pogo69

I'm getting close to starting my car and went oil shopping I had to say screw that to the 10-12 dollar a quart fancy high zinc semi and full synthetic oil...Here is what I just put in the engine, ACCEL 10-40 SF rated 1100ppm zinc conventional oil for 1988 and earlier cars sold at walmart for about 2.69 a qt. and thats that hope its good

RetroRanger

it probably is good enough, but IMHO ~$60 a year (once a year oil changes) or ~$12 a year...I think I would just pop for the good stuff

I have a niche bike a lot of guys try to save money on oils by buying rotella or other non bike oils...alot of guys have issues w their engines (not neccesarily the same guys but its difficult to tally) I just buy the better MC oils and have had no issues , blind luck ? maybe, but for the ~$20 extra per year I think its money well spent.

70cutty

Most common mistake that people make after spending thousands of dollars on their engines is getting cheap oil and filters.
I would at the very least add some additive. I always run Joe Gibbs on my non-roller engines. It's usually $8 a quart. JMO.

Nilsson

That will work just fine. Look at it this way, that oil is far superior than the oils available when the car was new. I use nothing but Dino
oil. My original 400g block has never been rebuilt, and has 119,000 miles. Granted, it is starting to show it's age.

oldcutlass

I would say for break in that oil is fine, 4 qts and a qt of GM EOS. After break in drain it and put a new filter and quality oil to run it.

Oldsmaniac

Here is what I found while searching for Accel Oil, the short of what was said here is Accell is short of zinc compared to other oils.

This is old news,i did later test that walmart accell oil approx 3yr back and it had 800ppm zddp when stock mild cams need a minimum of 1200-1300ppm zddp for a normal /longer srv'c life and 800ppm doesnt cut it,esp when perf cams need a little more zddp (depending on cam's perf lvl-lobe design & spring rate being run) for proper/longest srv'c life.

Here ya go again,pick your poison/LOL!!!!

Scott
================================================== ========

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
4) OIL THAT'S GREAT FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE FLAT TAPPET CAM PROTECTION POST BREAKIN . THIS OIL IS ALSO GOOD FOR BREAKIN OF HIGH PERF FLAT TAPPET CAM'S WHEN USED WITH PROPER OIL ADDITIVE LIKE GM EOS OR LUCAS TB ZINC MENTIONED ABOVE.

SUMMIT'S NEW (SPECTRO RE-PKG) CONVENTIONAL HIGH PERF FLAT TAPPET CAM OIL WITH 1,800PPM ZDDP

LINK TO SPECTRO MOTORGUARD OIL FOR FT CAM/LIFTERS

http://goldenmotorguard.com/cart/ind...e=products_all

* SUM-MGSAE30 (USE WITH OIL ADDITIVE LISTED ABOVE FOR BREAKIN BUT POST BREAKIN THIS OIL CAN BE USED ALONE WITH NO ADDITIVE TO PROTECT ANY HIGH PERF FLAT TAPPET CAM )

* SUM-MG10W40 (USE WITH OIL ADDITIVE LISTED ABOVE FOR BREAKIN BUT POST BREAKIN THIS OIL CAN BE USED ALONE WITH NO ADDITIVE TO PROTECT ANY HIGH PERF FLAT TAPPET CAM)

* SUM-MG20W50 (USE WITH OIL ADDITIVE LISTED ABOVE FOR BREAKIN BUT POST BREAKIN THIS OIL CAN BE USED ALONE WITH NO ADDITIVE TO PROTECT ANY HIGH PERF FLAT TAPPET CAM)

NOTE,THE ABOVE OIL IS ALSO AVAIL IN SEMI BLEND ,SEE SUMMITS SITE FOR DETAILS/PT#'S.

