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Just put the new engine but no start.
fuel is getting to the carb engine is turning over but not starting and the following is hooked up as per old engine as I took many photos.
Generator
Starter motor/ solenoid
Ballast resistor to ignition coil and condenser
and lead from ignition coil to distributor which I had to take from old distributor. Condenser when tested on multimetre shows high numbers but only for a split second.
Engine turns over but will not run.
what else can I do?
thank you.
Last edited by 5998DownUnder; April 9th, 2023 at 04:56 PM.
Have you adjusted the points yet? From what I remember they should be open 0.019” with the rubbing block sitting on the high spot of the distributor (can’t remember the name of the part the rubbing block contacts).
Have you adjusted the points yet? From what I remember they should be open 0.019” with the rubbing block sitting on the high spot of the distributor (can’t remember the name of the part the rubbing block contacts).
No I have not did not think I had to since the engine was run in before I got it (was a few years ago though).
Thanks I will check this anyway.
No I have not did not think I had to since the engine was run in before I got it (was a few years ago though).
Thanks I will check this anyway.
A "few years" and an ocean trip halfway around the world could easily have corroded the points.
To check them, rotate the engine until they are closed.
Disconnect the distributor to coil wire.
Using a volt / ohm meter check for resistance from the end of the wire to the distributor housing.
You should have less than 1 ohm resistance.
If more the points should be replaced.
Do you have a dwell meter?
If so, the proper way to adjust points is to set them to 30 degrees dwell.
Usually, new points are adjusted from the factory close enough to allow the car to start and run.
The points can be adjusted with the engine running ( or even cranking) to 30 degrees.
Use a 1/8 in Allen wrench through the small window on the cap.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; April 9th, 2023 at 06:51 PM.
The easiest way to see if you have a spark is to use an inductive timing light clamped around one of the wires. Point the timing light at the bottom of the hood (so you can easily see the flashes) and have someone crank the engine. It should flash consistently if you have good spark. The other way is to pull the center wire and place it near some metal and watch for a spark. I find that way is riskier and needs careful setup, but you don't need any tools besides perhaps a screwdriver.
My preference is to check for spark at a plug to know that not only is the spark going into the distributor but it also confirms it's also outbound eliminating things like a problem with the cap and/or rotor.
Have you adjusted the points yet? From what I remember they should be open 0.019” with the rubbing block sitting on the high spot of the distributor (can’t remember the name of the part the rubbing block contacts).
You were right in checking them they were closed and have set them.
Thanks.
The easiest way to see if you have a spark is to use an inductive timing light clamped around one of the wires. Point the timing light at the bottom of the hood (so you can easily see the flashes) and have someone crank the engine. It should flash consistently if you have good spark. The other way is to pull the center wire and place it near some metal and watch for a spark. I find that way is riskier and needs careful setup, but you don't need any tools besides perhaps a screwdriver.
A "few years" and an ocean trip halfway around the world could easily have corroded the points.
To check them, rotate the engine until they are closed.
Disconnect the distributor to coil wire.
Using a volt / ohm meter check for resistance from the end of the wire to the distributor housing.
You should have less than 1 ohm resistance.
If more the points should be replaced.
Do you have a dwell meter?
If so, the proper way to adjust points is to set them to 30 degrees dwell.
Usually, new points are adjusted from the factory close enough to allow the car to start and run.
The points can be adjusted with the engine running ( or even cranking) to 30 degrees.
Use a 1/8 in Allen wrench through the small window on the cap.
Looks like all power is good to the coil seems an issue at the distributor so I adjusted the points and still no spark at the plugs.
I was thinking of adjusting the distributor in the block by hand but the engine was going prior to leaving the shop.
iI have tried a few different leads from the coil to the distributor thinking there was an issue there but replacing it made no difference.
If the timing light is not flashing then the points are not opening or closing. Make sure the wire from the coil negative to the points ohms out. Make sure the advance plate that the points attach to is grounded. You can test the coil by hooking the timing light to the center wire to the cap and momentarily ground the negative side of the coil with the key on.
If the timing light is not flashing then the points are not opening or closing. Make sure the wire from the coil negative to the points ohms out. Make sure the advance plate that the points attach to is grounded. You can test the coil by hooking the timing light to the center wire to the cap and momentarily ground the negative side of the coil with the key on.
