Or access the rear valve cover bolt? I have a 71 cutlass supreme with a non functioning ac and a 455. I can't fit my hand between the AC box and the motor to pull the wire. The heater core leaks so I bypassed it and was thinking about deleting the AC box for accessibility and maintenance until I looked into how much of a project that would be.
So I know you could originally get the cutlass with AC and a 455. Is there some trick to changing the rear plug or removing the passenger side valve cover? Seems a little extreme to have to lift the passenger side of the motor if that would even work.

 

Cold engine, patience, creativity and good dexterity! A selection of primarily 1/4” drive extensions, wobble extensions & universal will help both tasks.

Been a while since I did this but a spark plug socket (preferably mid depth) with external hex and a wrench to break it loose & final tighten. A 12 point offset box wrench might work directly on the plug. In between is mostly with fingers on the socket or bare plug. You can try an old spark plug boot or piece of vac hose to make a flexible extension to turn with fingers. Not easy or pleasant but quite doable.

If not using AC, remove the evap box and put on the aftermarket “ac delete” cover, likely available from some of the bigger Olds vendors or Ground Up (ss396.com)

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I've found there are two ways: (1) Using a real spark plug socket you can fit the socket onto the spark plug then use the proper sized "wrench" (not ratchet) to engage the outside six sides of the spark plug socket (as bccan described); and, (2) use one or two swivel sockets. I've done both. Very tough squeeze but it's doable.

 

Been a long time since I had my 70. with AC. But the one trick I learned about putting the valve cover bolts on, is to put the bolt in the holes that are hard to get to, than put a small O ring on it, and it will hold the bolt in place, than you can use a swivel, and extentions with socket. Before I learned this, I had to have my wife, start the bolt, smaller hands.

 

Most guys with BBO in A bodies use a spark plug socket that has a hex you can put a box wrench on to access that passenger rear plug. If you have that type spark plug socket you can probably get it out. A GearWrench or other ratcheting box end wrench makes that a little easier. Alternately an extension and U-joint. Use a piece of vacuum hose on the new plug to help start it back in the hole.

VC screw? If you don't have them go to Harbor Freight and buy yourself a set of wobble extensions. Once you've used them you'll wonder how you ever did without them. Alternately use a 1/4 drive extension with a U-joint to get back there.

U-joints are a PITA to use unless the socket and U-joint are made together. You end up losing the socket and the screw. And always ends up right dead center under the car and just out of reach.

I had a fight changing passenger side plugs on the 93 F150 last week so Olds/GM ain't the only one to make things difficult. Ford saw fit to run a smog pump tube right in line with the passenger side plugs on truck 5.0 engines. Add in you have to stand on a stool and pretty much stand on your head to get in there and you see why I cursed Ford engineers all the way back to Henry 1. Might also explain why I went 38k miles on those plugs, they're such a pain to change.

 

As far as the plug, can't remember, but can you get to it from the bottom? Also had a BB Vett, with AC, and had to get to the plugs through the inner fenders

 

I dont think anyone mentioned a hex type spark plug socket yet

i use a 45 degree long needle nose pliers to remove the wire.

 

Only three times thus far, including yours four; but, hey who's counting.

 

Exactly why I do not like AC on my cars.

Be thankful you don't own a ford with shock towers.

 

Agree with above. This is what you need.

 

Good call.

 

Excellent suggestions. My intake had some vacuum leaks. One was the elbow fittings for the transmission vacuum line located behind the carb. The driver's side rear plug was fouled the worst. It was white. Others had some degree of dry fouling. The only one it did not inspect or replace was passenger rear. The car now runs exceptionally well. Will a dry fouled plug correct itself after the vacuum leaks are sealed?

 

My Dad's 1970 Buick 350 GS. I would pull the passenger tire off. And go in that way. Not sure if that works with your Olds.

 

Going in through the passenger wheel well can certainly help but isn't really necessary. As mentioned already, get the plug socket and a wrench. The hardest part is blindly fishing the new plug in the hole but once you get it started, life is good.
If you really want to struggle, put a set of headers on it and try to install and torque those rear two bolts on the passenger side.

 

Pretty sure I could see the last hole with passenger tire off. Again it was a Buick.

 

Yup. The mechanic who did the install had a few choice words regarding the headers.

 

IIRC I went pulled the front tire and went in through the wheel well with a socket and wrench