Okay, at first I did not know what this thing was or what it do. After reading some posts on here I found out that it was called a Dashpot and I have a little idea on what it is supposed to do. My question is how do I know if this thing is working or not? I don't see any wires or vacuum hose that you can connect to it does this thing just have a adjustment ? If it does how do I know what to adjust it to. Any help would be appreciated

 

If your engine doesn't stall when you let off the gas quickly, especially with the A/C on, then it's working.

Adjustment information is in the Chassis Service Manual for the year in question.

- Eric

 

No my car not stall when I let of the gas quickly as I have been doing that alot since I replaced my carburetor, as for when my A/C is on I have not had a chance to try it because my A/C keeps blowing the wierd looking fuse I think it's called the thermo fuse. But this the next thing I need to work on.. And I do need to get me a service manual for this car..

 

Al,I keep blowing that fuse, had to recharge the system, to fix it.

 

Correct - that fuse is designed to blow if the pressure in the A/C system is too low.

You'd think they would have been happy with a switch that just turned it off, but No...

- Eric

 

Yeah an On/Off switch would have been geat because I'm tiered of buying those dam thingsi blew like five already i recharge the system and it worked for like three days then it blew that fuse, my brother works on A/C systems and thinks my O ring seals might be weak and I might need to replace them, he also has the R12 I need so I guess I'm lucky there, then I can adjust and see if my dashpot works

 

I'd rewire it so that it turns off the compressor like a modern low-pressure switch.

- Eric

 

Exactly what I told him, something the new systems might have,he said he can eliminate it but I still want some sort of fuse or switch so it don't burn my compressor, just not a 4 or 5 dollar one

 

That fuse opens up after a certain time of the compressor running with too little charge.
If you have to keep charging it, it is better to find and fix the leak.
Never bypass this fuse for the sake of your compressor.

The dashpot can be adjusted (screwing it in or out of its mounting bracket) as per a procedure int he chassis manual.
If you are not having stalling issues with the AC on and throttle released, then it is probably doing fine.

 

I don't think I want to bypass it or remove it, I will try to find the leak and fix it, then I can adjust the dashpot because I know it's not adjusted right because I moved it, I have a fisher body service manual but I think I got the wrong one it does not have anything on the engine only body and electrical

 

The Fisher Body Manual covers the body.
The Chassis Service Manual covers the chassis.

- Eric

 

Okay I got the wrong one, I thought this one covered everything since it's a pretty thick book, I guess I need to get the chassis one.. Thanks

 

Dashpot adjustment -

Choke fully open, idle speed set correctly, fast idle cam off all steps (normal idle position).
Depress dashpot stem all the way with needle nose pliers. Should have 0.06" between dashpot stem and carb lever.

Rotate dashpot until clearance is met, then tighten locknut.

 

I have not gone out to the garage to check but when you say Deprees you mean that if I grab it with some needle nose pliers and I pull on the dashpot stem it should still come out some? And if it does I should adjust it to 0.06 is that what you mean

 

No, do not pull on the stem, push it IN. It is spring loaded. Hold it in all the way down and rotate it until you get the 0.060 clearance. Use feeler gauge for checking the gap.
Basically all it does is "pads" the last little bit of a released throttle, slowing its return a little.

 

Okay.. I got it now, I know what you mean, it make sense... Thanks

 

Great - let us know how it goes.

Now, for a little dash o' pot............

 

From the 1972 Service manual 6M-38

Mine is broken....anybody got a spare?