First Post...I come to learn!
#81
I believe you are referring to Sail panels and the boards are about 30 bucks and you have them covered.
You need to get a Year One and a Fusick Catalog to see what cost what. I really do think the material in print is easier to go through than on line.
You need to get a Year One and a Fusick Catalog to see what cost what. I really do think the material in print is easier to go through than on line.
#84
lol here i thought i was the young padawan here xD
trust me...i do not intend to "test" your knowledge
im just curious thats all xD
im just trying to see the whooooole picture before i jump in and realize that i missed a pretty big piece
trust me...i do not intend to "test" your knowledge
im just curious thats all xD
im just trying to see the whooooole picture before i jump in and realize that i missed a pretty big piece
#85
interior
Carpets and door panels are not too hard to do yourself. the headliner may be a little tricky from what I have heard. I have one to put in for my brother's 52 and have been putting it off for now. It is always better to find a car with a solid frame and floor etc. than a faded or cracked interior. You may find an Arizona car where it was kept in a garage and has a decent interior.
#86
Carpets and door panels are not too hard to do yourself. the headliner may be a little tricky from what I have heard. I have one to put in for my brother's 52 and have been putting it off for now. It is always better to find a car with a solid frame and floor etc. than a faded or cracked interior. You may find an Arizona car where it was kept in a garage and has a decent interior.
looks like im heading out west
Bet you guys cant figure out why i wouldnt take this awesome deal
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1096527833.html
Last edited by Ezeikial; March 30th, 2009 at 09:26 PM.
#87
getting it
now your thimking. this one looks pretty good but like everything buying anything sight unseen is a mistake. If you are going to take a trip out west then pick a few cars to look at during that trip. Have a goal in mind before you set out , for instance this last car looks solid but is a daily driver and needs a little work. $3500 is a good price so if the frame and body panels are in pretty good shape and the interior is not a complete disaster then it would be a good buy cause you would have some extra bucks to work on it.If you find a car that looks good but takes your whole budget it would have to be a car that really would need no or little work for a few years.you can even find some cars in dry northern climates that are ok simply cause it is dry and salt free.North East cars are the ones that are usually the ones that face the most problems due to salt. Here where I live they salt the roads in the winter and there is a lot of humidity from the Atlantic Ocean being so close. Cold humid winters plus salt on the roads and in the air is bad for any metals. If you don't take measures to protect your vehicle every year and you drive it in the winter , and most new cars are until they become collectable, rust is a problem. I found this car in halifax which is close to me but the guy I bought it from found it out west on the prairies. It spent most of it's life there and though it is cold in the winter it is dry and salt free. The frame is very ,very solid and even the floor pan and floor in the trunk is solid with little or no rust and no holes. This is something that I checked right away because living here you just get used to checking that first. Then I check to see if it is mechanically sound and does not need a lot of work , this one worked fine but the motor was dirty because of 2 leaks. One was a front seal on the oilpan and the second was from a P/S leak from the hose where it it was clamped by the pump. easy problems to fix. The upside is that the oil and P/S fluid coated a lot of the block and firewall and when I took a rag and wiped it off there was no rust under it. It has been a big job for me to clean up the motor and engine bay but it is something that I have done completely by myself. I am not a mechanic and don't have all the tools I wish I had but there are two advantages that I do have . The first is this website where there are a lot of guys who know what they are talking about and are happy to help you out and the second is the 1969 sevice manual for the car which has a ton of information on the motor and drivetrain of the car. There are good buys out there right now so keep looking , you will find the right one for you. All cars look better in pictures than they do in person so the best advice I can give you is to check it out in person.
#89
now your thimking. this one looks pretty good but like everything buying anything sight unseen is a mistake. If you are going to take a trip out west then pick a few cars to look at during that trip. Have a goal in mind before you set out , for instance this last car looks solid but is a daily driver and needs a little work. $3500 is a good price so if the frame and body panels are in pretty good shape and the interior is not a complete disaster then it would be a good buy cause you would have some extra bucks to work on it.If you find a car that looks good but takes your whole budget it would have to be a car that really would need no or little work for a few years.you can even find some cars in dry northern climates that are ok simply cause it is dry and salt free.North East cars are the ones that are usually the ones that face the most problems due to salt. Here where I live they salt the roads in the winter and there is a lot of humidity from the Atlantic Ocean being so close. Cold humid winters plus salt on the roads and in the air is bad for any metals. If you don't take measures to protect your vehicle every year and you drive it in the winter , and most new cars are until they become collectable, rust is a problem. I found this car in halifax which is close to me but the guy I bought it from found it out west on the prairies. It spent most of it's life there and though it is cold in the winter it is dry and salt free. The frame is very ,very solid and even the floor pan and floor in the trunk is solid with little or no rust and no holes. This is something that I checked right away because living here you just get used to checking that first. Then I check to see if it is mechanically sound and does not need a lot of work , this one worked fine but the motor was dirty because of 2 leaks. One was a front seal on the oilpan and the second was from a P/S leak from the hose where it it was clamped by the pump. easy problems to fix. The upside is that the oil and P/S fluid coated a lot of the block and firewall and when I took a rag and wiped it off there was no rust under it. It has been a big job for me to clean up the motor and engine bay but it is something that I have done completely by myself. I am not a mechanic and don't have all the tools I wish I had but there are two advantages that I do have . The first is this website where there are a lot of guys who know what they are talking about and are happy to help you out and the second is the 1969 sevice manual for the car which has a ton of information on the motor and drivetrain of the car. There are good buys out there right now so keep looking , you will find the right one for you. All cars look better in pictures than they do in person so the best advice I can give you is to check it out in person.
Also...Sorry guys that ive been MIA for the last couple of days
i didnt forget about you guys but i have been looking around tho
i got a solid answer from my friend who about buying my car
and he said that he would take it off of me for $3,000, so i have a solid foundation to build on from there. i want to get about $2,000 before i seriously start looking to buy
#90
nickd
welcome to the site nickd. tell us your story , you need to get 5 posts in to have privilages on the site so keep writing in. This being an Olds site do you have an Olds or what is you story?
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