Yes it Ohms out.
I used a test light on the points and that lit up.
Thanks.
Was the engine/car ever left with the key on after it ran well previously? If so the coil may have been damaged, I didn't see where anyone mentioned how to check this, with power off (to ensure safety) or with the coil disconnected, measure between the positive terminal and the negative teminal (two small ones, not the one to the distributor). If you have just a few ohms the coil is probably good perhaps not the original inductance value but it should read close to zero ohms.
Was the engine/car ever left with the key on after it ran well previously? If so the coil may have been damaged, I didn't see where anyone mentioned how to check this, with power off (to ensure safety) or with the coil disconnected, measure between the positive terminal and the negative teminal (two small ones, not the one to the distributor). If you have just a few ohms the coil is probably good perhaps not the original inductance value but it should read close to zero ohms.
01.9 is shown on this setting (200) all other Ohm settings show zero or just a 0.01.
Is this a bad coil?
thanks.
01.9 is shown on this setting (200) all other Ohm settings show zero or just a 0.01.
Is this a bad coil?
thanks.
You measured the primary windings of the IGN coil. The result should fall between ~0.3 Ohms - 2.0 Ohms (you're good at 1.9 Ohms). Next, measure the secondary windings of the coil. The primary winding draws power from the source. The secondary winding delivers power produced by the coil. The secondary windings should yield a resistance of generally >10k Ohms (optimally ~13k+ Ohms).
You measured the primary windings of the IGN coil. The result should fall between ~0.3 Ohms - 2.0 Ohms (you're good at 1.9 Ohms). Next, measure the secondary windings of the coil. The primary winding draws power from the source. The secondary winding delivers power produced by the coil. The secondary windings should yield a resistance of generally >10k Ohms (optimally ~13k+ Ohms).
this is the least from the coil. I had to add the connection to the end.
was not sure which Ohm setting to use so I did them all.
thanks.
Not 100% what I'm viewing. I remove all external wires attaching to the IGN coil then attach one DIMM probe to the + Batt position on the IGN coil then probe the IGN coil tower (center IGN coil to the distributor) with the other DMM probe. Set DMM to 20k Ohms.
So we're on same page. Inside the IGN coil are two windings - primary winding and secondary winding. Winding(s) is general term for the field windings made of copper. Primary winding receives power (say 30 copper windings) - that's what you already measured at 1.9 Ohms. Secondary winding is the output or power which is then delivered to the coil wire to the top of the distributor. In general, it's a 1:100 ratio. If you have 30 primary windings you'll have (1:100) 3,000 secondary windings which steps up the power output to the distributor which then distributes this power to the cylinders as the contact point(s) field collapses (points open & close). Measuring the secondary windings resistance will demonstrate if you have the ability to provide the required output of the IGN coil. Again, generally 10k Ohm, optimally 13k+ Ohms. If the secondary winding is leaking, faulty, etc. and demonstrates very limited resistance (say ~6k Ohms) the IGN coil should be replaced as it won't be able to provide the required output. If it's way over say 15k Ohms - the IGN coil is DOA.
Not 100% what I'm viewing. I remove all external wires attaching to the IGN coil then attach one DIMM probe to the + Batt position on the IGN coil then probe the IGN coil tower (center IGN coil to the distributor) with the other DMM probe. Set DMM to 20k Ohms.
So we're on same page. Inside the IGN coil are two windings - primary winding and secondary winding. Winding(s) is general term for the field windings made of copper. Primary winding receives power (say 30 copper windings) - that's what you already measured at 1.9 Ohms. Secondary winding is the output or power which is then delivered to the coil wire to the top of the distributor. In general, it's a 1:100 ratio. If you have 30 primary windings you'll have (1:100) 3,000 secondary windings which steps up the power output to the distributor which then distributes this power to the cylinders as the contact point(s) field collapses (points open & close). Measuring the secondary windings resistance will demonstrate if you have the ability to provide the required output of the IGN coil. Again, generally 10k Ohm, optimally 13k+ Ohms. If the secondary winding is leaking, faulty, etc. and demonstrates very limited resistance (say ~6k Ohms) the IGN coil should be replaced as it won't be able to provide the required output. If it's way over say 15k Ohms - the IGN coil is DOA.
