W-27

Guys, i got pulled over tonight by the nices cop that i have ever encountered. He told me i was going too fast and the driver side head light was out, no ticket just a "Warning ticket" (he as a 71 Camaro and loves classics) . I recently purchased (2) new Wagner H5006 (2C1) bulbs (without realizing they where made in China) and after a short time they both burned out. Question: is there a brighter and longer lasting bulb that i can replace it with, perhaps an LED? Any imput is greatly appreciated.

svnt442

https://www.hidnation.com/products/h...conversion-kit

VC455

Wagner claims that their 2c1 halogen sealed beams are made in USA.

If you go the HID route, look at reviews to make sure they have proper light control (so they shine on the road and not so much in other people's eyes).

W-27

Wagner's claims are false. It says rite on the box "Made In China" and they burned out after a few uses.....total junk. Looking at the Autopal HID's as anyone used them?

W-27

Randy, it looks like they nickel and dime you to death. Product looks good but were do you put all the conversion stuff?

83hurstguy

I bought reproduction T3 bulbs from lectric limited. Not cheap, they do alright so far. Not anywhere near as bright as modern headlights.

bccan

I converted to E Code (Nrth Amrcn Right side of road drive) halogens & they are exponentially better than sealed beams BUT they do draw noticeably more power. That may be an advantage for a well conceived HID replacement kit. The E code lenses don’t really stand out visually except in the dark the reflectors are nearly self luminous.

Check out links below for ideas, opinions & experience.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...estion-128544/

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ighting-35029/

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...dlights-99013/

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...cutlass-91160/

W-27

After reading the Daniel Stern article i totally changed my prospective on these kit's. Wagner is made in China that's how i got my warning ticket last night. The cop was really a super cool guy.

RetroRanger

I have some older halogen lights in my car, they've been in there since i bought it 8 years ago. Granted there not made in china but they've been subjected to plenty of banging and removal and assorted other behaviours that make headlights not work, they still work fine.

Point is if both my headlights burnt out after replacement (even w made in china) I would inspect my electrical system as maybe its an overvoltage situation and not a made in china situation.

My old halogens properly aimed work very good in my 72, i can be sensitive to night driving but these seem to work fine.

also the wagners have a 60 day warrenty

W-27

You bring up some valid points but i replaced all (4) high as well as low beams. The high beams are still working but granted anything is possible. I find T3's to be so out dated that they are becoming dangerous to drive with as we age and therefore start to loose vision and technology as moved forward. I am just trying to do the right thing so i will check the electric system to see if they are any issues. I was hoping for a plug and play that would solve the low vision issue. Not sure yet if it exist but the search goes on.

Fun71

My car has Sylvania halogens that I bought at either WalMart of the local auto parts store, and they work perfectly fine in the darkness of the desert. In town with street lights they are way more than adequate, even for my old eyes.

svnt442

I just did a quick search for H5006 LED swap and that was the first thing I came across.

Greg Rogers

I bought Halogen replacement bulbs for my 71 Cutlass, 70 Vista and 56 F100. This was years ago but I think they were Wagners or Sylvanias, been in there for many years and no problems. One other possibility... are you overcharging as in a voltage regulator problem?? That would cause bulbs to burn out maybe sooner that should be. Just a thought...

Schurkey

Headlights are rated for brightness at 12.8 volts. They're rated for service life at 13.2 volts. You want at least 12.8, but not more than 13.2 volts AT THE HEADLIGHT CONNECTORS with the engine running. There should be "ZERO" volts on the ground wire.

Using relays to bypass ancient wire and connectors is a great idea...but the relays are typically not protected properly (with self-resetting circuit breakers for the low beams and the high beams separately) and they often deliver too much voltage to the headlights, cutting the service life dramatically.