After my 1974 Cutlass Supreme sits for a day or over night when I crank...it take time for the chike to disengage, I actually have to drive it a minute before it releases..is this a carburetor issue

 

When was the last time you adjusted the choke? Is it a hot air choke or an electric?

 

Sounds normal if it's on high idle for a minute or so and then will go to curb idle after tapping the accelerator.

 

When I tap the pedal it doesn't release until driving for a minute..I guess it is a hot air carb..I don't know how to fix the choke

 

To set the choke depress the gas pedal to the floor once with the engine cold. When you look at the carburetor the choke valve should be nearly closed. If not, loosen the three screws holding the black choke housing on the side of the carburetor and rotate the black cover. The choke will open or close depending on which way you rotate the black cover. There is a measurement given in carburetor rebuild kits which is the distance between the choke valve and the airhorn (carburetor body) but I always adjust a choke to completely closed and then move it just a hair open. Give this a shot and let us know how it starts.

Updated my comment with posts I made on ClassicOlds and on a Ford truck website!

 

Get some Carburetor cleaner in a spray can .
Remove the air cleaner and spray down the carburetor inside and out , especially the choke and linkage .
Allow it to dry , or dry with compressed air .
Replace air cleaner .
Your problem may very well be solved at this point .

 

Thanks will let you all know

 

That's a sign the choke is set to rich or your not allowing sufficient time for the bi-metal spring to heat up and activate. Remember this isn't a modern fuel injected car.
Back the choke setting off (lean) in small increments. You will see arrows depicting rich/lean direction. Go one-click lean see what happens and repeat. Shouldn't have to go more than 2-3 clicks. If so something else is defective.

Is it a heat tube or electric choke?
Electric verify 12 volts present with the key in the run position.
Heat tube, verify the integrity of the heat tube assembly.

Still a problem?

Check:
1. the choke closed gap setting.
2. the bi-metal spring under the black cap. It can be defective or not installed on the fork properly.
3. the pull-off diaphragm and its linkage. The pull-off diaphragm should hold a vacuum. Check the vacuum hose to it.
4. butterfly and choke linkage for binding/freedom of movement and or contamination.

If all of this is Greek Id suggest employing a knowledgable carb guy to adjust/troubleshoot/rebuild.
Fast learner with tools and attention to detail? Pick up the QJet bibles...Doug and Cliff's books on QuadraJets. Worth their weight in gold.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Quad...hrome&ie=UTF-8

 

Something strikes me about this thread .
It's a lack of INFORMATION .
All we know this far is that the vehicle is a '74 Olds Cutlass Supreme .

We don't know if it has a 350 or a 455 or a 250 straight six .
We don't know if it is a two or 4 barrel carb .
We don't know if the carb is original , or has it been replaced with some aftermarket carb . ( Edelbrock , Quick Fuel , etc. )
Cublex , we need to know these things to make an accurate guess as to what may be wrong .

The 1974 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual is THE source for information on adjusting chokes and other carb repairs .
They are available here ;
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...963+oldsmobile

 

Cublex please refer to the link below as well as answering our questions regarding your car.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...edures-145673/

 

https://www.chevelles.com/techref/Ad...tic_Chokes.htm

 

Thanks fella I adjusted the choke and it works fine right now