================================================== ===========================
5) ADDITIONAL OIL WITH PROPER ZDDP LVLS FOR FT CAM PROTECTION SOME AVAIL AT STORES WHERE NOTED BUT OTHERS ARE AVAIL ON PERSPECTIVE WEBSITES

* SPECTRO MOTORGUARD SERIES OIL SPECIFICALLY MFG'D FOR FT CAM'D MOTORS,SAME AS SUMMITS NEW HI PERF OIL FOR FT CAM'D MOTORS.

* CEN-PE-CO

* JOE GIBBS HOT ROD OIL

* MOTOR HEAD HI " Z " OIL

* CLASSIC CAR OIL

* VALVOLINES VR1 RACE OIL (AVAIL AT MOST AUTOZONE-AUTO STORES IN GENERAL) (HAS PROPER DETERGENT LVL FOR STREET)

* CHEVRON DELO LE 15W-40 (AVAIL AT MOST STORES/HAS ENOUGH ZINC/PHOS/ZDDP FOR STOCK TO MODERATE LVL PERF CAMS)

* CAM2 RACE OIL

* REDLINE RACE OIL (HAS LOWER DET LVL SO NEEDS MORE FREQUENT OIL CHANGE FOR STREET USE)

* ROYAL PURPLE RACE OIL (CK ZDDP LVL BEFORE BUYING,NOT ALL GRADES HAVE AMPLE ZDDP)

* BRAD PENN RACE OIL

* PENNZOIL 25W-50 GT RACE OIL
=============================================

6)OIL ADDITIVES TO BE USED WITH SM RATED MOTORS OIL NOT HAVING ENOUGH ZDDP WHEN RUNNING FT CAMS. THEY AVAIL ON THIER PERSPECTIVE SITES AND SOME STORES LIKE SUMMIT/JEGS/EASTWOOD

* ZDDPLUS

* CAMSHIELD

* MOTOR HI " Z " ZINC ADDITIVE
=============================================

(7)THESE BELOW MENTIONED CAM/LIFTER BREAKIN ADDITIVES CAN BE USED IN A PINCH ALONG WITH SM RATED OIL WITH LOW ZDDP LVL,PT #'S ARE LISTED ABOVE IN THIS NOTE UNDER #2 OIL ADDITIVES FOR FT CAM BREAKIN

* GM EOS

* CRANE SUPERLUBE BREAKIN CONCENTRATE

* LUCAS TB ZINC BREAKIN LUBE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

dnmfranco

Morgan when Steve re-built my engine we used VR1 for break in. Drained after break in then another 5 quarts for 500 miles or so.
He swears by it for what its worth

MDchanic

These oil threads come up constantly, over and over and over again.
If we just combined them all into one thread, you would be able to see the same people giving the same opinions, and quoting the same buddies, mechanics, or web sites, on and on, forever.

That being said, I will proceed to do the same. Here is a post that I posted here, explaining why I use 1½-2oz of Lucas TB Break-In Treatment and 5 quarts of any decent oil at every oil change:

"In terms of ZDDP, I was looking around for information on the Lucas break-in additive ("Lucas TB-Zinc-Plus Break-in Oil Additive"), as I know some use it after break-in, and I found this thread, in which the poster quotes a Lucas rep as refusing to disclose the exact ZDDP content of their additive, but stating that adding a bottle to 5 quarts of regular oil will get you a ZDDP level of 5,200ppm (0.52%).
I looked, but could find no references to ZDDP content in any of Lucas's own literature.

A poster on that thread does the math correctly and shows that if the information in the statement is correct, then you need only 1¼oz (2½ tbsp) of break-in additive to get your average 800ppm oil up to the recommended 1,100-1,200ppm, so using the Lucas additive (at about $16 for a pint, or $1 an ounce, or $1.50-$1.75 per oil change) with your favorite regular oil would appear to be a cost effective choice.

