hard to fix. Only thing I'm hoping is any breaks aren't too close to the A pillar because it's a real pain to move everything under the dash to get that access. I'll let you know how it turns out.
My brother in law was just here and suggested checking to see if there's 2 sets of fuses. So I did. Nope. There is a circuit breaker for the power windows and sunroof, but that's it.

 

The wires through the A pillar may be the culprit. Hope you get it nailed.

 

Keep us posted. Good luck.

 

Took a good look at the A pillar and wire conduit when I went out to the car today. Holy yuch! There' no room to just squeeze the boot back without taking the door off. Got no choice. Have to unclip all the wiring from the door so I can get a long enough run to work on. Good thing it's going to be nice out.
Hey, BTW we've got champ car races all weekend long. Sizzzzzllle. Gonna be a great weekend.

 

Instead of removing the door you should probably just take the door panel off and check the wires inside the door. You will probably have to remove the door panel to take the door off anyways. This way you can check out those wires inside the door for pinching or wear before going through all of the trouble of taking the entire door off.

Then again, maybe you are the kind of guy that wouldn't mind driving around without a door on your car. I know I wouldn't care. As long as the cops don't pull me over.

 

Yup, a lift kit, 4X4 no door 98. Then again, who would need the power windows or door locks with that setup???
Hi Jesse. Ya, I"m going to take the panel off and disconnect all the wires, pull them back through the door opening and slide the boot so I can see if there's any damage closer to the A pillar. I kind of doubt that the wires in the door itself are the problem. Most likely where the boot is. Let ya know when its done.