Finally wasn't cold of raining but here are the numbers


Head 3A
Block is 4B

 

77-80 350 heads on a 403 block. Not a bad start, could be better, but not bad. Get the leaks fixed?

 

Unfortunately it's dumping fluid from the rear maine seal and trans seal. I've replaced the rear seal once before so I am thinking about rebuilding the engine completely with at least a cam bump. I have $3k - $3500 to put towards the engine build. Just not sure of what can be done on a budget that I have.

 

My car originally had a 403, and with a cam, headers, engine tuning, and rear axle, ran pretty good. Good idea, keeping an eye on the actual value of the car though, before doing much. Thinkin' you're at the point, of just replacing some leaky gaskets/seals, and driving it for couple more years. Another thing, if the tranny filter is plugged, can spit fluid out of the top vent. Also, on the cam change, usually need different length pushrods too.

 

At this point should I just worry about replacing seals/gaskets than rebuilding engine? I was hoping to get a little more horsepower out of engine with some cam for listening pleasures. DeltaPace77, so the addition of a new Cam, headers, tuning and the 3.73 gears(already have) should get me a little more performance i'm guessing? Unfortunately I have yet too find Headears offered from Summit Racing. The car value is everything to me that's why i'll own it too the end(Love my baby).

 

Since you're younger and new to this game, let me enlighten you to something alot of people are misinformed about.
All your crate engines are rated by what they make on an engine dyno in perfect conditions with headers and no accessories.

That's called "GROSS hp" ratings. This is how GM rated their engines before 1972.
That's not what the engine is going to make inside your engine bay with all the accessories on it.

Deduct roughly 50-60hp and that's what you end up with. So the 310hp rating is really going to be ~250-260hp once it's in the car.
That's called SAE Net horsepower, and that's how GM rated it's engines in cars after 1972 to the present.

Alot of engine sellers advertise GROSS hp ratings because it sounds better.......and buyers are often disappointed afterwards.
Keep this in mind when you're shopping for crate engines

Last but not least......
If you're an Oldsmobile purist and wish to keep it Oldsmobile, learn how to fix the motor you have.
If you don't care about an old Oldsmobile motor being in your car, grab a GM Vortec motor or LS1 and throw it in.

There's a guy on Nastyz28 right now who just picked up a wrecked 1999 Z28 with 108K on it for $1000.
That 320hp (SAE net rated) LS1/T-56 drivetrain alone is worth $4000 on the market. It's goin into his classic.
This is just an example of another option you can go with. If you're interested in learning more, you can PM me.

 

Thanks for the great info about the crate engines and advertisement for sale. I do want to keep it olds, just for the reason of the general thoughts of Chevy owners thinking Olds can't make some real hourse power(I love going against the grain). Right now just want to do anything to add a little power, at the same time getting it back running. Hopefully after I get it back running for about 2-3 years I can really save the money and get me an olds 455 with the works to replace the 350.

 

That's cool, I can respect that.
I'm a GM enthusiast. I like all GM lines.

Olds have very torquey motors. It would do you well to consider what base Olds engine would be the best to
get to your end goals. Sometimes starting with a very weak motor isn't going to yield the best results no matter
how much $$$ you throw at it. Sure it can be done, but with a very bad investment to gain % and end result.

Head flow is the biggest thing you need to get the most bang for your buck, start with great heads and the rest
falls into place for you with larger % gains from cam upgrades. So I'd strongly consider aftermarket high flowing heads.

Another thing is sometimes upgrades can get you the HP you want, but the engine sucks more gas then your wallet
can afford to feed it to drive it routinely. So keep in mind efficiency for every buck you invest into it.
Anyone can build a radical motor by throwing $$$ at it. Not many can build high hp and keep it REALLY efficient.
I'm assuming this has a 2004R overdrive trans in it, but you need to make sure it's built up to handle the HP you're looking into.

Unless of course......you're drag racing this only, then that all goes out the window.
But since this is a 4 door large sedan, I'm speculating that's not your end goal here.

With $5 a gallon fuel coming for all of us this Summer (it's already here in , IL, Cali and other areas)
I'm very conscious of efficiency to drive my cars as often as I can.

 

After market heads! Who makes a decent priced aftermarket head for small block Oldsmobile? Have been looking for a 455 but can't find nothing in my area

 

Edelbrock? But with a tight budget, a set of reworked '60s 330/350 heads would be your best bet.

 

Am I missing something? I have an Edelbrock catalog but I don't see any heads made for the sbo..

 

Don't think Edelbrock ever made SBO specific cylinder heads, only BBO heads, that can be made to work on SBO's, with intake port matching work. Don't think I'd recommend this, as this kind of work can get expensive, and really not the proper head for the SBO.
Reworked pre 71' W-31 heads are what you're really wanting, but bend over. Really think your best bet is going BBO 455, as far easier to make power with.

 

You have to actually read the catalog:

 

I know it's an old thread but I actually found someone in the area who had a 455 complete engine that ran when pulled but the engine has set up for years. Aking price was $900 for something I would have to rebuild anyway. So i'm still on a hunt for a 455 at least until January then i will explore other options from their.