It's Alive!
September 28th, 2008, 05:09 PM
#1
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
It's Alive!
Yesterday I finished all the engine wiring required to start it. Alternator, fuse block, voltage regulator, ignition switch, starting switch (on the floor to activate the starter motor), and of course the battery. At about 6 PM my buddy came over to help me out and we discovered the starter motor would not engage. After about thirty minutes of adjusting with spacers, and trying just about everything to get it to engage we decided the pinion gear (is that what it is called?) on the starter shaft was not extending far enough out. I found my receipt from O'Reilly Auto from when I purchased the starter last August and we returned it. Fortunately one of my buddies ex-students (graduated three years ago) was working and he checked it and verified it was toast and exchanged it for me without any trouble. The thing had set on the engine for a whole year, mostly inside but it had surface rust on the bolts and part of the case so it showed it's age. Anyway, got the starter in and the engine wouldn't fire up. We had to use a turkey baster to squirt gasoline into the fuel line at the fuel pump inlet to give the pump something to pump besides air. After that, if fired right up! It was really loud as I have manifolds with about 18" of 2.5 inch pipe aiming straight down so we didn't let it run very long. Time for some Beer! We cleaned up and while drinking some brew and talking we commented on the gasoline smell. Knowing we had a few pints in a coffee can I just put that outside and forgot about it.
This morning before I headed to the hospital to visit my wife I noticed the fuel smell was still strong. I walked around to see two big fuel spots on the driveway and fuel dripping from the joints where the three stainless lines joined. To make it easier to bend the stainless to fit along the frame rails I had used three sections. Anyway, after tightening up all the joints, and where the line goes into the fuel pump, from the pump to the carburetor I felt better about that. I double checked a lot of bolts. Exhaust manifold bolts, intake manifold bolts, carb to manifold bolts, everything. I had put those things on a list to double check but somewhere in our excitement last night I forgot to refer to it. The engine starts right up and runs great.
Next item is a shifter. I plan to get one that bolts directly onto the transmission tail shaft. I have seen a couple in the speed magazines. I'll be driving this car within the month.
This morning before I headed to the hospital to visit my wife I noticed the fuel smell was still strong. I walked around to see two big fuel spots on the driveway and fuel dripping from the joints where the three stainless lines joined. To make it easier to bend the stainless to fit along the frame rails I had used three sections. Anyway, after tightening up all the joints, and where the line goes into the fuel pump, from the pump to the carburetor I felt better about that. I double checked a lot of bolts. Exhaust manifold bolts, intake manifold bolts, carb to manifold bolts, everything. I had put those things on a list to double check but somewhere in our excitement last night I forgot to refer to it. The engine starts right up and runs great.
Next item is a shifter. I plan to get one that bolts directly onto the transmission tail shaft. I have seen a couple in the speed magazines. I'll be driving this car within the month.
September 29th, 2008, 05:30 AM
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southern CA
Posts: 2,212
September 29th, 2008, 05:49 AM
#3
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
Hmmmm, well let's see if I can remember. The yoke was simply too long and it butted up against the non-splined portion of the output shaft as I recall. I think you recommended a solution that I think I did. If this wasn't your solution then correct me. I used a grinder and ground down the non-splined portion of the output shaft to match the inner diameter of the splined portion. That way the yoke was able to penetrate farther into the tail shaft yet still seal around the o-ring on the output shaft. Total movement of the yoke on the shaft through the full range of motion of the rear axle from fully loaded to fully un-loaded was about 4.5" if I remember.
Thanks for the reference to the Gennie website. I think they are a tad bit more reasonable than some other sources I had earmarked.
Thanks for the reference to the Gennie website. I think they are a tad bit more reasonable than some other sources I had earmarked.
September 29th, 2008, 05:55 AM
#4
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
By the way, kudos to Dan Sarvis (70Wcars) on the carburetor rebuild. I have never had a carburetor that would start up the engine so easily every time. Being able to depend on that made correcting these other problems so much easier, the idle circuit is smooth as glass. Now, once I get it the car rolling we'll see how nicely it runs in part throttle and full throttle!
September 29th, 2008, 07:29 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rathdrum, Idano
Posts: 9,127
Oldsguy,
Congrats on the start up. Hard to explain the feeling when you first start up your conversion. The grin I had on my face when I heard my engine run for the first time stayed for at least a week or longer!
Congrats on the start up. Hard to explain the feeling when you first start up your conversion. The grin I had on my face when I heard my engine run for the first time stayed for at least a week or longer!
September 30th, 2008, 05:22 AM
#12
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
Well, if I had a nice digital camera, maybe for Christmas (hint, hint) I could take some pictures. The only ones I have now are from my buddies camera. He downloads them and I see pictures of MY car on his screensaver that I don't even have! Imagine that! Anyway, I turned the advance back, it was at around 20 degrees advance and that lowered the idle down quite a bit. I am using a Mallory distributor originally intended for use on a 455 on a boat. Why? because it looks cool and looks old school hot rod. I told a guy at work that and he gave me all kinds of heart ache about not using HEI. He just doesn't get it. Anyway, I haven't set the dwell yet and re-set the idle speed so there is still some fine tuning to do. Shopping for a transmission shifter right now, still haven't made up my mind. Gennie stuff looks nice but I like the Lokar one too.
