I recently removed the heater core in my 69 cutlass convertible 350 no ac. I made a rookie mistake when I changed my hoses and broke the fitting trying to pull it off. I consulted the manual and it said to get to the last nut it was necessary to remove the fastener at the bottom of the fender and block the fender away from the body. I also read several threads that said it was necessary to do this or drill out the last bolt from the inside. I discovered I could touch the bolt by reaching in,without removing the bottom of the fender or inner fender. It was a tight spot for sure. I sprayed it with wd40 and reached in with a racheted box end wrench. Using my fingers to feel it I slipped the wrench over it. Ratcheting was with very short strokes but after it loosened up I could reach in and get it with my fingers. I got it off in about 5 minutes this way. I'm going to replace this with a rounded Allen head bolt . while I hold the nut someone can screw it on from the other side. Just saying maybe this can help someone else.

 

I always just leave that one off, mine is a stud attached to the box. I can always get the nut off but can never get it back on.

 

I pull the fender if the paints not a huge concern. If it is I pull the wheel well. Makes changing that and the blower motor a breeze. Another trick is to pull the passenger seat if its a bucket. Your neck will thank you.

 

I looked up a new core on the web. Looks like they run about $30. They all look aluminum and made in China. I decided to take my old one down to the local shop and have it repaired. It was only a small hole at the weld by the tube fitting. They said it would cost about $100 to fix it right. What a shame. I can't really justify paying that much more.

 

This is one of those times where if your going to purchase a new one, do it local. Match it up with the old one at the store before you buy it and make sure the tubes and the core have the same basic dimensions.

 

You must have pulled up in a Rolls........ no way it should cost $100 to solder it up. I would try to find another shop.

 

In business, its better to overcharge on a job you don't want to do than say no. Apparently the shop did not want to mess with it.

 

Heater core in and working fine. I took oldcutlass advice and ordered from local napa. To be fair to the radiator shop they do good work there. The issue I had with my old core was that he said it had been repaired before in the same spot. To do it right meant he had to remove the tube and clean off both parts then reattach. That means time. He offered to presure test my new one free if I brought it in. I participate in the back to the bricks promo tour in michigan every year. I had issues with the car temp. going into the yellow while standing and idling waiting in the parade lines etc. I had the core bypassed since I don't drive in the winter. I figured I might solve the problem by getting the core back on line. Just ran it at idle for an hour with the heater and blower on. Rock streaky green. thanks for all your help guys great site.