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How to install evap line front to back - '70 Cutlass
I think I'm realizing the answer to this question... I am reinstalling the evap system in my Cutlass and the hard line that runs front to back (canister to tank) is a solid piece. I don't think there is any way on earth to get this piping up and over the rear support beam unless this car is up on a full lift - and even then I may doubt it. Has anyone ever replaced this line, and if you cut it, where was the best location? I would be OK with a snip along the line somewhere....but if there was a trick to the installation, I'm all ears. Thanks!
Well, after many attempts to figure this out, I made a mock up of the difficult end section and did my best to fit it up and over the rear spring support area. There is no way on God's green earth that this piece was meant to go on anything but a bare frame. I'll figure out what section to cut out and run gas line in it's place. The rest of the tube will be fine running down the frame rail to the engine compartment.
Here’s the whole section Here’s the piece I made to try and finagle up and over the spring mounting area, thinking I would cut the long piece somewhere - it didn’t work.
Last edited by BSiegPaint; Jan 1, 2019 at 08:20 PM.
For your addition, consider using stainless braided hose to give it protection against road debris.
Braided stainless hose is just rubber hose with a thin wire braid over it. Hard line is MUCH more resistant to damage the way it is. The factory used a "spring" over the outside of the hard line where they felt it might be susceptible to damage from stones. You can buy this "armor" and add it.
There is a short section of the spring wrap you can see in the first picture, but only a small portion in the center. I imagine this is supposed to go at whatever point along the length it isn't protected by the frame, since it slides around. They didn't put much on there...great idea to add more. I think I'll be able to run the length of the car from the canister to the rear spring in one shot, then I'll have to rubber hose it up over the spring mount and then I can use the tubing again to connect to the vapor separator. I think I can minimize the rubber tubing to about 6".
OK - so I had to remove my headers to get enough room up front, but so far I have been able to get the line in with only one cut, way at the back near the last bend up. If you do that, you can start with a long, straight section from the front of the car and thread it over the transmission crossmember all the way to the back. Then with a little finesse, feed the line past the front spring and into position on the front frame. Then, with the tubing cut past where the rear trailing arms mount, you have to slowly shove the line forward again, which will bend it in a big arc. Just be careful so you can bend it back. This will allow you to follow the fuel line behind the trailing arm mounting point and come out behind it, right where I'm likely going to run a rubber hose up and over the rear spring before connecting to the last bit of the original tubing and hooking up the vapor separator. The only other way I suppose you could do this is to remove all the body mount bolts on one side and separate the body from the frame in some manner. This seems to be a viable alternative, if you are crazy like me and want your car as "right" as possible.
Up the front passenger frame, threaded through and bent to fit Down the frame with the fuel line Following the fuel line through this little space - do this after you have the front section threaded through and in place It connects to the canister up front
Last edited by BSiegPaint; Jan 4, 2019 at 09:03 PM.
Here is the final pic as I got the evap lines hooked up to the PCV line at the carb and the air cleaner snorkel. I have a temporary solution for the snorkel connection, but I continue to work with a friend and a 3D printer to remake the piece needed.
