Destructor

Any tips on removing a dist that has been in and out a number of times recently but now won't budge beyond maybe pulling out 1/2" or so. No corrosion on distributor and always has come out with little problems. I sprayed with WD40 but still stuck. I know I can replace points while in engine but I would rather remove it. If I keep in in I'm just kicking the can down the road. I have never had this much trouble before. If I get it out I may emmery cloth the shaft. It's not the usual problem of a distributor being in for many years without removal.

442Harv

What is probably happening, is the oil pump shaft is stuck in the distributor, The shaft also has a keeper on it, to hold the shaft in place when putting it together. So you have to pull real hard, to pull it off the keeper, I have had the same problem, when out the keeper will fall to the bottom of the pan, but will not be a problem. Have to be careful when putting the shaft back in.

don71

You might try some carb cleaner or another solvent to loosen the coked up varnish that accumulates around the shaft.

Destructor

Engine hasn't been run beyond 5 minutes at most since I last installed it. I installed a clean distributor but the points I only cleaned but now I have a new set so I'm putting those in. Distributor always slips in and out with just a little fussing, even after a few years between removal. Now it barely moves up an eighth inch or so. It spins with no problem. Whenever it's come out it has had a pretty good coat of oil so it should be lubed well enough.

Destructor

It finally popped after shaking it like mad and pulling. I also hand cranked the engine a few degrees CC. Strange the way it got hung up. No point cleanig up the shaft. It is perfectly smooth with no score marks.

oldcutlass

Put a small amount of anti seize on the end of the pump shaft that slips into the gear.

Schurkey

Don't ever file points. You'd destroy the tungsten plating that reduces burning, and you lose surface area when you knock off the "cone" of transferred metal.

I would not want copper/aluminum particles in the crankcase where they'll be washed away by oil mist.

edzolz

Unless you are stupid and use half a tube of anti-seize on the end of the distributor drive shaft, there shouldn't be enough to even show up on an oil analysis and absolutely not enough to harm any bearings or lifters in the engine.

Destructor

Distributor is back in with new points. It went in and out no problem as I was lining up the rotor with no. 1.

bccan

FWIW - The best tool I have found for stuck distributors is a small auto body slide hammer (not a big one!), it has a flat hook, short enough to fit under open hood. 1, 2 maybe a third gentle tap & out comes pesky distributor with no damage to part & no stress, aggravation or damage to user. (how’s your back feel after a round or two fighting with one of those stuck rear mounted distributors?!?)

3# Slide Hammer https://www.autobodytoolmart.com//3-...0aAv23EALw_wcB

Schurkey

Or do it the Factory way, when they're varnished into place.