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Heater Core Replacement AC vs. Non-AC

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Old Dec 14, 2018 | 08:24 AM
  #1  
Texas442's Avatar
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1971 442 conv
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 853
From: Austin, Texas
Heater Core Replacement AC vs. Non-AC

I've replaced a heater core on a 71 Cutlass with AC before and it was a lot of work including removing the inner fender, and AC box from the firewall. Then crawling under the dash.
My question today is specific to Non-AC 70-72 Cutlass. Is the process pretty much the same? If not, any tips? Thank you in advance.
Old Dec 14, 2018 | 09:25 AM
  #2  
joe_padavano's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,539
From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by Texas442
My question today is specific to Non-AC 70-72 Cutlass. Is the process pretty much the same?
Unfortunately, yes. The only difference is that the heater-only box doesn't have the ducting to the dash vents that has to be removed when you pull out the under dash unit. There are still fasteners between the inner and outer boxes that require you to pull the fender or at least the inner fender to access before you can remove the under dash box to get to the heater core. Personally, any time I have to do this, I install a new blower motor as well just as a preventative measure.
Old Dec 14, 2018 | 11:23 AM
  #3  
Eddie Hansen's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,515
From: South River, New Jersey
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Personally, any time I have to do this, I install a new blower motor as well just as a preventative measure.
Joe, is there a brand motor that you could recommend? I tested my motor and cleaned it up, it works, but I might as well be safe. I bought a brand new heater core to be safe as well even though there were no issues. I'd rather be safe than sorry
Old Dec 14, 2018 | 05:56 PM
  #4  
matt69olds's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,061
From: central Indiana
There is a way to cheat the hidden bolt in the fender area. You can center punch the head of lower stud (the one hidden behind the fender) and then drill it. If you drill it straigh and dead center the stud and bolt will fall into the wheelhouse area. All the other bolts and nuts are accessible from under the hood. This is kinda a hack way of doing it, but it will work. There are still plenty of studs to hold it in place.

It’s a tough decision, chances are all the bolts that hold the inner wheel house to the fender won’t come loose due to “environmental loctite” or removing the fender rims the risk of paint damage.
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