becerra66

Thanks guys I love the pictures and the words used to express your views...Ive had a very heavy heart this morning...

[/I]The bracket in the photo is held to the frame with two screws that you can't see, which can sometimes come loose, allowing the linkage to become cocked.[I] welll what can I say brought a giggle to me face..sorry boys

will do I will check the linkage when I get home...thanks for the smile

didnt see ur windows comment WHAT!!!! it has to be user error then sorry AllanR....I also use a windows vista for everything..WINDOWS rock...MAC's booooo

But Eric ur mac did exactly what the user wanted kudos...lol (*--*)

Allan R

Okee dokey, I was just looking through my archive files for pics of the linkage BEFORE it got taken out and restored.

Here's the first one. It shows the 2 bolts that Eric was describing to attach this assembly to the frame. They are 1/2" IIRC



The end of the linkage that goes to the transmission looks like this and is held in place by a cotter pin. You can manually shift the transmission to park by pushing/or pulling depending on your orientation. IF YOU DO THIS, FOR GOD'S SAKE MAKE SURE THE CAR IS BLOCKED AND CAN'T ROLL FIRST.



Linkage removed - better view of all parts on this assembly



Cleaned up ready for reinstall. Note the rubber bushing on the end that gets a small dollop of lithium grease so it can pivot in the cup easier.



The last thing for convenience? This is the shift rod (bottom piece - don't pay attention to the 3 brackets at the top of that pic) that connects to the backdrive and then extends down to the trans selector. It has the slide adjustment (close to bottom) that is used to select the proper gear on the dash indicator. Moving that slide piece or down as needed (and then fastening it) should allow you to get the selector to match the transmission gear. BTW, there is a small 'WAVE WASHER' that fits between the nut and compresses as the nut is tightened. Don't lose that. You can barely see it in the picture but it's there. Terry, if you're not sure what a wave washer is, it looks like this:




Hope this was the source of the problem instead of something horrible.

becerra66

@ Allan R...Yes that exactly what it's doing, IF it's come loose the rod will simply slide up/down without moving the transmission selector.

@ MDchanic thanks for the editing LOVE it...Uall are so awesome....

Great pictures too....thanks xoxoxox

becerra66

hard to see under the car with the glare from the sun, this is the best I could do today...U all see if anything looks out of place


ALSO I SEE A BROKEN CABLE COMING FROM THE PEDAL

Allan R

Terry
1. The cable you think is broken isn't. That's the kickdown cable for the transmission. It's obviously been played with.
2. The yellow connector is the windshield antenna for your stock radio
3. The blue / orange wire with the plug is likely the feed to the seat belt warning buzzer. Does your car have a seatbelt warning light on the idiot light pod? If it does, is it working??

4. Your Transmission inspection cover is missing.
5. I expanded your 5th picture and the drive selector linkages all look like they're supposed to. No signs of the rod slipping (that would show as shiny where it's sliding) And yes, the wave washer is in place too.

6. I don't recall seeing a boot like that from the shift linkage on my car. Is this transmission original??

becerra66

Ok the picture with the arrows have a thin cable inside leading somewhere got dark and skeeters too...


Also I know u say its not broken but Allan its clearly broken, where's that cable coming from and leading too


And YES I have a few blocks behind the tires, Im worried cuz my keys are stuck in the ignition....got my van butted up against the cutlass

Allan R

Terry, B (lol I crak myself up) I was trying to say 'be' a sweetie and look at page 7-243 of your CSM. It shows the adjustment procedure for the kickdown linkage on a TH350 transmission. When you get your carb back, you're going to have to do this anyway because the throttle linkage might have been changed slightly. I'll hunt through my archive photos and see if I can dig up a better pic for ya.

Oh, skeeter are spoda live there in the dark where you least expect em

One other note, if the car is shut off and in drive? It shouldn't start. You can check that. If it starts, it's in either Neutral or Park. That's a built in safety feature same as your van.

MDchanic

+1 to Allan's statement - that's just the end of the kickdown cable.

It shouldn't be all frayed, but, hey, that's the way it is.

- Eric

Allan R

Hmm, not yet but I did find a pic of the 7042250 I put on my car back in 2008. A bit dusty from when I was doing my suspension and frame work, but this is what the stock carb would look like. All the lines are hooked up properly and as you can see I also have the TCS hooked up. Lots of peeps don't like it, but I've kept mine. I don't believe I saw one in your intake manifold. It's something you don't absolutely need but I like to keep mine pretty much stock.

MDchanic

I think what we have here is a failure to communicate...









Had to check Terry's old pictures to see... For a moment, I thought maybe she had one of those "rare" his 'n' hers shifters...


Terry, you need to take a look at your shifter in the console.
Remove the console (4 screws, I believe), and then look to see if the quarter-circle-shaped quadrant is jammed with the gearshift lever lock in some way.

And / Or you could disconnect your backdrive linkage, try rotating your column collar one way or the other, and see if everything starts working right again.

- Eric

Allan R

Sadly this happens when Neanderthals work on cars.. Speaking of frayed? I couldn't help myself.... an oldie but a goodie...

