Please help me!!!!!!!!
#121
Before I go one last thing here, if you have spark, you may be 1 position out if the rotor didn't line up just correct with the number 1 plug, move the distributor like Oldscutlass mentioned until it fires up. If its running really ruff just move the plugs wires clockwise one position, then get the timing in." Only if its out 1 placement"
Cheers
Eric
Cheers
Eric
#122
I think you are getting close. I am expecting that response saying she is running. By the way, buy a factory service manual and not a Chilton manual. Some people should not be making recommendations. Ebay will have plenty of factory service manuals. The prices will vary considerably.
#123
#130
#132
#133
the old delco number is d1007.this is the points/condenser all in one.remove the rotor and loosen the 2 screws holding the points a couple turns BUT do not take them out,reason:you drop em below the point plate they are hell to fish out.also there will be a little capsule with the points this is the grease for the rubbing block,put a little and i mean a little on the edge of the rubbing block the rest behind it so it can rub off on the cam of the distributor.alot of times if they are preset you can put the points in and press them against the screws and tighten and be real close on dwell to the point it will start and run.
#134
the old delco number is d1007.this is the points/condenser all in one.remove the rotor and loosen the 2 screws holding the points a couple turns BUT do not take them out,reason:you drop em below the point plate they are hell to fish out.also there will be a little capsule with the points this is the grease for the rubbing block,put a little and i mean a little on the edge of the rubbing block the rest behind it so it can rub off on the cam of the distributor.alot of times if they are preset you can put the points in and press them against the screws and tighten and be real close on dwell to the point it will start and run.
#135
there is the old saying"you learn from your mistakes"this may be frustrating as hell but the knowledge you gain from it will be priceless.electrical gremlins can make you pull hair,believe me.just restored an 85 el camino this spring got it together and could not for the life of me get the left front turn signal to work.fought that thing off and on for 2 weeks.finally thought to change the socket and sure as heck that was it,but testing with a test light and meter said it was good.
#136
#1 doesn't have to be pointed at the #1 cylinder; it just has to line up with a terminal on the cap and THAT terminal is where you start the firing order COUNTER CLOCKWISE ON AN OLDS.
Have you verified power to the coil?
Power to the points?
Also, 0* is TDC, but it'll run better once fired, if you start at 16.
Have you verified power to the coil?
Power to the points?
Also, 0* is TDC, but it'll run better once fired, if you start at 16.
#137
Pick up one of these when you get a chance. One of the best tools you can have.
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#138
#1 doesn't have to be pointed at the #1 cylinder; it just has to line up with a terminal on the cap and THAT terminal is where you start the firing order COUNTER CLOCKWISE ON AN OLDS.
Have you verified power to the coil?
Power to the points?
Also, 0* is TDC, but it'll run better once fired, if you start at 16.
Have you verified power to the coil?
Power to the points?
Also, 0* is TDC, but it'll run better once fired, if you start at 16.
Im getting power to the coil as I tested the power and the ground that running from the Dis.
Power to Points?
#139
Pick up one of these when you get a chance. One of the best tools you can have.
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Very True will order tomorrow Its cheap too thats a great deal
#140
there is the old saying"you learn from your mistakes"this may be frustrating as hell but the knowledge you gain from it will be priceless.electrical gremlins can make you pull hair,believe me.just restored an 85 el camino this spring got it together and could not for the life of me get the left front turn signal to work.fought that thing off and on for 2 weeks.finally thought to change the socket and sure as heck that was it,but testing with a test light and meter said it was good.
#145
#146
The car was running before he pulled the distributor the change the intake manifold gaskets. I am not sure he should start throwing parts at it. Granted he may have burned the points but if was not getting any power to them that would not be the case. At the end of the day however, it might make sense to replace the points and the coil. At least you know they are good. If that does not fix it, it is time to call somebody to help. I don't think there is anything else we can recommend.
#147
The car was running before he pulled the distributor the change the intake manifold gaskets. I am not sure he should start throwing parts at it. Granted he may have burned the points but if was not getting any power to them that would not be the case. At the end of the day however, it might make sense to replace the points and the coil. At least you know they are good. If that does not fix it, it is time to call somebody to help. I don't think there is anything else we can recommend.
#148
The car was running before he pulled the distributor the change the intake manifold gaskets. I am not sure he should start throwing parts at it. Granted he may have burned the points but if was not getting any power to them that would not be the case. At the end of the day however, it might make sense to replace the points and the coil. At least you know they are good. If that does not fix it, it is time to call somebody to help. I don't think there is anything else we can recommend.
#149
I'm late to this game and I'm not going to start recommending anything in the way of parts(you have many experts who know there way around a distributor here already) but when you finally get that engine running if mine I would start replacing all the wires from around or near that distributor.Someone has hacked that wiring in the past badly and It has caused a lot confusion and probably- maybe some of your issues with starting. It sorta looks like there might have been a major short there at sometime... Just a thought ...Tedd
And as a after thought... I've always been able to see if points were burnt just by looking at the contact pads or placing a screwdriver across them and see if they sparked. If not work backwards till you get juice.... Best of luck and a Happy New Year.
And as a after thought... I've always been able to see if points were burnt just by looking at the contact pads or placing a screwdriver across them and see if they sparked. If not work backwards till you get juice.... Best of luck and a Happy New Year.
Last edited by Tedd Thompson; January 1st, 2018 at 08:38 AM.
#150
I'm late to this game and I'm not going to start recommending anything in the way of parts(you have many experts who know there way around a distributor here already) but when you finally get that engine running if mine I would start replacing all the wires from around or near that distributor.Someone has hacked that wiring in the past badly and It has caused a lot confusion and probably- maybe some of your issues with starting. It sorta looks like there might have been a major short there at sometime... Just a thought ...Tedd
And as a after thought... I've always been able to see if points were burnt just by looking at the contact pads or placing a screwdriver across them and see if they sparked. If not work backwards till you get juice.... Best of luck and a Happy New Year.
And as a after thought... I've always been able to see if points were burnt just by looking at the contact pads or placing a screwdriver across them and see if they sparked. If not work backwards till you get juice.... Best of luck and a Happy New Year.
Thanks for the comment. The wires are how they came from the factory. They were taped by me. They are all the way they should be I tapped them to give it a fresher look because the old tape was dry and brittle. I just tapped them with the job I did to them this past week all are tapped the way they were together from the factory I didn't going any together or crossed any
#151
Wait I just tried this with the key in (on) position and the black cord on the meter running to the (-) side of the coil and the red to the (+) side of the coil and Im not getting 12 volts with all wires hooked up on coil
#156
back in post 83 i said how to test these.but again.pull cap remove wire from - side of coil.with meter set to ohms touch one lead to the wire from the coil the other lead to the screw holding the wire onto the points,meter should read 0
#157
#160
easy to do only hard if you make it hard.as i said unscrew the 2 holddown screws but DO NOT remove them.they will need to be out 2 or 3 turns,the notch on the bottom of the points "in that pic"will set over the screw first then rotate it around and get the other one in its notch it will slide under the second screw but takes a little finesse.once there press the points towards the main shaft it just needs to bottom against the back screw so you don't need to press that hard,then tighten.put the wire back on the points, rotor and cap on make sure all coil wires are where they need to be and see if it starts.if not pull a wire and check for spark.