September 30th, 2008, 05:26 AM
#13
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
Also, I think I am going to wait on the wheel well headers for a while so I can drive it this fall. So I think I will turn out the down tubes to just below and aft of the front fenders and run some long side pipes with muffles built into them. I was going to put temporary little glass packs under the car (Cherry Bomb makes some cool little 12 inch jobs) in the normal place with turn downs but the money and time spent on a temporary set up would kind of a waste so I think I just try the other method which is what I want anyway even with the headers.
October 2nd, 2008, 05:09 AM
#14
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
Well, I ended up ordering a Lokar Ultra 16 shifter. I hope it arrives for the weekend so I can put it in. Then maybe I can drive this thing. I still need to find and install a transmission kickdown switch for the TH400 too but that won't prevent me from driving it.
October 2nd, 2008, 07:26 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rathdrum, Idano
Posts: 9,127
Dan,
I used the B&M kickdown kit on my installation, works great. Here are a couple of pictures. Its easy to make a bracket for and easy to install. The lokar unit cost a lot more and mounts on the trans. With your electronic background you could most likey make the switch yourself.
PS borrow the camera and post pictures you are driving us nuts with your mystery machine
I used the B&M kickdown kit on my installation, works great. Here are a couple of pictures. Its easy to make a bracket for and easy to install. The lokar unit cost a lot more and mounts on the trans. With your electronic background you could most likey make the switch yourself.
PS borrow the camera and post pictures you are driving us nuts with your mystery machine
October 2nd, 2008, 09:33 AM
#16
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
I have thought about that, by the way thanks for the image. I suppose it wouldn't be too difficult to do. Would the switch be Momentary closed or open, or permanent closed or open? Four choices there, I would guess a permanent or momentary closed since it activates a solenoid. Any ideas anyone?
October 2nd, 2008, 10:40 AM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rathdrum, Idano
Posts: 9,127
I have thought about that, by the way thanks for the image. I suppose it wouldn't be too difficult to do. Would the switch be Momentary closed or open, or permanent closed or open? Four choices there, I would guess a permanent or momentary closed since it activates a solenoid. Any ideas anyone?
October 2nd, 2008, 10:48 AM
#18
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
So from your description that would be momentary closed, if it opens when you ease off the throttle. If it is wired 12 volts on the supply side and the other goes to the transmission then that would make sense. I think I could do that. Thanks.
October 2nd, 2008, 11:01 AM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rathdrum, Idano
Posts: 9,127
October 2nd, 2008, 02:16 PM
#21
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southern CA
Posts: 2,212
Did the same to my Red Coupe, when I deep sixed its "full manual" valve body.
Norm
October 3rd, 2008, 04:49 AM
#22
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
Thanks for the info Norm. Last night the shifter arrived from Speedway (one day delivery!) but they are just north of me up in Nebraska so not surprising I guess. I spent the evening installing it and left the wiring for the neutral safety switch and the kickdown for today. I acquired a momentary push button switch that is normally open and momentary closed. I fabricated a small bracket out of some stainless I had lying around and positioned it on the driver's side rear of the carburetor base plate held down by the same bolt that holds the throttle cable. As the linkage rotates down and back to full open the tang depresses the push button. I think it will work fine, will just take some fine tuning to make sure it engages at the correct time.
So anyway, today I hope to wire it and the neutral safety switch. Have ordered some tubing to start routing the exhaust pipes and have ordered some 35" Thrush glass packs which will come in next week early. This project is coming along well now and I am really happy about it. Again, sorry for no pictures. I have to find a camera someplace.
So anyway, today I hope to wire it and the neutral safety switch. Have ordered some tubing to start routing the exhaust pipes and have ordered some 35" Thrush glass packs which will come in next week early. This project is coming along well now and I am really happy about it. Again, sorry for no pictures. I have to find a camera someplace.
October 3rd, 2008, 04:59 AM
#23
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
Thanks for the info Norm. Last night the shifter arrived from Speedway (one day delivery!) but they are just north of me up in Nebraska so not surprising I guess. I spent the evening installing it and left the wiring for the neutral safety switch and the kickdown for today. I acquired a momentary push button switch that is normally open and momentary closed. I fabricated a small bracket out of some stainless I had lying around and positioned it on the driver's side rear of the carburetor base plate held down by the same bolt that holds the throttle cable. As the linkage rotates down and back to full open the tang depresses the push button. I think it will work fine, will just take some fine tuning to make sure it engages at the correct time.
So anyway, today I hope to wire it and the neutral safety switch. Have ordered some tubing to start routing the exhaust pipes and have ordered some 35" Thrush glass packs which will come in next week early. This project is coming along well now and I am really happy about it. Again, sorry for no pictures. I have to find a camera someplace.
