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Installing Cowl Tag Rivets

Old Aug 1, 2011 | 07:30 AM
  #1  
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Installing Cowl Tag Rivets

When I bought my car the cowl tag was dented pretty badly & was only attached by one rivet. I removed it, straightened it out, & would like to reinstall it. I know I could poke a hole in the center of the rivet to get it to compress but that's obviously not the way they were installed originally. The hood is on the car now which makes access a little difficult. I tried compressing the rivet with a set of long jaw vise grips for welding but it doesn't have enough pressure to compress the rivet.

What have you used to do this?

Last edited by allyolds68; Mar 8, 2022 at 07:23 AM.
Old Aug 1, 2011 | 07:47 AM
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This is how I install the cowl rivets. First,you put a little amount of seam sealer on the backside of the tag to hold it. Then align it over the holes and put the rivets in the holes. Take a sheet metal all (sp) or a sharp pointed tool. You push the tool through the rivet and open the hole up to the full diameter of the inside of the rivet very carefully. Then you take a machine screw the size of the hole and screw a nut up onto the screw. When you get the nut up a ways,put a flat washer on the screw. The you put the screw through the rivet hole and put a flat washer on the bottom/backside side. Then you put a nut on the bottom/backside side and tighten the assembly. It doesn't take a lot of tightening to flare the rivet,it's aluminum. Once the rivets is tight and the assembly is removed,you need to put seam sealer in the rivet hole and smear a little excess over the top,just like the factory did. There you have cowl tag rivet installation 101.
Old Aug 1, 2011 | 07:54 AM
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But there wasn't an open (or filled with seam sealer) hole through the ones from the factory, correct? Weren't the centers still solid metal?

Last edited by allyolds68; Aug 1, 2011 at 07:56 AM.
Old Aug 1, 2011 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by allyolds68
But there wasn't an open (or filled with seam sealer) hole through the ones from the factory, correct? Weren't the centers still solid metal?

I don't think so,that's why they put seam sealer over the holes. If they were solid,why the seam sealer? Either way,you have to install the rivets and that's the best way I know how.
Old Aug 1, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by allyolds68
But there wasn't an open (or filled with seam sealer) hole through the ones from the factory, correct? Weren't the centers still solid metal?
I believe the centers of the rivet were still solid in that the metal in there was never pierced. I suspect there was a tool that locked onto the top of the rivet and would compress the bottom just enough so it flared it out to hold it in place. You can do as was suggested and then fill the center with a little solder and then go over it with a little seam sealer. Or, push a little ribbon caulk down into the center, keeping the caulk just below the top of the rivet and smooth it with lacquer thinner. Once you paint it, you'll never know.

Your other option is to install the rivet using a little bit of epoxy. Put the epoxy around the hole, drop the cowl tag in place and install the rivet. Use tape to hold the rivet in place while the epoxy dries or put something with a little weight on it. Smear a little epoxy on the back side if you want using your finger. When it is dry, use the small piece of ribbon caulk into the top of the rivet etc, as I already mentioned.

Brian
Old Mar 7, 2022 | 10:42 AM
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Where do you get them?

Originally Posted by allyolds68
When I bought my car the cowl tag was dented pretty badly & was only attached by one rivet. I removed it, straightened it out would like to reinstall it. I know I could poke a hole in the center of the rivet to get it to compress but that's obviously not the way they were installed originally. The hood is on the car now which makes access a little difficult. I tried compressing the rivet with a set of long jaw vise grips for welding but it doesn't have enough pressure to compress the rivet.

What have you used to do this?
Where did you get the cowl tag rivets from. I have to replace 2 on my cars. Cowls we’re rusted out.