Terry B, I be seeing that grin on yer face

Allan R

I didn't realize she had the A51 and D55 setup. Cleared that right up sir!

Just another quick note. That grey wire hanging down below the light switch is probably the wire going up to the rear view mirror map light or to the back of the headlight accessory lighting. Tuck it up out of the way - maybe tape it to the left side harness for the lights?

Fun71

I have never adjusted the kickdown cable when swapping carbs; I find it is easier to adjust the throttle cable/bracket so that the carb is at WOT when the pedal is on the floor.


Or maybe try moving the column collar as-is. It doesn't take much slack for things to get out of alignment.

becerra66

Ok let me look at the manual Allan wants me to review, I started looking last night but sleeping pills took over zzz zzz zzzzz


and I was reviewing the csm last night but confused on the handle shifter once I unscrew the gold ball on my shift the bottom part of handle is still there does that unscrew too or how do I get that off I couldnt tell....

Allan R

Ken, adjusting the TH350 kickdown is a breeze. Only takes about a minute and it's (almost) foolproof. The ball on that wire seats itself automatically relative to the WOT application. Nothing else required. Wish all the adjustments on cars were that easy.

becerra66

Allan R ok I am home looking thru my csm manual....and I must be missing a section WHAT!!!!!l6N-6 section skips right to section 8-1...Allan to make sure were on the same page....you are talking about the 72 CSM right!!!!!


ERIC!!!!!! *--* how do I take off that dog on silver metal part...ok I got it...may have broken it but I got it....

76olds

ERIC!!!!!! *--* how do I take off that dog on silver metal part[/QUOTE]

I know wrong Eric here, but I have heard that once you get past the ball it takes a little twerking to get it off.
Jus' saying I've heard. Lord tunderin' geez!! I meant tweeking.
Eric H

Allan R

Absolutely Terry. If you're missing it I believe Eric has an e copy of that from a download he did a while back. Maybe he could send you the entire section you're missing? If not, I can scan the information I was referencing for you.

Look on the side under that T on the handle. There should be a roll pin you'll have to push out. Use a small drift (punch) to do that. If you run into problems I'll scan that for you.

Allan R

Here you go.

Fun71

Understood, but pedal on the floor = WOT and that should not change based on a different carburetor. My point was/is that I see no need to modify the trans kickdown adjustment when changing carbs - just verify that the carb goes WOT when the pedal is on the floor. If it's not, then the pedal will be stopped from contacting the floor by the cable and I don't think that would be good for the longevity of the cable.

becerra66

Me smiling...well got it off...got extra pins somewhere....quit getting side tracked..........SQUIRREL


Any ways...Dunno looks good to me even though I don't know what Im looking at everything looks in place to me


Last thing to check is the steering wheel, if they monkeyed up everything else on the car why not screw up the chevy steering wheel they put in....


Let me know what u all think


awwww u all make me feel better thank u from the bottom of my heart.....dog on human feeling interfering again.....yep Ima little different

Octania

For the damsel and other interested parties

Videos in post #8 of the Proper Choke and Carb Operation thread listed below show proper operation of a QJet and its automatic choke.

Snaps shut as soon as the throttle releases the fast idle cam
Unloads some at WOT

Engine starts IMMEDIATELY [after six months inoperative]
choke pulloff draws in, pulling the choke open the right amount
Engine settles into a nice high idle.

Voila'

please go see https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...arb-choke.html

It's basic simple Rocket Surgery
A dozen things that contribute to joy if hooked up right and working right... or to exasperation if 'rigged and disconnected and missing crucial components.

becerra66

Eric 76olds hey if your from the farm ur good to go....lol u have hookers under ur hood....me smiling at you...


I was just shouting at Eric....maybe I missed a part in the manuals, he sent them to me..dunno maybe Im just tired...if there in the ones she sent me he will know where they are....he's lucky Ima in texas and cant drive down the street...lol hehehe


Thanks Octania...


I cant remember which post it was but one of you guys, one of my regular guys that helps me...I had this problem at the end february


ONE Of UALL said I could disconnect something under the hood and unlock the steering column...which of u was it.. who I say who please come forward with ur knowledge


I looked thru old posts but couldn't find crap too buzy at wk today

tru-blue 442

Terry, with the shifter in park, grab hold of the steering column, between
the ignition switch and the dash and see if it will rotate to the left a little.
Your key may come out and the column may lock. If so, the slide on the
back drive rod can be adjusted and you will be fixed up again. Good luck girl,
You're getting there!

Octania

Then go get a drink of "water" and a straw.
Take a swig- ah.

Now pinch the straw shut and take a swig- no joy

That is what your pinched fuel line is doing to the fuel flow. Get a real unmangled steel line on that poor thing, right after plug wires and proper carb and choke and Undoing that ignorant manifold to carb vacuum line.... and...

MDchanic

Terry, you can disconnect the backdrive linkage at either of these two locations to test where the problem is coming from.

And I agree: Your floor shifter looks fine.
If you see that quarter-circle part that is attached with two small bolts - the latch from the shift lever grabs it to keep the shifter from being knocked into the wrong gear. If it was somehow jamming the lever, it would be out of position.