Thank you for explaining I can understand how the works now.
Sorry, it could be me, but I'm not following. You're measuring the resistance of the ignition coil itself - not the ignition coil wire. The ignition coil wire is not part of what we are measuring at this point. I may not be understanding - sometimes I'm deft. But, you are only measuring the resistance of the ignition coil itself. + Batt post and top (tower) post of the ignition coil itself. All wires disconnected from the ignition coil except the DMM probes.
This video is decent enough since he does a pretty good job of explaining how to measure the two. His accent is a little hard to follow and he speaks fast, but the process is correct. Note he provides what I think is a very nice clever way to use a circuit tester (light probe). Anyways, note the secondary winding resistance measurement in the video: all wires disconnected, then DIMM probe to ignition coil + BATT and top (tower) of ignition coil. Good Luck!
Sorry, it could be me, but I'm not following. You're measuring the resistance of the ignition coil itself - not the ignition coil wire. The ignition coil wire is not part of what we are measuring at this point. I may not be understanding - sometimes I'm deft. But, you are only measuring the resistance of the ignition coil itself. + Batt post and top (tower) post of the ignition coil itself. All wires disconnected from the ignition coil except the DMM probes.
No not you I didn’t explain myself properly, sorry.
I just did the test by removing all wires from the coil and putting the probe on the + and other probe in the tower of the coil and it shows 8.14Ohms while set at 20K Ohms.
No not you I didn’t explain myself properly, sorry.
I just did the test by removing all wires from the coil and putting the probe on the + and other probe in the tower of the coil and it shows 8.14Ohms while set at 20K Ohms.
If that is the case, your ignition coil is incapable of providing enough power & needs to be replaced. You want at the very, very minimum 6k Ohms - generally 10k Ohms is OK, 13k+ is optimal for these waste contact point systems.
Have you adjusted the points yet? From what I remember they should be open 0.019” with the rubbing block sitting on the high spot of the distributor (can’t remember the name of the part the rubbing block contacts).
Followed your instructions re gapping points. Worked a treat.
thank you.
If that is the case, your ignition coil is incapable of providing enough power & needs to be replaced. You want at the very, very minimum 6k Ohms - generally 10k Ohms is OK, 13k+ is optimal for these waste contact point systems.
Norm,
dragged out a completely different coil, worked a treat.
Thanks.
Was the engine/car ever left with the key on after it ran well previously? If so the coil may have been damaged, I didn't see where anyone mentioned how to check this, with power off (to ensure safety) or with the coil disconnected, measure between the positive terminal and the negative teminal (two small ones, not the one to the distributor). If you have just a few ohms the coil is probably good perhaps not the original inductance value but it should read close to zero ohms.
Followed your instructions got me on track.
thanks.
If the timing light is not flashing then the points are not opening or closing. Make sure the wire from the coil negative to the points ohms out. Make sure the advance plate that the points attach to is grounded. You can test the coil by hooking the timing light to the center wire to the cap and momentarily ground the negative side of the coil with the key on.
Great way to test, I did this so thank you for the help.
A "few years" and an ocean trip halfway around the world could easily have corroded the points.
To check them, rotate the engine until they are closed.
Disconnect the distributor to coil wire.
Using a volt / ohm meter check for resistance from the end of the wire to the distributor housing.
You should have less than 1 ohm resistance.
If more the points should be replaced.
Do you have a dwell meter?
If so, the proper way to adjust points is to set them to 30 degrees dwell.
Usually, new points are adjusted from the factory close enough to allow the car to start and run.
The points can be adjusted with the engine running ( or even cranking) to 30 degrees.
Use a 1/8 in Allen wrench through the small window on the cap.
Your suggestion of adjusting points through that window certainly helped get her going.
Thanks.
My advice, get a dwell meter.
They are easy to find on E-Bay, and cheap. dwell meter for sale | eBay
They usually include a tachometer, which is used to set idle speed. Glad to see you got it running.
What is the primary winding resistance & secondary winding resistance of the IGN coil you installed?
With my new found knowledge on the subject there I did test these. Primary was the same and secondary was almost double of the old coil if my recollections are correct. I will confirm later by testing again though. Old coil was leaking oil.
April 9th, 2023, 04:46 PM
