72 supreme headlight question
August 23rd, 2018, 05:57 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 24
72 supreme headlight question
Hey everyone I'm thinking about upgrading my headlights on my 72 Cutlass Supreme. I was thinking about going with the halo style or something like that but don't want to have to make modifications to the bowls that they fit into or anything else for that matter. Has anyone replaced their headlights with something like this and had good luck? Looking for part numbers and brand names if possible for lights that I won't have to make modifications. Thanks in advance for the help.
August 24th, 2018, 06:36 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 1,844
Well, good luck with that. The conversion housings that take H4 bulbs and typically have halos or turn signals inside the housing require some minor cutting of the bowl. You can still mount sealed beam or halogen bulbs in the bowl after the modifications and the aiming still works just fine. The stock bowl opening has just enough room for the original connector and is quite shallow, so it's tough to do much without some change. Removing the bowls and modifying them is quite easy, just have to be careful not to break the old plastic that holds the aiming bolts.
I modified the low beam bowls for conversion housings - no problems. I also modified the high beam bowls for 4" air scoops. That is a bit of a problem because the hole becomes larger than where the aiming bumps rest on the bowl, so it can't be correctly used for bulbs any longer. But it looks wicked and my intake temps dropped 50 degrees.
I modified the low beam bowls for conversion housings - no problems. I also modified the high beam bowls for 4" air scoops. That is a bit of a problem because the hole becomes larger than where the aiming bumps rest on the bowl, so it can't be correctly used for bulbs any longer. But it looks wicked and my intake temps dropped 50 degrees.
August 25th, 2018, 03:24 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 24
Well, good luck with that. The conversion housings that take H4 bulbs and typically have halos or turn signals inside the housing require some minor cutting of the bowl. You can still mount sealed beam or halogen bulbs in the bowl after the modifications and the aiming still works just fine. The stock bowl opening has just enough room for the original connector and is quite shallow, so it's tough to do much without some change. Removing the bowls and modifying them is quite easy, just have to be careful not to break the old plastic that holds the aiming bolts.
I modified the low beam bowls for conversion housings - no problems. I also modified the high beam bowls for 4" air scoops. That is a bit of a problem because the hole becomes larger than where the aiming bumps rest on the bowl, so it can't be correctly used for bulbs any longer. But it looks wicked and my intake temps dropped 50 degrees.
I modified the low beam bowls for conversion housings - no problems. I also modified the high beam bowls for 4" air scoops. That is a bit of a problem because the hole becomes larger than where the aiming bumps rest on the bowl, so it can't be correctly used for bulbs any longer. But it looks wicked and my intake temps dropped 50 degrees.
September 15th, 2018, 08:38 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,092
I purchased a set of LED plug and play headlights for the H4 reflectors. They work great and are WAY better than the halogen, plus they run cooler and draw less power. This helps the electrical system on these cars since the power is fed through the headlight switch (bad engineering idea).
September 16th, 2018, 04:09 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 24
I purchased a set of LED plug and play headlights for the H4 reflectors. They work great and are WAY better than the halogen, plus they run cooler and draw less power. This helps the electrical system on these cars since the power is fed through the headlight switch (bad engineering idea).
September 16th, 2018, 05:39 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,092
2 year warranty
RoHS
CE
40 Watts per bulb
IP67 Waterproof
4,800 lumens per bulb
September 17th, 2018, 08:49 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 24
September 17th, 2018, 10:14 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,092
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-002850811
I have the H4 Hella projectors which allow for the lights to be removed so you can install a halogen or LED as the projector allows for light removal. If you have sealed beams, get rid of them, get the Hella H4 housing I referenced above and then buy the LED's I referenced and you will have a bullet proof and SAFE headlight assembly. The sealed beams are junk, unsafe and upgrading them can save your life or the life of your Olds. Lighting tech has advanced a lot in 50 years and sealed beam T3s are unsafe for modern use.
September 18th, 2018, 07:30 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central Indiana
Posts: 5,232
Check the voltage drop between the headlamps and the positive battery cable, and then do the same between the headlamp ground and the negative battery cable. If it’s more than a couple tenths of a blot you need to inspect the wiring. The sockets aren’t insulated, a little corrosion can mean a big drop in voltage. You could also look into installing halogen bulbs and powering the headlights with relays, that eliminates all the factory wiring and long factory wiring. Basically the headlight switch and dimmer switch will trigger the relay, the relay can get power directly from the junction block under the hood. I did this on my 69 years ago, the headlights are plenty bright.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LJ72Cut
The Newbie Forum
18
February 23rd, 2016 11:06 AM