- Eric

becerra66

whew !!!! OCTANIA THATS WAS FUNNY STUFF.....ok Im getting that new part with the carburetor.....ok .....mijo lindo chulu.....there wont be a carburetor or gas flowing thru crap unless I this this dog on key out of ignition and shifter working again....hugsxoxox


@ trueblue....my park is not working I have blocks under back tires..and in NEUTRAL like most cars u can start in neutral the cutlass has nvr started in neutral....I take 3 steps forward then 1 step backwards....where exactly am I getting and where I am going...and I tried to move the column where u said that didn't work...boo hoo hoo.....


@ Eric......where uve been mannnnnn I almost gased up......I will try that next...that's not what I was looking for but will try..


I think it was oldcutlass the other Eric that mentioned under the hood some where...I wonder and correct me if Im wrong isn't there a linkage bolt thing on top right under the steering column under the hood....IMa go try what Eric # 3 said tmrw


MDchanic is Eric #1
Oldcutlass is Eric #2
76olds is Eric # 3 and only cuz that's the order I met Uall in....


I get off early tomorrow and off Thursday too..I should be able to squeeze in some time with the cutlass...

Fun71

Not that different! You made me laugh, and I showed your post to my wife and she laughed too. So some of us can relate...

MDchanic

That's the one that the top arrow in the picture is pointing to.

The picture is from under the car, but you can reach it easier from inside the engine compartment.

- Eric

becerra66

One question before I get to work


can I remove the pin from here and will it release the lock on steering wheel


I don't like to ge under car with out stands and currently don't have any..sons been wking


so If I can...will that wk


thank you have a good day peace & love

MDchanic

Yes, that's it.

If you disconnect it there, either the ignition switch will stay stuck, or the gearshift will stay stuck, and then you'll know where the problem is.

If the ignition switch stays stuck, you can try wiggling that tab at the bottom of the column that the rod was connected to, or wiggling (ie: rotating) the collar at the top of the column, just below the steering wheel (which would have the gearshift attached to it if the car were a column shift), while messing with the ignition, to see whether that frees it up.

- Eric

becerra66

Joe's and Eric you posted on that as well Post - https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-ignition.html

joe_padavano posted this March 1st
Welcome. First thing, throw away the worthless Chilton manual and get a real factory Chassis Service Manual.
Second, is this car a column shift, factory floor shift, or converted floor shift? The possible failure modes can vary, depending on which it is.
Now, your real problem is the backdrive linkage that locks the shifter with the key. This was a federal requirement starting with the 1969 model year. The CSM will show you the details of this system and how to adjust it.
All column shift and factory floor shift cars have a rod running from the trans to a tab on the steering column. On column shift cars, this is the shift linkage. On factory floor shift cars, this is called a backdrive linkage and moves with the floor shift. In both cases, this linkage rotates a collar in the steering column that will lock with the key when you turn the key to the LOCK position. If the collar doesn't rotate fully counterclockwise, you won't be able to turn the key all the way to LOCK.
It is common for the bushings in this linkage to wear, causing the linkage to get out of adjustment. The linkage is visible under the hood, so don't go taking anything apart yet. For starters, grab the collar on the steering column just forward of the lock cylinder (where the shift lever is or would be on a column shift car) and rotate it as far counterclockwise as possible while trying to turn the key to LOCK. If you can't turn it enough, go under the hood and temporarily disconnect the linkage at the steering column, then turn the collar. This should let you remove the key.
If this works, figure out what's worn or out of adjustment in the linkage. Note that if this is a factory floor shift car, check to see if the shifter cable is worn and stuck, which also is common. That could be the root problem.
If this is a converted floor shift with an aftermarket shifter or an incorrect retrofit of a factory floor shifter, all bets are off.

MDchanic

Forgot all about that. Yeah, that covers it pretty well.

- Eric

becerra66

Eric #1, Allan wanted me too review the CSM in section 7-???

But my CSM is missing section7 WHAT

would it be any where else in the docs u sent me

MDchanic

You're right.

Weird.

I'll send you the few relevant pages via e-mail, and I'll have to send you the whole chapter (most of which you will never use) later.

Sorry,

- Eric

becerra66

Eric I didn't see any attachments to the email, no pages nada!!!!


No worries if ur busy...got the rosary tonight so wont get to it till tomrw


Thanks

Allan R

See if this helps Terry

MDchanic

I resent them Terry. Forgot to attach the file.

- Eric

becerra66

Hey everyone I got the DOG ON KEY OUT!!!!ugghhhhh

couldn't wait got a little dirty, but from the back linkage I had to manually move the linkage back into place to get key out...


Nice Pic thanks !!!!Oh YES that's very good grasshoppers...oh no Im the grasshopper this time

So does that mean I need to adjust the cabling or do I need new linkage

Allan R

I'm sure Terry won't resent you doing that since you were trying to be helpful . I think you meant re-send or re-sent though. Gee, you don't usually leave yourself open for stuff like this.

From Merriam Webster