I have not contacted any of these companies myself with any of these questions, but if any of our "retired guys" were looking for something to do, that might make a nice project. "

- Eric

66-3X2 442

Take this for what it's worth. The engine shop I use has a very good relationship with Comp Cams. Comp Cams told them that the zinc additives do not work as well as the blended oils that come with it already. They said that for the zinc to blend with the oil,it's best done during the oil production. I completely understand trying to find ways of cutting costs as to our cars but oil is not one of the things I will compromise on. I use Brad Penn (the old Kendall) and it cost me $6.50 a quart. A bargain compared to a wiped out camshaft in my book.

pogo69

i know there are volumes of motor oil data but i'm also as old school as you can get so when i saw this was SF rated and specifically said on the back label not to use this oil in post 1988 cars i said ''perfect'' and i was thinking this just like the oil oil recipe from the 1960's-70's...i also cannot see how any oil for a street car should cost up to 10-12 bucks for a qt i feel like i'm getting ripped off

70cutty

Well our cars are not really considered "street cars" anymore, they are considered classics and as we all know, owning a classic car is a expensive hobby that's not for everybody. When you say street car I think of 1975 and up. Edit: 1980 and up cause 70's cars are still pretty cool. After 80 they are not really considered classics.
even on my brand new DD, I use the better oil cause I want it to last longer.

76olds

I feel like I get ripped off every-time I tell my wife I need a lube job and oil change. I just couldn't begin to ask for a new filter to go with it.

jag1886

I totally agree, I don't understand spending good money on an engine rebuild an then want to cut corners to save a few dollars on oil.
Maybe someday when you need an operation they can just put colored water instead of blood in your IV to save a few bucks.

bkeese

Our engines need 1100ppm zddp which equates to an API of CJ4. Any CJ4 will work including the cheap stuff. If you fell better about the boutique oils then buy them. An SF rating is NOT suffient for your engine unless it states CJ4 also. It is the CJ4 rating that has 1100 ppm zddp. If you are interested in a loooong read I will attempt to cut and paste an article from the NCRS Corvette Restorer on this subject, written by Duke Williams.

Copied form the NCRS forum.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some "mechanics" haven't learned anything new since the fifties.

Modern moly faced ring sets, in use by GM since the seventies, don't need a dedicated "break-in". The same goes for OE camshafts. GM did not do a "cam breakin", but running the engine on initial start at 2000 for 20 minutes while you check for leaks and proper cooling is not a bad idea.

Just use 15W-40 CJ-4 for the initial fill, and a pint of GM EOS is optional. Change the filter after the first couple of hours of operation as it can get clogged with assembly lube and debris, but don't change the oil. Just top it off and run the normal distance of a few thousand miles or one year, whichever comes first.

Duke

Your brother is incorrect. The additive package is a function of the API service category, not the viscosity grade. If he used a 10W-40 it was a SM or SN oil, not a CJ-4. He's way behind the power curve on current oil formulations.

As far as this TV story is concerned, it seems some have concluded that "cheap oil" was the cause of the problem. Poor quality parts (like improper hardness of the lobes or lifters), excess valve spring force, or improper installation is not a possibility?

Failed cams in rebuilt engines are not that uncommon, and it's usually blamed on the oil, but if all the facts come out it usually turns out to be component quality, component compatibility, or installation issue.

Certain aftermarket cam manufacturers seem to almost always be a part of these stories. That's why my first choice for replacement cams is either Federal Mogul (Sealed Power, Speed Pro) or Dana Corp. (Clevite), both of which are Tier 1 OE suppliers. If you want an aftermarket or custom design I have had good experience with Crane.

Here's an example. A local chapter member recently had his 327/300 heads rebuilt by what was supposed to be a reputable shop, and he went over the parts list with me after the job was done. I was not familiar with the parts supplier, but they do have an online catalog, and from what I was able to determine the new valve springs are equivalent to the 3927142 spring that was designed for the Tran-Am racing cams. I told him he needed to get them out of there and replace with OE equivalent springs before a cam lobe got wiped out or rocker studs started pulling.

It turns out the head work did not solve the oil consumption problem, so the engine came out for a complete rebuild by another shop.

These stories are common. The archives are full of them.

Duke
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Do what you want but you can take this guy to the bank!!!!!!!