Ben

Last edited by 70 w-30; Mar 7, 2022 at 04:07 PM. Reason: Found the source of rivets
Old Mar 7, 2022 | 03:03 PM
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Rivets are generally solid and come in a variety of metals. The "rivets" commonly used around the home are "Pop Rivets" which I think is a trademark name. Solid rivets require the use of a rivet gun and "bucking bar" which requires access to both sides.
"Pop Rivets" are suitable for cowl tags.
Amazon Amazon
.
Old Mar 7, 2022 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by OLDSter Ralph
Rivets are generally solid and come in a variety of metals. The "rivets" commonly used around the home are "Pop Rivets" which I think is a trademark name. Solid rivets require the use of a rivet gun and "bucking bar" which requires access to both sides.
"Pop Rivets" are suitable for cowl tags.
https://www.amazon.com/pop-rivet-too...pop+rivet+tool.
Cowl tag rivets are neither solid nor conventional pop rivets. I bought a set that came with an installation tool to properly set them.



Old Mar 7, 2022 | 04:08 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by 70 w-30
Where did you get the cowl tag rivets from. I have to replace 2 on my cars. Cowls we’re rusted out.

Ben
I found the answer on the forum. Thanks!
Old Mar 7, 2022 | 04:10 PM
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Joe,

Do you have link to the source with the installation tool?

Ben
Old Mar 7, 2022 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Cowl tag rivets are neither solid nor conventional pop rivets. I bought a set that came with an installation tool to properly set them.


Thank you Joe P. I knew there was a discussion about those rivets a while back. For your fleet of cars it would be a good investment. I also came across the "other thread" posted today which was asking the same question first. Had I seen the other thread, I would have kept quiet on this one.
P.S. I have real rivet guns and bucking bars from a past occupation.
Old Mar 7, 2022 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 70 w-30
Do you have link to the source with the installation tool?
I think all you need is a punch just small enough to fit inside the opening of the rivet. When you hit the reverse dome, it pushed the edges underneath the cowl out and knocks the dome out. Kind of like those rubber "fidget pop" toys you may have seen if you have any young kids.
Old Mar 7, 2022 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Loaded68W34
I think all you need is a punch just small enough to fit inside the opening of the rivet. When you hit the reverse dome, it pushed the edges underneath the cowl out and knocks the dome out. Kind of like those rubber "fidget pop" toys you may have seen if you have any young kids.
Thanks, that makes sense.
Old Mar 7, 2022 | 11:57 PM
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Assembly line pictures. Video shows installation after 23:00 minute mark
http://www.60impala.com/blog/cowl-tag-reinstalled/



Last edited by shiftbyear; Mar 8, 2022 at 12:04 AM. Reason: add info
Old Mar 8, 2022 | 12:27 AM
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Old Mar 8, 2022 | 07:08 AM
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Great video, saved. Never saw that job before on the line. TU
Old Mar 8, 2022 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by shiftbyear
Assembly line pictures. Video shows installation after 23:00 minute mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACWMbeXd31s
Interesting that they show piercing the rivet. I swear that when I removed my remaining rivet there wasn't a hole in it.
This thread was really brought back from the dead (12 years ago) It was so long ago I barely remember what I did. I'm pretty sure I ended up placing a small hole in the center and compressed it similar to what 66-3X2 442 did. You really can't tell once its installed. FWIW every Lansing 68 I've seen has caulking in the rivet head



Old Mar 8, 2022 | 09:42 AM
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Yeah cool video for sure. How about the guys painting the cars with no masks…….I wonder how long they lasted doing that?
Old Mar 8, 2022 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by scrappie
Yeah cool video for sure. How about the guys painting the cars with no masks…….I wonder how long they lasted doing that?
plus the guy doing the lead !!!
Old Mar 8, 2022 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger
plus the guy doing the lead !!!
I don't know, those old timers were built to last. Look at Gene Winfield. He is 94 and still customizing cars. I'm sure he used a lot of lead and sprayed a lot of paint in the last 70 plus years. And I doubt occupational health and safety was a big concern in the late 40's and 50's in custom car shops.
Old Mar 8, 2022 | 03:50 PM
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Thanks, that was interesting.
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