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I have read several blogs about whether or not I need the cable kickdown. I don't need a sudden horsepower downshift for passing as I will be installing a floor mount shifter, and I can actually move the lever myself. What has anyone done and how did it work? Recommendations? It seems a pretty complex system for the little need. 350 horses ought to do the job fine without turning it sideways on a downshift. Thoughts?
That is going to depend on what transmission you are running. If it's a th350 you can run it without a kickdown cable if you prefer because the vacuum modulator manages the fluid pressure and you can manually downshift as you see fit. If you have a 2004r or 700r4, those use a TV cable that does much more than just provide kickdown function and without one installed and properly adjusted your transmission won't be long for this world.
That is going to depend on what transmission you are running. If it's a th350 you can run it without a kickdown cable if you prefer because the vacuum modulator manages the fluid pressure and you can manually downshift as you see fit. If you have a 2004r or 700r4, those use a TV cable that does much more than just provide kickdown function and without one installed and properly adjusted your transmission won't be long for this world.
I don't think you will like driving it without the kickdown cable attached. Back in the late 80s my brother-in-law installed a TH350 in his '68 GTO and without the kickdown cable attached it was not nearly as much fun to drive as it was after connecting it. I'd say do as suggested above so you can try it both ways and see which you like better.
I don't think you will like driving it without the kickdown cable attached. Back in the late 80s my brother-in-law installed a TH350 in his '68 GTO and without the kickdown cable attached it was not nearly as much fun to drive as it was after connecting it. I'd say do as suggested above so you can try it both ways and see which you like better.
I will give it a shot, but what I already know is that my differential cannot handle the horses, so better that I have it D/Cd so it won't destroy the rear end and leave me stranded, until I can make enough money to make it lower ratio and LS. Not only am I running out of money, but also I am running out of time! I like fixes that cost only labor!
What rear is in the car? My brother-in-law's '68 GTO had the factory 8.2" 10 bolt with a split carrier and it survived for 20+ years with his crazy driving. The car had a manual transmission and M-50 rear tires, so the diff saw quite a bit of stress.
Unless your rear is a weak 7.5" 10-bolt, don't worry about 350 HP hurting your rear end.
Gramps had a '66 Impala sedan, 283-2bbl w/ a Powerglide that was passed on through the family. By the time it was my turn to be "eligible" for possession, I discovered that the kick-down linkage (a double-jointed affair going from the throttle linkage to god-knows-where on the trans) was not connected to the throttle. When I re-connected it, that 'lil bugger under the hood would chirp the rear tires when you kicked it down into 1st gear around 30 MPH. Prior to that, no kickdown and no ***** below 30 if it had up-shifted by then. I think you'll quickly grow tired of not having a kickdown w/ any AT, sometimes the foot thinks faster than the right hand.
I never did own that Impala, pops "disqualified" me for some long forgotten reason and instead sold it to my best friend instead. So I still got a lot of "seat time" in it through HS before he wrecked it.
Last edited by JohnnyBs68S; February 18th, 2020 at 11:59 AM.
You can remove the kickdown cable and block the hole with a 3/8 freeze plug (I think that’s the size), fill the hole with JB Weld, tap it for a pipe plug, unhook it and wire tie it out of the way, your choice.
I personally would try to make it functional. I love standing on the throttle and seeing the whites of passengers eyes as the tires start to smolder at 30mph.
What rear is in the car? My brother-in-law's '68 GTO had the factory 8.2" 10 bolt with a split carrier and it survived for 20+ years with his crazy driving. The car had a manual transmission and M-50 rear tires, so the diff saw quite a bit of stress.
It is the 7.5" 10 Bolt weak one in a V-6 1980 El Camino that the 68 350 is now in. I don't race it or show off much as a nearly 68 year old, but the first time I forget I will probably blow it.
You can remove the kickdown cable and block the hole with a 3/8 freeze plug (I think that’s the size), fill the hole with JB Weld, tap it for a pipe plug, unhook it and wire tie it out of the way, your choice.
I personally would try to make it functional. I love standing on the throttle and seeing the whites of passengers eyes as the tires start to smolder at 30mph.
As for your LS swap :
Let me know how else I can help. 😎
MY LS swap was Limited Slip. I have already replaced the breathless and champion oil dripper 3.8 Buick for a 68 Olds Ram Rod spec 350 . The 1980 El Camino is starting to look as it should have in 1980, with Olds power!
Unless your rear don't worry about 350 HP hurting your rear end.
Gramps had a '66 Impala sedan, 283-2bbl w/ a Powerglide that was passed on through the family. By the time it was my turn to be "eligible" for possession, I discovered that the kick-down linkage (a double-jointed affair going from the throttle linkage to god-knows-where on the trans) was not connected to the throttle. When I re-connected it, that 'lil bugger under the hood would chirp the rear tires when you kicked it down into 1st gear around 30 MPH. Prior to that, no kickdown and no ***** below 30 if it had up-shifted by then. I think you'll quickly grow tired of not having a kickdown w/ any AT, sometimes the foot thinks faster than the right hand.
I never did own that Impala, pops "disqualified" me for some long forgotten reason and instead sold it to my best friend instead. So I still got a lot of "seat time" in it through HS before he wrecked it.
It is the weak 7.5" 10-bolt, hence the need to eventually get it the hell out of there. One giant leap at a time is what my wallet affords. So far, 350 Olds (blueprinted), TH 350 2300 stall, buckets and console for the interior, new driveline. Next will be the rear end, but not until I have it driving and running again. My bride is beginning to sigh a lot when she sees it. It takes up 58% of the garage soooooo...I think you see the list of priorities.
I've got a 67 with a th350 and my kickdown is disconnected. Nothing really noticeable when daily driving the car, only when I "get on it" at lower speeds; but that's fixed with a flick of the wrist and dropping it to 2nd. I should just remove it and plug the hole, im tired of my trans leaking anyways lol
It is the weak 7.5" 10-bolt, hence the need to eventually get it the hell out of there. One giant leap at a time is what my wallet affords. So far, 350 Olds (blueprinted), TH 350 2300 stall, buckets and console for the interior, new driveline. Next will be the rear end, but not until I have it driving and running again. My bride is beginning to sigh a lot when she sees it. It takes up 58% of the garage soooooo...I think you see the list of priorities.
I had a 1980 Cutlass that I swapped a 1975 350 into that had a 2.28 open diff. I BEAT that car like a red headed step child and, yes, I blew the rear rend....three times....before I was able to afford to install a 3.23 posi from a camaro into my housing.
Hook up the kickdown and down and don't worry about stepping on it. The diff isn't so fragile that it will pop the first time that it downshifts...or even the 1,000th time it does so. Just don't go around with your foot to the floor all the time and you should be just fine.
Last edited by svnt442; February 19th, 2020 at 10:18 PM.
Look what I found on EBAY. It is from Taiwan and takes a month to get for about $15. It looks like a nice solution if you choose to go without the kickdown. cable and if your plugs leak. This one has an O ring!
A car that can't get out of it's own way is less safe than one that actually responds to throttle position.
I was once hit at an intersection because I couldn't get my car kicked across in time. Took out the back of the rear fender, taillight assembly, and rear bumper. A kickdown would have saved those panels.
February 14th, 2020, 10:10 PM
. The 1980 El Camino is starting to look as it should have in 1980, with Olds power! 