70cutty

Engine rebuilding $5-10k sometimes more depending on the build.
8 quarts (milodon deep sump in my case) of best oil out there with highest zinc content, etc. + good quality filter in a worst case scenario $140 (usually $100), having a peace of mind - PRICELESS.

There is no way in hell that cheap oil that cost $2+ is the same quality as Joe Gibbs or Royal Purple.
I would much rather spent the extra money and have the good quality oil in my engine.

bkeese

That is exactly how STP became a household name!

jpc647

I disagree. I've used the Accel Brand oil, and continue too. And if you compare their spec sheet to any other off the shelf oil. With higher zinc levels. If the Accel oil was $6.50 a quart, by your logic, you'd buy it because you feel like you're getting more because you spent more.

If you've got a W-30, or a nice hi-po rebuilt motor, maybe the $100 is worth it for you. Some of us don't have high dollar cars, or high output motors. Some of our cars even leak a little. Sorry, but I don't buy into the Joe Gibbs oil phenomenon. Sorry, not spending $100 for an oil change for a Cutlass. It's a standard output motor, it doesn't need special treatment.

It's really the same mentality when I pull up to a stop light in my Genesis to an M3 and I smoke him all the way up to 100+. It's brand marketing. I get the "But it's still a Hyundai". Yeah, it is, but I'm faster, more agile, longer warranty, and for the extra $15k, I can do a lot. Enjoy you're $200 oil changes forever....

70cutty

To each is his own. I have several classics and I pamper them. Most of my engines are not stock, not too crazy, but not stock. I don't mind spending $100 on a oil change, since most of the times it's only once or twice a year. You wanna treat your 45 year or older car like your new Hyundai, go ahead. I like to know that my classic car has appropriate treatment.
It's cheap insurance.

14s 1/4 genesis vs 12s M3.

MDchanic

NOW I have to disagree.

With the exception of highly built engines, which may have specific needs, using a cheap oil with adequate zinc is 100% appropriate for a 45 year old engine.

Reiterating what an earlier poster said: These are not highly tuned, highly stressed engines with meticulous clearances. They are simple, low-tech, brute force engines that were mass produced in a fairly casual manner. They were designed to run on very basic oils, and they run fine on them, and using any oil of reasonable quality will not affect their performance or durability one bit, especially in the case you describe of only being driven limited distances.
Looked at another way, that Hyundai engine is much more highly engineered, and requires a much more carefully formulated oil than your 45 year old Olds engine does.

Spend your money any way you want, but please don't confuse your own personal beliefs with what is "appropriate."

- Eric

Gary M

I use Brad Penn Racing Oil. I saw an episode of GAS MONKEY GARAGE that installed a crate engine with regular oil and the zink additive and it did not mix properly resulting in engine failure. I don't care if you like the show, I became a believer! Premixed oil for me.

hilbily

I'm the kind of guy that probably changes his oil a little more frequently than most. I just use a good dino oil. I think the synthetics are fine for race cars and air cooled Motorcycles but in my case I don't think the extra expense is worth it. I work for a stock car team and that's all we run, but we have extreme heat conditions. My Harley has had Red Line 20-50 it's entire life. In my option synthetic handles the heat better but it still has all the contaminants in the oil, so shouldn't it be changed every 3-4000 miles?

MDchanic

Fair enough, and I don't have any statistically valid information to disprove your opinion, but I will contribute that I have a Jeep with a Chrysler 4.7 V8 that's had high quality synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1 or other name brands) since new, and that I've got for sale now at 298,000 miles. Runs great, no smoke, oil pressure the same as the day it drove off the lot.

As I say, it's an n of 1, but it's at least an encouraging data point for synthetic oil.

And, yes, it does leak like a sieve.

- Eric

70cutty

my engines are not stock thy are not 45 year old beaters, so what's appropriate for mine doesn't apply to everybody. I was talking about my cars as in " I like to know that MY car has the appropriate treatment." like I said to each is his own.
I just don't undestand the whole thing about dropping $7-8k on a engine and than using the cheapest oil out there.

