I now have one of these intakes and the bolt holes will not line up with the heads like the intake is to tall.1967 442 tri power intake from the Parts Place going on a 400. Anyone run into this before?

 

What engine are you trying to put it on ?
Tri-carburation manifolds only fit 400 , 425 , or 455 engines .

 

I moved the posts to a new thread since the other one was over 10 years old.

Is this the intake you have?

https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/pro...n-398238/98705

 

That is the one trying to put it on a 67 400. I got the Lovko tri power kit and so far it has been problem after problem and I do this for a living. I would hate to see some one try and do this at home that doesn't have a ton of experience.

 

Have you tried simply dropping it on the motor with no gasket as a test? Have the heads or block been cut? Are you using end seals or not?

 

It will just barely bolt up using a valley pan style gasket which I personally do not like. Got it all together and put coolant in it and it ran right out the corner of the head without pressure on it. So I tried a set of fiber gaskets and there is no way they will bolt up as it sits the intake up to high. I do not use the rubber end gasket only right stuff silicone . I am sure the engine has been rebuilt sometime in the past but I do not know what was done to it as it is a customers car that he bought about a year ago. When I took the valley pan out and measured it the bottom of the gasket was compressed but not the top. The car originally had a 4 barrel iron intake on it when it came in with fiber gaskets that sealed fine. This new intake is not cooperating though.

 

Joe's is asking the right questions. If the heads or block were cut other than a slight skin cut, the angles will change and you have to have the intake cut to match up with the heads.

 

So, first, I have no experience with the quality of the repro intakes. I've never had an issue with factory parts, even with milled heads. Second, get over your problem with the stock gasket. If installed per the instructions in the Chassis Service Manual (dry fit the locating bosses in the corners, use RTV around the ports), the work fine. Olds built something like 20 MILLION motors using these gaskets, with no issues. That's all I've ever used in half a century of building these motors. The thicker aftermarket gaskets will obviously only exacerbate the problem. Your only other option is to get your brand new intake skim cut to increase clearances.

 

The surfaces are at 90 degree angles. This isn't a Chevy. The angles do NOT change when the heads or block are milled. What happens is that the bolt holes and ports get closer to the crank, which means that the intake surfaces get closer together by 0.707 times the amount cut per side.

 

Joe thank you for correcting me. Guy

 

I forgot to add in my previous post that I had to have the intake cut to get the valley pan to work in the first place.They took .020 off each side. If these where new heads I would have no problem using a valley pan style gasket but they are not and the surfaces are not perfect. Sealant was used and it still leaked. I only asked this question to know if anyone else had run into this with this particular intake. It is quite obvious it will have to be cut again. I have been doing this for 33 years and never run into something this far off. The machinist doesn't even want to cut it again because it is so hard it is ate up his tooling. I am just pissed with the whole kit. None of the carbs had vacuum ports so I had to drill and tap the bases for the brakes, pcv and for a ported supply for the distributor. All the supplied fuel lines leak due to bad flares. None of the carb linkages where right all required adjustment by bending to even go in the holes. The carb linkages where not drilled correctly and had to be redrilled. The choke spring housing was made incorrectly and wouldn't bolt to the intake. The exaust cut offs didn't come with a gasket for either side. It has just been a nightmare in a box.

 

Shortfuze - you stated that with the fiber intake gasket you could see crush at the bottom but not at the top; have you verified that the intake manifold surfaces are machined finished at 90* to each other? There have been many reports that the aftermarket manifolds, particularly those made in China, are lacking in quality control and require corrective machining. I agree with Joe about the stock valley pan gasket as that is all I have ever used with both stock intakes and aftermarket intakes.

 

If it comes from China, you can safely assume it lacks in quality control. Well, QC that's worth a flip, anyway. They totally rely on "close enough, send it" mentality.

 

I blame the supplier who wants cheap parts made overseas. China just makes what they asked for.

 

The valley pan was what was crushed on the bottom but not on the top. The car came in with fiber gaskets and that was what I wanted to use since the head surface was not perfect and I have had issues on used motors with valley pans leaking coolant before but it wouldn't fit with them. I had no choice but to use the valley pan and it still had to be machined for that to work. I can't stand aftermarket or repop parts but that was what was given to me to use. If this was my car I never would have purchased this I even tried to talk the guy out of it because the car ran so well with what it had and I had a bad feeling to start with.

 

No doubt the importer/distributor owns some of that mess. However, the Communists are largely lacking in ethics. They'll ship whatever they think they can get by with; and they'll lie, cheat, and deceive. Maybe the first batch of stuff is made to spec. Then maybe the quality is reduced until the importer/distributor bitches about it; This assumes the importer/distributor even notices.

That's why they put melamine in baby formula and pet food--melamine fools the common testing for protein content, leading to false-high indications. More profit.
Anti-freeze in toothpaste as a sweetener--more profit
Lead paint on toys--more profit
Counterfeit products--more profit

You name it, the Chinese have lied about it.

Who actually has the steel of their import crankshaft tested to see if it's what they claim? Who tests the heat-treatment?

 

Without a doubt, the importer/distributor owns a big part of the mess. Quality control was always an on going process. The Communists don't have a monopoly on lying.

In a past life I was a "job shop machinist". I machined on materials from all over the world.....Russia, Italy, Korea, Canada, and China, to name a few countries. We manufactured a frame for a robot, and our purchasing department found the CHEAPEST available. The CHEAPEST 4" X 2" X 1/4" steel tube always came from China. I got the frames painted and complete except for tapped holes. Due to the poor uniformity of the steel (soft, gummy spots and hard spots), we broke lots of 1/4-20 taps.

How many people have checked the connecting rods, valve lifters and camshaft blanks whose metal originated in a foreign country.

 

Shortfuse; I feel your frustration, your told your customer DON'T DO IT. Rather than taking your sound advise he did it anyway and now you are stuck with the headache. I know you thought of this but I'm going to say it anyway. set the manifold on the engine with out any gasket, get your feeler gages out and start checking the gaps, front and back, top of ports and the bottoms. That should tell you if you have good mating surfaces and go from there. It may come down to having to get a different intake. If that is the case have your customer look for a genuine Oldsmobile intake, their not cheap if you do find one. But judging by how much time you already have tied up in that junk. He probably could have bought a whole real set up. Good luck to you please keep us posted.

 

Sorry I'm slow just thought of this You can do a blue check also on those surfaces and get a good idea what direction to go.

 

I know one Olds resto guy that says the Parts Place routinely ships many parts that all too often have fit issues.

 

Well I set the intake on and ran feeler gauges all around it and found no gaps. I decided the best course of action rather than keep taking material off the intake was to just slot the bolt holes so I put it in my mill and did just that. I then used the thick intake gasket style it came in with. A previous poster talked about metal differences and boy did I run into that! I understand why my machinist didn't like to cut it. Some holes cut easy some ruined end mills they where so hard. Well it is on now and no more leaks but now we have drivability issues. Runs great going down the except for some spark knock which is a easy fix but will not idle worth a darn. I took a FLIR image of the exaust headers and it appears the front 4 cylinders are not even firing at idle. I also noticed when cutting the intake all the runners in the intake where connected together instead of individual runners. Headaches!