Installing Cowl Tag Rivets
Installing Cowl Tag Rivets
When I bought my car the cowl tag was dented pretty badly & was only attached by one rivet. I removed it, straightened it out, & would like to reinstall it. I know I could poke a hole in the center of the rivet to get it to compress but that's obviously not the way they were installed originally. The hood is on the car now which makes access a little difficult. I tried compressing the rivet with a set of long jaw vise grips for welding but it doesn't have enough pressure to compress the rivet.
What have you used to do this?
What have you used to do this?
Last edited by allyolds68; Mar 8, 2022 at 07:23 AM.
This is how I install the cowl rivets. First,you put a little amount of seam sealer on the backside of the tag to hold it. Then align it over the holes and put the rivets in the holes. Take a sheet metal all (sp) or a sharp pointed tool. You push the tool through the rivet and open the hole up to the full diameter of the inside of the rivet very carefully. Then you take a machine screw the size of the hole and screw a nut up onto the screw. When you get the nut up a ways,put a flat washer on the screw. The you put the screw through the rivet hole and put a flat washer on the bottom/backside side. Then you put a nut on the bottom/backside side and tighten the assembly. It doesn't take a lot of tightening to flare the rivet,it's aluminum. Once the rivets is tight and the assembly is removed,you need to put seam sealer in the rivet hole and smear a little excess over the top,just like the factory did. There you have cowl tag rivet installation 101.
But there wasn't an open (or filled with seam sealer) hole through the ones from the factory, correct? Weren't the centers still solid metal?
Last edited by allyolds68; Aug 1, 2011 at 07:56 AM.
I don't think so,that's why they put seam sealer over the holes. If they were solid,why the seam sealer? Either way,you have to install the rivets and that's the best way I know how.
Your other option is to install the rivet using a little bit of epoxy. Put the epoxy around the hole, drop the cowl tag in place and install the rivet. Use tape to hold the rivet in place while the epoxy dries or put something with a little weight on it. Smear a little epoxy on the back side if you want using your finger. When it is dry, use the small piece of ribbon caulk into the top of the rivet etc, as I already mentioned.
Brian
Where do you get them?
When I bought my car the cowl tag was dented pretty badly & was only attached by one rivet. I removed it, straightened it out would like to reinstall it. I know I could poke a hole in the center of the rivet to get it to compress but that's obviously not the way they were installed originally. The hood is on the car now which makes access a little difficult. I tried compressing the rivet with a set of long jaw vise grips for welding but it doesn't have enough pressure to compress the rivet.
What have you used to do this?
What have you used to do this?
Ben
Last edited by 70 w-30; Mar 7, 2022 at 04:07 PM. Reason: Found the source of rivets
Rivets are generally solid and come in a variety of metals. The "rivets" commonly used around the home are "Pop Rivets" which I think is a trademark name. Solid rivets require the use of a rivet gun and "bucking bar" which requires access to both sides.
"Pop Rivets" are suitable for cowl tags.
.
"Pop Rivets" are suitable for cowl tags.
.
Rivets are generally solid and come in a variety of metals. The "rivets" commonly used around the home are "Pop Rivets" which I think is a trademark name. Solid rivets require the use of a rivet gun and "bucking bar" which requires access to both sides.
"Pop Rivets" are suitable for cowl tags.
https://www.amazon.com/pop-rivet-too...pop+rivet+tool.
"Pop Rivets" are suitable for cowl tags.
https://www.amazon.com/pop-rivet-too...pop+rivet+tool.
P.S. I have real rivet guns and bucking bars from a past occupation.
I think all you need is a punch just small enough to fit inside the opening of the rivet. When you hit the reverse dome, it pushed the edges underneath the cowl out and knocks the dome out. Kind of like those rubber "fidget pop" toys you may have seen if you have any young kids.
I think all you need is a punch just small enough to fit inside the opening of the rivet. When you hit the reverse dome, it pushed the edges underneath the cowl out and knocks the dome out. Kind of like those rubber "fidget pop" toys you may have seen if you have any young kids.
Assembly line pictures. Video shows installation after 23:00 minute mark
http://www.60impala.com/blog/cowl-tag-reinstalled/
http://www.60impala.com/blog/cowl-tag-reinstalled/
Last edited by shiftbyear; Mar 8, 2022 at 12:04 AM. Reason: add info
Assembly line pictures. Video shows installation after 23:00 minute mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACWMbeXd31s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACWMbeXd31s
This thread was really brought back from the dead (12 years ago) It was so long ago I barely remember what I did. I'm pretty sure I ended up placing a small hole in the center and compressed it similar to what 66-3X2 442 did. You really can't tell once its installed. FWIW every Lansing 68 I've seen has caulking in the rivet head
I don't know, those old timers were built to last. Look at Gene Winfield. He is 94 and still customizing cars. I'm sure he used a lot of lead and sprayed a lot of paint in the last 70 plus years. And I doubt occupational health and safety was a big concern in the late 40's and 50's in custom car shops.
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