70cutty

Are you guys telling me that oils like Joe Gibbs Driven Hot Rod oil are NOT specifically for cars like mine, weekend warriors that don't get driven that often? Just wandering. Maybe i've been fooled by their sales tactics.

Is this a false claim??

Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Oil
• Uses the same oil additive technology developed for the U.S. Military for storing and shipping their combat equipment.
• Protects against rust and corrosion so your engine is protected even when it’s not running.
• Higher levels of Zinc (ZDDP) than regular passenger car oils. Delivers proper anti-wear protection for older style push-rod and flat- tappet engines.
• Superior camshaft wear protection chemistry. The same wear protection found in Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil which has powered Joe Gibbs Racing to multiple NASCAR Championships.
• Our synthetic formula provides improved cold-start protection compared to mineral oils.

RetroRanger

I'm glad this hasn't turned into rathole like all the other oil threads !

I'm sure there is some added protection w using an oil like Joe Gibbs. I also think the accel oil is probably fine as well ( for regular street driven cars) probably the best insurance is any acceptable oil and regular changes.

For most of us who will only drive our older cars less than 3 k per year the car will only require a single oil change. For the relatively minor price difference amortised over a year to me it doesn't make sense to not use something specifically made for older cars. I agree w 70cutty and JPC the more $ in my engine, the more likely I am to spend a little more on oil.

jpc647

Actually, The Hyundai oil is a Partial-Synthetic blend, and it gets changed every 4000 miles. Its rated for 7500. But, she's daily driver, and my livelihood depends on her. I need to get to work, I need to get to my engineering meetings, and she winds up to 7400rpm, when she needs to.


Secondly, car and driver ran 13.5 in a 2011 Genesis, and 12.9 in M3. I myself ran 13.8 bone stock. I've done a tune, intake manifold porting/coating, CAI, and an Exhaust for less than $1000.



Well well said, sir, very well said.


From you're profile picture, it looks like you have a W-30. Hard to tell, but it looks like it. A high-output 455 may benefit from Brad Penn. Secondly, for engine break in, that's a whole different argument. Break in oil is not intended to be run for everyday street use.



So their engine oil is what allowed teams to win Nascar!? So cars that ran Mobil or any other brand consistently have a disadvantage, sorry but by definition that is a marketing ploy. And the same technology, kind of like Dawn saying we use the same sudsing technology as Palmolive. Too much ZDDP is also not good.

I'm not trying to sound sarcastic or dig at you here, I just don't feel that your average 'run of the mill' classic car benefits at all from the boutique oils.

Besides, any of us with older rebuilt motors, risk leaks from switching to synthetic. The inside of my engine is pretty clean, I've had a lot of it apart, but I do get the occasional spot here or there. Don't want to make it worse.

If I thought my car would benefit from Joe Gibbs or Valvoline VR1/etc, I would buy it. I just don't feel 9/10 classic cars do.

MDchanic

70Cutty, unfortunately, I do not feel qualified to address your points about motor oil claims specifically (though I would hope the some member here who is an oil engineer might), but I will say this in general:

Generally, product claims based on military or NASA development, or giving MilSpec numbers, ain't worth much when you check into the details.
The MilSpec numbers usually specify the most basic standards, and the development is usually more like Tang or Velcro than like nuclear fusion.

All oils protect against rust and corrosion.
It doesn't say that it does this better than any other oil.

Higher levels of zinc can be attained with a wide variety of other oils and additives as well.

All synthetic oils provide improved cold-start protection compared to mineral oils.
That's like saying "Our steel is harder than butter."

I know nothing about their camshaft wear additives, but I will say that one should exercise caution when a driving oil makes claims based on racing oils, as racing oils are designed with a completely different environment in mind, such as oil being changed every few hours (or even more often), which means that they lack the ability to hold onto and neutralize harmful chemicals over the long term.

