So I’m trying to diagnose issue starting my
baby…. No spark coming from coil. 😞

 

Is there voltage going to it? Voltage at the points?

 

I moved your posts to a new thread. Hopefully you'll get more views this way. Good luck.

 

As fleming442 noted, check for voltage going "into" the IGN coil. You must have voltage going in before you can have voltage coming out. If you have voltage going into the IGN coil check the IGN coil itself.
Measure both the primary winding resistance and the secondary winding resistance of the IGN coil.
Take the several minutes to read this >>> Electrical advice please.

 

It would help if you posted what distributor/ignition type your using?

 

My 63 died one time in traffic. We pushed it to a side street. As I'm standing there scratching my head, this old dude on his porch asked if I had "power to the points". I was (still am) pretty clueless about points, so the old dude walked me through pushing the contact in and checking for arcing across the contacts. The problem was actually that the coil wire had wiggled up out of the cap. Pushed it down, and away we went.

 

How about telling us year, model, engine, and ignition type? Is it stock or modified? The mind reading thing still isn't working.

 

 

I assumed the OP was referring to his 1964 Olds 98 Town Sedan, wrongful on my part to assume...valid point(s) to ask.

 

That information isn't found anywhere in this thread, unfortunately. And of course, there is still the ***-U-ME problem.

 

Yes, it was the OP's 64 98. Sorry I didn't put an explanation when I moved the first 2 posts. You can blame Oldsguy. He's visiting and was bothering me this morning when I should have been doing more important things.

 

Uh huh...passing the buck. You blame Oldsguy & we'll blame Olds64.

 

OK, thanks. So stock points and igntion coil? There's a sticky.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...gnition-76706/

 

But first off thank you this made my weekend
whew . Still no luck with spark , but man thank God for this forum. I’ll have to reread some of electrical advice thread . In order to check coil ( its new ) I was looking at old coil there’s a terminal still attached, looks like I pulled wire from idk 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

It’s wired per diagram , curious if it not grounded at distributor…

 

 

.....curious if a fuse blew. Got J.U. Ice?

 

Do you have a test meter (Digital Multimeter) to measure voltage & resistance (Ohms)? Your first order of business is to measure the voltage at the positive (+) terminal of the ignition coil. Do you have ~12V at that terminal? You must have an input voltage at the positive (+) terminal of the ignition coil. Whether your coil is new or old, you're DOA if you can't provide an input voltage at the (+) terminal.

 

The key needs to be in the switched ON position to read ~12V at the positive (+) terminal of the ignition coil. I didn't mention this...look at the image you posted above (Post #15) ...ignition switch to coil wire. Measure that voltage at the ignition coil.

 

Are you running points or an electronic module? If it's a module, it needs power.

 

That was my fault...I thought the OP had said it was points but I re-read and the question hasn't been answered.

You need to state whether you have points or electronic ignition.

 

Start with the most likely failures, not the low-probability ones. Also, once again, please answer the question: do you have points or an electronic conversion, and if the latter, which one?
Is there power at the + terminal of the coil with the key in RUN and START positions? Does the - terminal of the coil alternate between closed and open to ground with the engine cranking?

 

Yeah she is stock …..points at distributor

 

Disconnect the wire at the "-" terminal on the coil. Check continuity from that wire to ground as the engine turns over. You should see open circuit when the point are on the high part of the distributor cam and continuity when the points are closed. If not, figure out why.

 

That is not how it's wired if it is stock. Instead of measuring continuity, pull the high voltage lead off the top of the coil to prevent starting, hook a test light to the coil negative terminal. Crank the engine with the key and see if the test light blinks on and off.

 

That is exactly how it is wired. The points are simply a switch to ground.

 

I understand how points work, show me where the fuse is for the igniton. In simplest terms yes that is a typical ignition system without those pesky items like the resistance wire and the bypass wire.

 

I'm not talking about the power side of the circuit. I'm a big fan of testing at the lowest level possible. The method I suggested only tests the points and the wire to the coil, period. Bad or improperly adjusted points are a high probability cause of ignition problems.

 

Maybe not the highest probability but if you ain't gots no juice going in you ain't gonna have no juice coming out....period.

 

The method I suggested after you, tests for both power and to see if the points are opening and closing.

 

It flashes when turning over 👍🏼

 

12v at positive terminal w/ ignition on

 

So I am trying to test continuity by removing neg wire . Points look closed .

 

Test coil:
(1) Remove all wires from coil
(2) Measure resistance (Ohms) of primary winding in coil. Attach one DMM probe to (-) terminal on coil attach other probe to (+) coil terminal. Reading must fall below 2.0 Ohms.
(3) Measure resistance of secondary winding. All wires disconnect from coil. Place one DMM probe on coil (+) terminal and other probe inside the top (center) tower where the coil wire would be attached. Set Ohm scale to 20K. Resistance must be greater then 6K, optimally greater than 13K+ Ohms.

 

If the primary winding is <2.0 Ohms and the secondary winding is >10K+ Ohms the coil is OK. That will tell you the coil can produce the required voltage for spark to start the engine.

 

You indicated the test light flashes therefore points are opening and closing. Testing coil primary & secondary winding demonstrates if enough voltage can be delivered. This is not to say the points are not adjusted correctly or there is a different issue.

 

If it's flashing when turning over then you have power to the coil and the points are opening and closing. If at this point you have no spark chances are good that your coil is not working. One more test, connect the high voltage wire back up and attach a timing light to that wire and see if it flashes. If it does, then either your timing is off or your not getting fuel.

 

Thank you for you guy’s response. 👍🏼

 

No light when turning over 🤦🏻‍♂️

 

With ohm meter at 2k - to+ 12.87
+ to lead runnig to distributor 19.5