Odd no start issue
#1
Odd no start issue
I went to take my 72 cutlass out of storage turned the key turned over the engine fired I let off the starter and it died. If I put a jumper from the distributor to the fuse panel it will run all day. I have power to the distributor with the key on just can't figure why it won't stay running
#2
You have HEI, right?
There is a problem in the wire between the ignition switch and the HEI.
The bypass wire from the starter solenoid to the coil (now the HEI) is powering up while cranking, but once you release the key, you're on the running circuit, which is not providing enough juice.
Either the original resistance wire is still hooked up (it shouldn't be) and isn't supplying enough current (probably because of a bad or broken connection), or there is some other break in the line.
Since HEI needs a full 12V to run properly, you need to check to see whether someone else already ran a 12V wire to replace the resistance wire, and their connection failed (ie: wires twisted together, not soldered), or whether there is a problem with the original wire.
The heavy pink wire from your ignition switch is the one you need.
- Eric
There is a problem in the wire between the ignition switch and the HEI.
The bypass wire from the starter solenoid to the coil (now the HEI) is powering up while cranking, but once you release the key, you're on the running circuit, which is not providing enough juice.
Either the original resistance wire is still hooked up (it shouldn't be) and isn't supplying enough current (probably because of a bad or broken connection), or there is some other break in the line.
Since HEI needs a full 12V to run properly, you need to check to see whether someone else already ran a 12V wire to replace the resistance wire, and their connection failed (ie: wires twisted together, not soldered), or whether there is a problem with the original wire.
The heavy pink wire from your ignition switch is the one you need.
- Eric
#3
You have HEI, right?
There is a problem in the wire between the ignition switch and the HEI.
The bypass wire from the starter solenoid to the coil (now the HEI) is powering up while cranking, but once you release the key, you're on the running circuit, which is not providing enough juice.
Either the original resistance wire is still hooked up (it shouldn't be) and isn't supplying enough current (probably because of a bad or broken connection), or there is some other break in the line.
Since HEI needs a full 12V to run properly, you need to check to see whether someone else already ran a 12V wire to replace the resistance wire, and their connection failed (ie: wires twisted together, not soldered), or whether there is a problem with the original wire.
The heavy pink wire from your ignition switch is the one you need.
- Eric
There is a problem in the wire between the ignition switch and the HEI.
The bypass wire from the starter solenoid to the coil (now the HEI) is powering up while cranking, but once you release the key, you're on the running circuit, which is not providing enough juice.
Either the original resistance wire is still hooked up (it shouldn't be) and isn't supplying enough current (probably because of a bad or broken connection), or there is some other break in the line.
Since HEI needs a full 12V to run properly, you need to check to see whether someone else already ran a 12V wire to replace the resistance wire, and their connection failed (ie: wires twisted together, not soldered), or whether there is a problem with the original wire.
The heavy pink wire from your ignition switch is the one you need.
- Eric
#5
I agree with Eric, you have a problem with what ever you are using to supply your HEI, as you stated already a jumper will allow it to run all day.
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