As I say, this is not my area of expertise, but I am not impressed by these claims.

- Eric

70cutty

I apologize if I came off as an @$$ in my earlier posts, that was not my intention. Please don't get me wrong, not trying to argue here just trying to get the facts straight.

Will oil such as JG Hot Rod oil or that's formulated for cars that are not DD's, but more of a weekend warriors, give my car more protection than oil such as Accel?

The reason I am asking is because of articles like one below that I pasted and because it costs me $10 a quart. Usually I don't believe everything that I read about these products, but I heard from many different sources that this is one of the best oils for cars such as mine.
More I read about oils, more I am confused.
I apologize for the super long post.

"Modern API certified oils are designed to protect emissions control equipment like catalytic converters. Driven Hot Rod Oil is designed to protect your camshaft! With high levels of ZDDP to protect your engine, Driven Hot Rod Oil delivers the chemistry that classic cars, muscle cars and historic racers need. Because these cars are not daily drivers, Driven Hot Rod Oil also delivers storage protection additives to guard your engine from rust and corrosion. These additives also prevent dry starts. Developed specifically for older cars, no other oil provides this unique combination of lubricant chemistry.

Modern engine designs and modern oils have done a great job reducing emissions and protecting emissions control equipment. However, modern oils have played havoc on older engines. The reduction in emissions in modern cars has coincided with a reduction in traditional anti-wear additives (i.e. zinc dithiophosphates) in modern oils. While this is great for the environment, it is bad news for your flat-tappet camshaft.

As stated in the book Lubrication Fundamentals,”In heavily loaded applications, flat tappet cam followers operate on partial oil films at least part of the time. Lubricants with anti-wear additives are necessary if rapid wear and surface distress are to be avoided. The oil additive Zinc Dithiophosphate is to provide anti-wear activity for the camshaft and lifters.” Simply put, you shouldn’t use oil designed for modern engines in older style engines.

Protecting your engine when it is operating is critical. However, more wear occurs during start-up than at any other time. A recent European study of Heavy Duty Diesel engines revealed a 50% reduction in cold-start wear by using synthetic oil in comparison to conventional oil. Reduced cold start wear means longer engine life! Driven Hot Rod Oil meets the latest SAE J300 Cold Cranking requirements, so you can give your engine the Cold-Start protection it needs as well as the Zinc anti-wear chemistry to keep your camshaft protected.

PREVENTS RUST & CORROSION DURING STORAGE!
Because Driven Hot Rod Oil is designed specifically for older style historic car and hot rod engines, it also features US Military specification rust and corrosion inhibitors. These unique additives fight the formation of rust and defend against corrosion while your car is in the garage or storage. Pictured below are the results of a 1,000 hour severe storage simulation test. The surfaced treated with Driven Hot Rod Oil showed NO rust or corrosion!"



When your car sits in the garage over the winter, Driven Hot Rod Oil fights corrosive wear and rust. When you fire the engine up, Driven Hot Rod Oil protects your engine from excessive cold start wear. When you put the pedal to the floor, Driven Hot Rod Oil protects your camshaft from scuffing. No other oil provides this level of protection in the garage, at start-up and on the road.

Gary M

I'll be using Brad Penn per my builder. Do as you wish. It's your ride.

Boilerz25

VR1 was recommended by the motor shop that built mine. It is also readily available which is nice.

Sean

tru-blue 442

Valvoline VR1 racing oil for me.
30 wt in the Summer, 10-W30 in Winter.

Castrol GTX 10-30 year around for the daily's,
including the 99 Votech 350 work truck. 145K and going strong.

bkeese

I think you article is a bit bias. Remember your engine is 45 years old and oils have improved greatly in 45 years, but engines have moved to catalytic converters and roller camshafts. Both do not require or need high levels of ZDDP. None of us should ever use oil that was designed for today's cars (API SX, currently SN), but we can use oil designed for diesels (API CX, currently CJ). The C stand for commercial. CJ4 oil, all of them including the cheap ones have over 1100 ppm of ZDDP which is sufficient for flat tappet cams. Yes, oil 45 years ago had greater levels of ZDDP, but the API has determined that greater levels were not necessary. There may come a time in the near future when we will NOT be able to purchase oil with sufficient levels of ZDDP and we will be forced to purchase boutique oils or additives if legal.

