Looking for info on how difficult it is to change out a heater core on a 69 Cutlass S. I have the glove box already out anyway just looking for any input.

 

If I remember right its all done from under the hood.on a car with AC. Go to autozone.com under repair info you probably wont find Olds. so use Chevell , Once you get top cover off its easy.Watch for hidden screws under the glue

 

An A-body doesn't have a "top cover" - that's a G-body thing. The heater core is in the box under the dash. You'll need to remove the pass. side fender, or at least the inner fender, to access all the fasteners on the firewall side of the heater box. As a word of advice, while you have the fender off replace the heater fan motor at the same time.

 

Joe now how well i remember Its been a long time, Always dreaded those Good suggestion on blower Mtr.Also buying new body bolts & speed nuts.

 

I believe Joe is right on taking the fender off. I remember taking mine out in my 70 Olds I had in high school (17 yrs ago!). I went through the inner fender in the dead of winter and it wasn't very fun. I might be doing that pretty soon and think I will take the fender off just to make it that much easier.

 

how much harder is this to accomplish without taking off the outer fender ? just the inner fender ? because taking off the outer fender at this point with my car, is a no no. thanks guys its a 69 cutlass 4-door, so the procedure itself shouldnt be that much different right ?

 

Just the inner, you may even get lucky with loosening the rear mounts of the inner to outer (the ones along the wheel well opening) and the bottom back ones enough to reach in an do the job.

 

Ok, i see what you mean, thanks a lot. It was kinda frustrating putting my heaers on, and getting antifreeze in the face, realizing one of the tubes on the core cracked. I guess ill rip that apart and replace it. Right now isnt a good time to rip the outer fender off LOL so im glad. thanks !

 

That can be a very dicey situation. Had a heater core start leaking one cold winter night, that vapor, heavily laden with anti-freeze, is terrible on the inside of the windows! The more you try to wipe it off the worse it gets.

 

LOL, yea, i know what you mean. Sorry about that. Luckily i caught this while i was under the hood, and was able to just cross the hoses for now. However the towel i left on top of the header while driving it, didnt smell that good after a couple miles. Mmmm nothing like a flaming antifreeze rag, am I right brothers ? LOL.

 

No need to take off the fender or inner fender. Take off all the nuts from the outside you can get to. One will not be accessable that is between the fender and inner fender. From the inside drill the head off that bolt, I believe its the upper right from the inside. Remove the glove box and duct work on the inside then you can remove the inner box to access the heater core. Replace heater core and reinstall the inner box and duct work. As for the one bolt you drill the head off I don't worry about it the other bolts hold it just fine. I have done this on A bodys with and without AC its alot easier and quicker then pulling the fender. Hope this helps JKaz

 

I too am trying to replace the heater core on my 64 Cutlass.

I managed to get all 5 bolts off (actually 4 easy nuts and one arm twisting, bitch to get too, nut) as per my Olds repair manual. They were exactly in the places they said they would be. Supposedly, the cover just comes off but the darn thing just won't. right side is free, but the left side (near the fender) will come off a 1/4 inch or so but won't slide out, towards the center so I can get at the core. Only thing I can think of is perhaps there a fan or something that is mounted in the firewall and holding it back. I'm perplexed. Can anyone shed some light on this?

 

Usually there are also some nuts as well. If you can't see all the way around the edge (which you probably can't) then try using a small mirror like women use in their purse and a flashlight. Hold the flashlight as close as you can to your face and aim it at the mirror and then angle the mirror until you can inspect all around the edge of the housing. You may find an additional nut mounted on a stud projecting from the firewall.