Steve Wike

Well…Found a 71 Cutlass S that has been sitting 21 years-still thinking about offer. On trying to see if she will turn over, what else to I need to consider beside these items: New distributor (points, condenser, and rotor), plugs, wires, battery, starter fluid, and a good key. A friend at Church said to disconnect the coil wire before trying to start. Should I even think the wiring would still be OK in this car at all? Please advise…Thanks

Oh, they lost the trunk key, and had locksmith work an hour on the lock and still could not get it opened. Back seat is out…what tool on an extension could you use to open it from back seat area? Guess one will have to drill out lock.

64Rocket

With the back seat out, reach in with a couple of extensions and a 7/16 socket and take lose the two bolts that hold the striker to the body. With the trunk open you can take the two screws that hold the retainer for the key cyl. The locksmith can make a key from the number on the cyl. The glove box lock would be much easier and is the same key as the trunk.
If the car was stored inside for all that time or outside? Drain the gas tank. Unhook the line from the tank to the fuel pump, run a line to a gas can to the pump.I would pull the plugs and turn the engine over by the damper bolt. Then install the battery and turn the engine over with the starter build up some oil pressure. Install the plugs, pore some gas down the carb and see what happens. If it runs, do a tune up and check the rest of the car out, brakes, tires, trans, power steering, clean the gas tank.

Gene

Steve Wike

Thanks Gene. She has been sitting outside under a mulberry tree since 1988 in Arkansas...covered, but not too well, as she has two bad spots around the back window, amoung other things. Very hard window repair...Have you ever fabricated such sections as these? You really need a roller and bender. Also, I wonder if the block is cracked? Could it be..from sitting and getting hot/cold/hot... no coolant moving through her? How can you tell "looking" from the outside, if at all. Thoughts?

I am new to this, as you can tell...But got to learn sometime. Do eaxctly as you said on the staert up. correct?
Steve

redoldsman

The first thing I would do is pull the plug wire like your friend said and then install a good battery. Then see if is going to turn over or if the engine is frozen. Don't be surpised if it is. If it is, the rest is a moot point. If it does turn over, I would follow the advice of 64 Rocket. A couple other things I would do is pull the plugs and squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil down each of the cylinders and let it soak for awhile. I would also change the oil and filter. Then crank it over with the plugs out. If you get it running, I would change the oil again pretty shortly since it may have a lot of moisture or crud in the crankcase. Good luck.

jaunty75

I think it's very unlikey that just sitting out in the sun will cause an engine block to crack. You need a much wider and more sudden temperature swing that going from a cool evening to a hot day to a cool evening, unless you're on the surface of Mars.

You need coolant moving through when it's running at 200 degrees F, not when it's just sitting and turned off. I wouldn't give this a second thought. I'm not saying the block isn't cracked. I'm saying that sitting in the sun wouldn't cause it.

You might want to do a few things to the car before making an offer, such as the suggested removal of the plugs and spinning the engine to at least make sure it's not seized. A new battery, changing oil, new plug wires, and many of the other suggestions run into money which you probably don't want to spend unless you know the car is yours.

What are they asking for this car?

Steve Wike

They are asking $6,000...I am going to look at it again to see what the trunk looks like and pull up carpeting as much as I can. Will need all new interior, all quaters patched(I was hoping someone sold patches for back quarters, but looks like you buy and cut what you need. Front ones are available. 2 section of back window repairs will be tough...and not sure where else the water has flow too over the years... Has all glass, no cracks, body trim/molding and good dash. Will need front right fender repaired/replaced as bumper has pushed it in. Several things can wait on car. All new paint too. That will be very costly. My offer? Starting at $1,000...am I being too cheap? Thanks for you input. Please advise.

jaunty75

A car that's been sitting outside under a mulberry tree for 21 years, they don't know if it runs, no trunk key, and they want SIX THOUSAND DOLLARS!!!??? OH MY GOD!!!