But believe me read a article written by Hot Rod (Not Joe Gibbs) on the subject. Too sum it up, in the last paragraph, "Fill your sump up with diesel or racing oil". Also in the article Crane Cams recommends diesel oil.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...h/viewall.html

Your choice!

70cutty

All of this still fails to answer my question.
Do oils such as Hot Rod oil give me a better protection vs. diesel oil for example, since my cars don't get driven as often??

1970-W30

A little clarification, quote; "The C stand for commercial" That is wrong. The "C" stands for compression ignited, and the "S" such as SN grade oils stands for spark ignited engines.

oldcutlass

From what I've read over the past few years, the Deisel oils do not carry the ZDDp levels they used to, as they also went to catalytic convertors.

bkeese

WRONG! according to the American Petroleum Institute (API)!!!!!!!!!!

S = Service
C = Commercial

Yea but what do they know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.apicj-4.org/2009_ENGINE_OIL_GUIDE.pdf

tru-blue 442

Book marked. Thank you bkeese. A sticky perhaps?

bkeese

True! , but they still have enough for now, maybe not in the future. CJ4 has 1100 ppm of ZDDP, the minimum for flat tappet cams is 1000. So you are left with corrosion prevention as the only true reason for boutique oils. I personally have never seen an engine seize up for sitting unless in a corn field or a blow head gasket. I did have a engine in a Jeep with a plow seize up after unsuccessfully attempting to start by dumping gas down the carb and then letting it sit until spring. I believe the gas scrubbed the oil from the cylinder walls a allowed the cylinders to rust. I don't know exactly, because I junked the engine. I allowed my 67 BB Corvette convert to sit in a garage for 10 years, long story why, and a new battery and a squirt of gas down the carb and it fired up and ran better then when I parked it (float was sticking when parked). There is not a lot of moisture in a sealed engine to cause rust.

The guy I quoted a while back, Duke Williams, is an oil industry engineer and race engine builder and he has convinced most in the NCRS to use cheap CJ4 oil, including me. Do what you want, but the quote you posted, I believe, was sales propaganda, was it not? Those sales guys make big bucks putting spin on anything.

Bottom line, either will work. Use what gives you comfort.

Many years ago, Oldsmobile's had a problem with 350 engines breaking camshafts, like in the 70's. Where those the gas block diesels? A close personal friend of the family was a parts manager at the local dealership. He was at a national convention and the topic move to the failed camshafts and what to do about it. This friend step up and said he was unaware of any issues. Everyone doubted him so he called the dealership at lunch and came back and reported no issues. Oldsmobile immediately sent an investigative team to his dealership to figure out why. What they uncovered was the Quaker State distributor has recommended switching to 15w40 for all Oldsmobile oil changes because it was a better oil and it was the same price. Oldsmobile immediately came out with an emergency bulletin to not use any oil other than the 15w40 in the suspect engine. The 15w40 Quaker State was and still is their heavy duty (diesel) oil. That oil fixed a very big problem for Oldsmobile.

oldcutlass

My deal is that standard 10w30Pensoil is $5.79 qt, the VR1 is $6.19. So for difference of $2.00 per oil change I have peice of mind. I use 20w50 in summer 10w30 in winter. I drive the car year round here in Texas.

1970-W30

My apologies, I stand corrected, not going to argue with the API!


Quote; spark ignited engines.WRONG! according to the American Petroleum Institute (API)!!!!!!!!!!

S = Service
C = Commercial

Yea but what do they know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.apicj-4.org/2009_ENGINE_OIL_GUIDE.pdf
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