so today i finally got a key made for the trunk bc when i bought it the guy had no clue where the key was.........there is a little rust......im not too upset bc i think it could possibly be an easy fix....either i could grind it down to the metal and use some all metal to fix the holes, hopefully when i grind it all the way down it doesnt show that the rust is more than just holes but my other idea is if it is too bad, to just weld another piece of sheet metal in the trunk or somthing i dk any one got any ideas..?

 

Cut out all of the bad metal its a cancer and will spread like one. replace with all new metal pan.

 

You should definitely consider welding in new metal if you have rust through the bottom of your trunk. I am not a bodyman; however, to my understanding before welding in new metal you have to cut the bad spot out at least an inch or two away from the rust spot. Then make sure you coat it with some good rust resistant paint after you weld in the new piece.

 

as long as you get ALL the rust out you should be OK. If you have holes through the sheet metal, you will want to cut back to solid clean metal. cut a cardboard template and use that for your patch. you want to butt weld or will have future rust issues, as well as unsightly and obvious repairs. That said, once you get good at it you can come over and help me. I used to work in a body shop...as a wrecker operator.

 

yea i also worked in a body shop when i was younger right out of high school, didnt like it so much but kinda wish i had all the tools i needed and i could do it on the side....and right now especially a welder i will start on this soon its not so important to me this moment but it is on my list to do thanks

 

I too have a 72 442 and in process of restoring it. My trunk also was very rusty but not rusted thru. It had pin holes in it. I had thought about trying to repair it but decided to replace it. Not as hard as you might thing and the parts were very inexpensive. I use a mig welder

 

You can also buy a rust converter called POR 15. This stuff paints on ROCK hard, and ELEPHANTIE thick! It is made to paint over rust and stop it in its tracks. I have never used it on a rusty frame or sheet metal; however, I used their engine paint. It is top notch.

 

Just a curious question...when cutting in a new floor pan, what is the best way to do it? Do you lay the pan down over the floor to be repaired, trace the pan and cut half an inch smaller so that the new pan has something to hold it in place? Or do you cut it exact and hold it together with something while you weld it? Maybe a stupid question but I have never done that and just wanted some insight...

 

I cut it exact and butt welded it where it goes towards the back set, but I did have a little metal for it to rest on when I welded it towards the trunk opening

 

i was lookin at some rust converters but i dk ???? should i grind the trunk bottom down, patch the holes with all metal, and then spray the trunk with ROL?

 

Your better off cutting out all of the rusted metal and welding a new pan in place. It will be a better looking fix.

 

thats most likely what im going to do ....

 

Got the tools?... most of the basics anyway. have enough knowledge to do the work?... think so. Got the project...check. Enough ***** to get off my dead *** and start cutting... uhh?.

 

haha, one day huh, right now want a temp fix til i decide to start cutting..

 

I'm actually starting to grind out all the rust in the floor pans on mine. I have so much to deal with that I'd probably be better off replacing the whole shell. At that point I think I might look for a 70. as far as 60's era muscle cars go the 68 cutty is about as ugly as it gets. HEE HEE. Well it's good practice anyway.

 

If you are looking for a quickie temp fix...I used to own a 65 chuvvle that some one covered the entire floor with fiberglass. I didn't own the car long, but it seemed to work... a little cheesey, but hey. At least I can say I owned one. As a temp fix it might suit your needs. I'm starting to considder it for mine, at least until I can find a better shell.

 

i found a whole brand new trunk bottom for 119 so thats what imma do

 

For anyone that wants to use por-15, I found a cheaper alternative. It is pretty much the same exact stuff but, much cheaper. I used it on the front frame of my Cutlass and it turned out great. It uses all of the same components as Por-15. Here is a link,http://www.kbs-coatings.com/index.html

 

Dude! aint herd that one in a while have you? Where?!?

 

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...ain2.asp?cat=3

 

goto body section and then 1 piece trunk floors