What do guys use to spray on the underside of regular drivers? I bought a 95 Olds from a guy that said he oiled the underside but I didn't ask with what specificallylly. For being a PA car its actually in good condition on the underside. Is it a home mix concoction? I've also read up on Fluid Film with mixed testimonials.

 

In another lifetime, my friends raced Series 1 and 2 Land Rovers in what they called trials. Some were conducted along ocean hills and beaches in North Wales.

Land Rovers were made of aluminum. Salt attacks aluminum faster than it does steel.

To prep for those races, they sprayed the entire undersides with a mixture of grease and kerosene. It stuck well and it protected the vehicles perfectly.

You wouldn't want to put that on your car though, because the kerosene is so "aromatic."

I tell you this to explain that you can come up with a simple mixture that will work well. Today I'd start with a base of synthetic grease and light synthetic oil.

Pour it into the bottoms of the doors too. Put it everywhere you've observed our classics be prone to rust.

 

I have a ols buddy who used to squirt used engine oil all over underneath and inside doors, etc when ever something was apart. I figured that was a good idea but what a mess with oil dripping out of car where you park it!!!>???

 

I use Fluidfilm. Has always worked well for me, but depending on usage, it needs regular applications (I do once a year).

 

Fluid Film or Wool Wax are good compromises. They are both lanolin based coatings available in aerosol or bulk. Strong smell, though I don’t find it off putting, lasts for a few days until they gas out. They are waxy & slimy, not a treat to go back and work on or in areas that have been treated. As for waste oil? I wouldn’t use if only for the stench & mess, but it helps and flows out well in cavities. Don’t think it would be durable in horizontals. WD40? Wouldn’t hold up. Silicone? Haven’t tried it but always used on snowblowers & plows, it repels water but doesn’t last long.

Traditional wax rustproofing? Just as messy as lanolins but probably a tad more durable. I would consider Cosmoline to be a variant of this category that might be more durable yet.

I use the lanolins on daily drivers and recoat spots when changing oil. On the one vehicle that gets free dealer oil changes, I just recoat the 4 corners of suspension and adjacent when rotating the tires, the rest is plastic shields that were removed for original coating, I figure those areas are still ok.

All These coatings, IMO, are unsuitable for any sunny day vehicle, they’re all too messy.

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I've used FluidFilm before on electronic connections (ham radio, electric fan, battery cable terminals, etc.), it works great.

 

Looks to be almost 50% Fluid Film type stuff used as a poor mans poll. Ill get online and see who carries it.

 

Should be a shop or business in your area that performs these services
here in Canada we have Krown rustproof among many others

 

Definitely isn’t anything close being in the boonies. Besides, I need something to do.😁

 

I use Fluid Film on my daily drivers - a gallon can lasted me four winters on two vehicles applying once per year.

 

Just a heads up, Wool Wax has product in black, they also have white/yellow, Fluid Film white/yellow only.

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FluidFilm is now available in black.

 

Krown, Fluid Film, LPS2. Do something. I've been having my F250 sauced with Krown annually for 13 years. No rot.
You can purchase Krown in spray cans, gallons, 5 gallons, 55 gallon drums.
The 442 got the spray cans in all the right spots.

Used oil has corrosive acids in it.

https://www.krown.com/en/
https://www.krown.com/en/locations/u...east-rochester

$160/annually.
My truck has not depreciated because its not a rot box. Dealers are constantly asking to buy it for what I paid it for.

Takes about an hour if you have Krown do it. Make sure they sauce the sczhit out of it. One branch here doesn't do it as heavily as the main branch.
If you drive it through salt I suggest annual treatment. It has to be reapplied every 364 days for the 10 year warranty to apply.
If you live in non-salt but damp humid regions I suggest doing it at least once.

-Don't park it on concrete, it will stain.
-It will drip for 2 weeks.
-Its water soluble.
-It creeps, lubricates, has inhibitors.
-It readily washes off black top, coveralls, and body parts.
-The undercarriage gets slimy to work on after 13 years of being sauced.
-It will swell some rubber items.
-Its designed to be reapplied annually.
-The alternative is ROT. Ill take all the negatives over rot.

I do see another produce out there called Corrosion Pro Plus. From what I'm told its a one and done application $1500.

Below pics are right after an application on my 2011 F250. This truck has been driven in salt.

 

I also would highly recommend Krown. It is by far much cleaner than spraying oil and you will be happy with the long term results.

 

A lot of folks use Fluid Film or Pam (yes, the cooking spray!) for rust prevention. Fluid Film seems to get mixed reviews, but it's definitely popular for its ease of use. Some people swear by homemade mixes, like used motor oil and kerosene, though that can be messy. If your car's in good shape, just keeping up with it regularly will help maintain it!