OK, I've calmed down. The people who own this are certifiable. The '71 Cutlass S came either as a 2-door hardtop or 2-door post coupe. In #5 condition, which is a restorable car which may or may not run but that needs LOTS of help, which sounds like a good description of the car you're looking at, its worth about $1400 for the coupe or $1800 for the hardtop. In #4 condition, which is a good running car in which all major systems work but looks its age and needs a full restoration, which MIGHT be the car you're looking at, if it runs, its worth about $2400 for the coupe or $3000 for the hardtop. It would be smart of whoever is selling this car to get it running if they can because doing so really affects the value.

But $6K. No way. Get it to showroom condition and its worth that or more, but not the way it is now.

Your idea of a $1000 offer is good, and maybe be willing to go to $2000-$2500 depending on the car's condition and whether or not it runs. But I wouldn't go much higher than that. If they won't budge on their price, tell them you'll come back later and buy it from their heirs as they most certainly will still have the car when it comes time to read their will.

lshlsh2

No $1000 sounds about right. It sounds like a border line parts car. I think they have been watching to many barrett-jackson auctions. $500 if the moter is seized.
Larry

Steve Wike

Thanks! My friend who went with me said about $1,500. The motor truns, not locked up. We tapped under the underbody as much as possible, and it seem "good" I guess if the trunk and floor are "pretty" clean up top, and no major holes, then the bottom should clean up well? and then put a good coat of POR or similar subst. on it... I know a guy who has a complete machine shop (never seens it) but guess he might have the tools to remold the window seal/lips? No amount of filler will work here. Will let you know what happens. Thanks for all your input!
Steve

jaunty75

From what you say and the fact that it runs, it sounds better and better. Yes, please let us know how this finally comes out, and DO post pictures if you get it!

Steve Wike

Forgive me....The motor is NOT locked up, but does NOT run...If I get it for $1,000, I will have about $1,100 left over to put into this 3 year project.

jaunty75

Do you know why it doesn't run? Is this a quick fix or a big deal? That'll certainly affect the value.


I'm curious. Why is it a three-year project? Do you have some deadline to meet or a plan to show it somewhere in three year's time?

Also, between you, me, and the grand piano, $1100 ain't a heck of a lot to spend on something like this. You might have three years for the project, but your $1100 could be gone in three weeks!

As one example, if the bumpers need to be rechromed, that could easily be $400 to $500 each, and there's pretty much all of your $1000 right there. As another example, reupholstered seats and new carpet could easily cost $500 to $1000 total. Plus you apparently have to contend with rust repairs, still unresolved engine problems, and possibly much else.

Are you sure you want to get into something like this only to run out of money and have to set things aside when the car is only 20% or 30% restored? Do you have a good, indoor, dry place to keep it so that you can leave it and come back to it as your finances permit?

Instead of "rotisserie restorations," many people do "rolling restorations," where they get it running and safe (good brakes, etc.) as quickly as they can and then fix things and replace things as time and money permit. When money is more scarce, they just drive the car and enjoy it. When money is more plentiful, they might spring for that new top, a new bumper or bumper rechrome, reupholstery on the driver's seat, or something else. It might take 10 years to "finish" the job, if they ever do, but that's not their real goal. The real fun of owning the old car is the process of fixing it up. For these people, and I count myself as one of them, the saddest day is when they're "done."

Steve Wike

Let me rephase that....After I buy it, I will have about $1,100 to invest initially towards my end goal of fixing it up into a daily driver. Yes, I expect to spend at least $10,0000 more on the car over time. I did not mean to put a three year limit on it. I want it to be a daily driver, like you, and many others, and fix it up as close to its "original" condition. It will take the left-over $1,100 "maybe" to get it running and put part of a new brake system in it. As you kindly pointed out, this might not been the one I need...as it will need lots of attention. Keep in touch please
Steve

jaunty75

Sounds like you have a good plan. Remember, we want to see photos AS SOON AS you get it!!