About the shifter. I is great! I only had to make to slight modifications to the back bracket to clear a few bosses on the tail shaft that may not be present on all TH400s since there are different tail shafts used. The design is great and straightforward. They use the same tool size throughout so you don't have to be switching around all the time. The brackets are solid and the shifter feel is really good. I would recommend a Lokar product to someone any time.
So anyway, today I hope to wire it and the neutral safety switch. Have ordered some tubing to start routing the exhaust pipes and have ordered some 35" Thrush glass packs which will come in next week early. This project is coming along well now and I am really happy about it. Again, sorry for no pictures. I have to find a camera someplace.
About the shifter. I is great! I only had to make to slight modifications to the back bracket to clear a few bosses on the tail shaft that may not be present on all TH400s since there are different tail shafts used. The design is great and straightforward. They use the same tool size throughout so you don't have to be switching around all the time. The brackets are solid and the shifter feel is really good. I would recommend a Lokar product to someone any time.
October 3rd, 2008, 05:14 AM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rathdrum, Idano
Posts: 9,127
Good work on the kick down switch. I am sure that your discription will solve the same problems for others in the same situation. Not counting the money saved doing it yourself. If you don't get pictures soon I am going to mail you my camera to get them
If you don't get pictures soon I am going to mail you my camera to get them
October 3rd, 2008, 07:18 AM
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southern CA
Posts: 2,212
October 3rd, 2008, 07:53 AM
#26
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
Well, thanks for that compliment. But it is simply more fun to do it. The finished product may at times look a little primitive but it will do the job. On the other hand, I would have had a very difficult time "fabricating" myself a shifter, that Lokar item is really, really cool.
October 3rd, 2008, 08:43 AM
#27
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southern CA
Posts: 2,212
Wouldn't car shows/cruise ins be boring, if everyone had the same preferences?
Norm
October 4th, 2008, 06:43 PM
#28
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
Finally!
OK gang, here are a few picturs finally. Taken with my cell phone camera so sorry ahead of time for the quality. I think three are of the shifter I put in today and one is of the kickdown switch I installed, it is the thing with the red button. I spent all day working on the car. Got the shifter installed and the boot on, got the exhaust pipes routed (sorry no pictures), and wired the neutral safety switch and the kickdown switch. Well, here you go....
October 4th, 2008, 07:29 PM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rathdrum, Idano
Posts: 9,127
Thats a great looking floor shift. Looks like high quality too. Fits the year and style of the original stick I'm thinking. The kickdown looks like its going to work great as well. The camera pictures are not that bad, at least we can view your work in progress. I expect to see pictures of under your hood and the exhaust system in progress and when it is done as well. Keep up the good work
October 5th, 2008, 07:10 AM
#32
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
I am not going to try to take any more pictures with the stupid cell phone. It isn't too hard to take the pictures but it is extremely painful uploading them to a bluetooth picturekiosk. I can't mark all the photos and load them at once even though the phone menu shows it. So I end up viewing, marking, and loading each picture individualy. When I have more than a dozen, it takes like, twenty minutes to do it. What a pain!
October 5th, 2008, 02:33 PM
#33
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southern CA
Posts: 2,212
October 15th, 2008, 05:57 AM
#36
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
Six quarts of transmission fluid later, the transmission engages easily when shifted. I should not have been surprised since I had the whole transmission on the garage floor with the torque converter out for over three years. Corrected a poor wiring crimp I had made when inserting the neutral safety switch between the start button and the starter. I had originally started with solder joints on all the lights/lamps/horns/ etc when I started last year but switched to crimps this year when I finished up the engine wiring. Easier in most cases and definitely faster. Judicious use of 3M electrician's tape works well in either case to seal things up from the elements.
The final hurdle to overcome now is the brake system. Last year when my buddy and I built the engine mounts I had to replace a brake line from the junction block to the right front wheel. Replacing the whole brake system was the first thing I did to the car so replacing that line released all the fluid from the system. Over the last year I had forgotten about that and consequently haven't been able to actually move the car yet. We plan to correct that this week or weekend, hopefully.
Anyhow, a nice benefactor has sent me a camera and when it arrives I will take some pictures and post them.......promise, cross my heart, hope to die.
The final hurdle to overcome now is the brake system. Last year when my buddy and I built the engine mounts I had to replace a brake line from the junction block to the right front wheel. Replacing the whole brake system was the first thing I did to the car so replacing that line released all the fluid from the system. Over the last year I had forgotten about that and consequently haven't been able to actually move the car yet. We plan to correct that this week or weekend, hopefully.
Anyhow, a nice benefactor has sent me a camera and when it arrives I will take some pictures and post them.......promise, cross my heart, hope to die.
October 16th, 2008, 10:33 AM
#38
Past Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
Ok guys, thanks to Citcapp I have a camera and tood some pictures but they are too big! As you guys know 97k is the limit and these are 900k. Which program can I use to make them smaller? I have regular windows programs like picture viewer. The camera came with Quicktime but I think that is a video processor. I am just too doofus for this stuff, that's why Omicron is around to help out. As soon as I figure this out I will download the pictures.
