Hi, the turn signal on my 64 has become loose and is wiggling around. I tried taking the steering wheel off with a wheel puller but it started to bend the wheel where it is pulling on. Is there any other way to get at the screw holding the signal in place without removing the steering whee. thanks.

 

Unfortunately, no.

Really unusual for a wheel to put that kind of resistance. You did remove the nut/washer from the center spline?

 

Yes I removed the nut and washer. I don't think the wheel has ever been removed since the car was made. I just don't want to damage the wheel anymore.

 

Are you using a puller that bolts on? Keep it wet with penetrating oil, and wait for a really cold night, it should pop.

 

It has two pieces that hook on to each side of the steering wheel and it has a middle piece that you screw down on to the center piece. Last night was pretty cold. I worked on it for about two hours and finally stopped when it a started to bend on each side where it hooks on.

 

read post #2 here

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ing-wheel.html

securing the puller to the wheel WITH SPACERS makes a HUGE difference in how much force before things go wrong.

Apply force, then tap the forcing screw on the end.
If no joy, increase forcing screw tightness and vigorosity of hammering to suit.
A bit of heat but not enough to melt the steering wheel plastic couldn't hurt- like a heat gun or hair drier.

Another thing to consider, if you are VERY good at running a drill, would be to make your own new hole thru the steering wheel right in line with the screw you want to access, so that you can get a driver on it and secure it. As a last resort. Of course the drill would be modified so as to JUST BARELY go thru the steering wheel, not all the way to the stuff underneath and mangle it. It would require a good technician.

 

The two hook type is the wrong puller to use. You need a puller that has two long slots on each side of the centre bolt, to insert two long bolts that screw into the steering wheel hub and then you screw down the centre bolt and the wheel comes off. Try that...

 

If you have access to a air chisel, back the nut off until flush with the top of the shaft (this will protect the threads) There is usually a machining hole in the center of the shaft. Using a punch type bit for the air chisel put the point of the punch in the machining hole and activate the air chisel while pulling upwards on the steering wheel. They will usually pop right off.

 

An even easier method is to just use the CORRECT steering wheel puller...

 

Thanks everyone for posting, will any wheel puller like that work? Can someone post a link to one that will fit my wheel for sure. Thanks

 

ANY wheel puller like that works. There are a bazillion or so available. They come with a selection of bolts with different threads. Be sure to use the bolts that match the threads in your wheel.

 

"Using a punch type bit for the air chisel put the point of the punch in the machining hole and activate the air chisel while pulling upwards on the steering wheel."
====================
Exactly what my suggested method does, except with my method the force is larger and constant, with the impact helping.


Yes, but, to repeat, because it does not seem to be getting thru:
with the above pictured method I have often had the bolts bend and the puller tip over and then the process fails.

Since I fabricated SPACER TUBES that go over the attaching bolts and SECURE the puller body to the steering wheel... not one such failure. With even a SLIGHTLY larger OD for the bolts to secure to the wheel, the strength to resist bending the screws and tipping the puller is vastly increased. Granted, my puller body is a custom fabricated dedicated to this purpose part that does not have a huge round gap to encounter at the block as we see in the photo. But, with some sturdy washers at the puller body, even the above shown tool could be made proper.

Also, do not skimp and use Grade 5 attaching hardware. Grade 8, or better yet, black oxide socket head cap screws.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...VendingMachine=

 

Since I'm lazy, I've been using deep sockets between the puller and the bolt heads on mine for decades rather than fabricating anything. This not only prevents the "tip over" problem but since the body of the puller is much closer to the wheel, I don't have to turn the screw very far.

Did I mention that I was lazy...

 

Didn't someone once say "Laziness is the mother of invention.".........or something like that. ..........

 

I've pulled dozens of steering wheels and never had that happen. Most kits come with an assortment of the right bolts for different car brands so not really necessary to go out and buy extra bolts.

Xavier777 - you might want to go down to Autozone and check out their loaner tool program. I expect they have steering wheel pullers out the wazoo. The program is like a 'free rental'. You pay the tool deposit (credit card imprint) when you borrow it, then when you return it they tear up the imprint - hence 'free loaner tool'. Why spend money for a tool you're only going to use once anyway?