# matching car vs non # matching.
# matching car vs non # matching.
I have a # matching 72 Cutlass S with a # matching 350 in it but I want to remove the 350 and put in a 455? Does # matching really mean much these days? If my car will worth more with the 350 then I'm having a hard time deciding if I should put in the 455 since it will be value vs funner car. I'm just trying to build a fast street car that burn rubber easy. What do you guys think on this issue? I wouldn't keep the 350 long since I'm a home renter and moving it every year or two would be a pain. Does a 455 really make that much more power and what mods or tweaks maybe needed to get it in. You guys have allways been helpfull , thank you...
just a thought....
I am kind of in the same boat, I bought what I thought was a 69 442 convertible but it turned out to be a 69 cutlass s, with a 350 ( 2 bbl for cripessake LOL), 4 speed and a 3.08 posi that is numbers matching, I have had a 455 built for the car, and at the moment I am hanging on to the 350, but I am starting to think is it worth it? what would the car all original and restored be worth? I don't really think it would be that desirable to anyone with the original set up, yes I could have built the 350 olds, and from what i hear it would be a good performer with more rpm then the 455 but being ol skool there is no replacement for displacement and went with a slightly warmed over 455.... haven't driven it yet, so I couldn't tell you if it was worth it, but I think you'd be happy with a 455, and I don't think you would harm the value much if at all, just my 2 cents, that said you could probably get good performance for what you want to do with the 350, a manifold, some exhaust work, a cam, wouldn't be a dog....
Don't get me wrong, I don't think a numbers matching 72 Cutlass will eve be worth big bucks (just do a search on any of the car sales sites). I would do what ever you need to do to thoroughly enjoy your car!
I have a # matching 72 Cutlass S with a # matching 350 in it but I want to remove the 350 and put in a 455? Does # matching really mean much these days? If my car will worth more with the 350 then I'm having a hard time deciding if I should put in the 455 since it will be value vs funner car. I'm just trying to build a fast street car that burn rubber easy. What do you guys think on this issue? I wouldn't keep the 350 long since I'm a home renter and moving it every year or two would be a pain. Does a 455 really make that much more power and what mods or tweaks maybe needed to get it in. You guys have allways been helpfull , thank you...
Steve
X2. I believe it will be more desirable and worth more with the 455 in the long run. Plus you will enjoy the car more too.
455 oldsmobile vs 350 # matching
I just went to look at the 455 that I will be putting a offer $500 or below buy it at core price. The timing chain cover was stamped with 396021F. And both heads Ga (small A). The offer is low because the guy just wants to get rid of the motor and not even sure what he has, he told me it may be a 76. Can you guys help me identify this block and maybe it's stock specs HP & torque. The motor also has a new beefy looking edelbrock carb. The guy has the motor in a classic Ford f-150 truck and says it really fast but he wants to go with the 351 ford. Also said the olds heats up on him but we stay in the desert. He has no history on the motor because he just bought the truck. Any help would be greatfull because if this is a good motor someone may beat me too it. Thanks..
Proof is in the average market prices......not hearsay. Keep that in mind.
Example....
A #'s matching dime a dozen 1970 Cutlass S with pea green interior and turd brown exterior isn't worth dookie.
Whereas
A #'s matching rare 1970 442 in red with black interior 455 engine will be worth at least 5-20x what the above one will be.
IMHO You'd be better off making the 1970 Cutlass S a 442 clone, and make it more attractive in every way possible.
This is why there's more Chevelle SS's, GTO's, '69 z28's on the streets today then were probably made in the factory.
Everyone cloned em because they're more desirable.
BTW - Mine was a 1970 Cutlass S #'s matching.....I just sold the drivetrain complete.
Last edited by Aceshigh; Aug 9, 2011 at 11:22 PM.
Considering how mis-used the term "numbers matching" is these days, it's pretty much meaningless. How a car built before Olds started using VIN derivatives (in 1968) and without a Protect-O-Plate can be "numbers matching" has yet to be explained to me by sellers. Even newer cars like yours somehow magically become "numbers matching" without the original motor. 
Build the car the way you want to, enjoy it, and keep the original block if you care about it. A non-rare Cutlass S will never see the difference in value, frankly.

Build the car the way you want to, enjoy it, and keep the original block if you care about it. A non-rare Cutlass S will never see the difference in value, frankly.
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