I’ve just ordered a set of front wheel bearings for my ‘55 Super 88 from Kanter (best price I could find). My mechanic suggested I replace them after driving the car for an unrelated checkout. He noticed a noise, did a little checking and determined that they were pretty worn. They’re probably the ones the car was born with. Is there anything I should know before I start the project? Recommendations on wheel bearing grease brands? I’m wondering if I could convince my wife to pack the new bearings for me by telling her how good the bearing grease is for her hands . . .

 

Any general purpose wheel bearing grease is fine.

 

My wife uses it on her face and does a great job of hiding all her wrinkles

 

And no more squeeks...

 

Beautiful car. Love the wheels.

 

I would use grease rated NLGI-2 and GC/LB. Valvoline gray synthetic has this rating as do other major brands.

Good luck!!!

 

Thank you.

 

Dave, they make bearing packers should you feel like springing for one.

 

I did not have luck with the cheap bearing packer. Just get gloves. You would need away, even with bearing packers.

Palm packing by hand, always made me feel that it was done right. Getting all the old grease out.

Blue high temperature grease. Has worked well for the way I drive.

 

Here's what the 1955 Oldsmobile Shop Manual has to say:

Lubricate front wheel bearings every 7,000 miles with a good quality sodium or sodium and calcium base wheel bearing grease of Number 3 consistency.
Pack the ball and separator assemblies full, but do not put grease on hub as excess grease increases the chances of leakage into the brakes and prevents proper heat dissipation.
When it is found necessary to remove the front wheel bearings for cleaning, the bearings should be washed in clean gasoline (not light oil). If the bearings are washed in light oil, the grease will not adhere to the bearings and the bearings will run dry.

The adjustment of front wheel bearings should be made as follows:
1. Tighten adjusting nut with torque wrench to approximately 17 ft.-pounds to insure that all parts are properly seated and threads are free.
2. Back off nut and re-tighten to 4 ft.-pounds.
3. If cotter pin hole in spindle and slot in nut line up insert cotter pin; otherwise, back off adjusting nut to nearest line-up of slot and hole and insert cotter pin.

 

Dave, I posted NLGI 2, Ozzie's reference to the factory manual says 3. Anyone know the difference/which is better in this application?

 

These are ball bearings that we're talking about here, not tapered roller bearings.
Perhaps that is the difference in grease requirements?