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The AC RC15 is correct for a 70-442, but, I believe
the version that you have is a later version vs the original RC15. I thought the 69-70 era original rad caps that came stock were of the "big ear" design. I could be wrong.
I agree with the others the cap in your pic is not the right cap. The cap in Bob's pic is not the right cap (hollow rivet caps are earlier than 1970), although it's a lot more closer appearing. As far as a cap being "accepted" in judging, it really depends on the judges, the other cars you are competing against, and the type of show. At a Lion's club show with 25 cars you could take BOC with that cap. At an OCA show, you would lose a point or 2, or not at all. Personally, if I were judging, I'd prefer to see a large ear decent repro cap with a solid rivet. You are talking about something a trained eye can see from 10 feet away. You can probably get a correct appearing repro for less than the cap in your pic. In any event, if you must have the exact correct cap, be absolutely sure what it looks like. Because many sellers will say something fits 64-72 and that's not correct. And...be prepared to spend a lot for it!
Thanks guys. I was looking at pictures of the ‘70 W30 convertible that sold at Mecum Kissimmee this past January for $247K. Car scored 998/1000 at OCA Nationals in 2017. Pictures give me a general idea of the correct cap but no pictures from above - assuming that car has the correct cap and didn’t have a point or 2 deducted for the incorrect cap lol.
Well Mike,this is one of those questions that nobody wants to commit to answering. I can tell you this...I'm 67 years old, in the late 60's and early 70's I was a real car guy working in gas stations and wrenching, racing, etc. I will stake my first ex wife's life and say that a 1970 GM radiator cap was an RC 15 with big ears. No question about it at all. Like belts or hoses, not every one has the same markings. That's where the problem is. Some just say RC 15, some have a circle, some have a hashtag, some have a solid rivet, some have different looking arrows, some were dichromate plated gold-like...and on and on. I actually have an NOS AC 15 here someplace that's gold like plated. In my 69 PIM it states it's gold colored. Anyhoo...no 1970 GM cap had those small ears on it from the factory AFAIK. I run a repro big ear cap with a solid rivet. There are many repro caps out there, and some look really cheezy, and some look ok. I'm into appearances. I would rather have a good looking big ear repro, than a small ear later "real" over-the-counter RC 15. I want it to look right and function right. The cap you show, some were made in Mexico, India, etc. They state it right on the box. Why don't I run a $300.00 NOS cap? Or run a $279.00 rebuilt? It's just not worth it to me. Nobody really, really knows for sure what a 1970 cap looks like. I'm going to stake my second ex wife's life on that. Someone could say " I bought the car new, it was built in October, 1969 and the car only has 100 miles on it. Great! But a later car could have a same but different looking cap. I have never...never ever...read anything that said "every 1970 cap should look exactly like this". Not the crazy 'vette maniac guys or anybody ever. Why don't I run a rebuilt? the same reason, I don't want a cap that's been beaded and has unclear writing, or a pitted, replated cap. If somebody says "Hey, that's a repro cap on your car", I don't care. I don't care if they dock me.a point for it. I want to see big ear caps on 1970's if I'm judging. I'll get back...
Thanks for the great information mrolds - and a good laugh. My wife was asking me what was so funny as I was reading your post.
My car is in a hundred thousand pieces. All the bones are there - and they are good original bones. While I have the car apart - and the opportunity - I would like to gather as many factory correct parts as possible. And I want those parts to be as high quality as possible.. The last thing I want is to have some cheap radiator cap spraying fluids all over my engine bay. Cheap is expensive. But I am far from being an expert. I don’t know much but I am learning from you guys. Hopefully I don’t annoy you too much when I try to pick your brains. I have been into bikes for a long time and learned the hard way to just leave the bike stock. Most of the aftermarket stuff is made in China (along with a lot of the “factory” parts on the new Harleys), it doesn’t fit right, it rattles and it rusts. If you ask me the longest lasting thing to come out of China is the Corona Virus.
Thanks for the pictures blue.
With that babbling ramble being said I appreciate the help. If mrolds or anyone else has a picture of a correct high quality repro cap with the larger ears I would appreciate it. Thank you.
Enjoy your Sunday.
Mike
Last edited by Bigmikey65; December 27th, 2020 at 10:23 AM.
Mike, both of these caps are good pics for what you are looking for. Adam's cap would be a really nice core, but both of those caps could be nicely restored. The hollow type rivet is maybe 1967 back. I think the top cap restorer either died or retired. I have a repro cap I bought around 20 years ago. I live in MA and before Covid would drive to every New England state for shows or cruises. I've never had any problem with that repro cap, after many thousands of miles. The main difference on a repro is the rivet. Both hollow and solid rivet types are available. There are many solid rivet styles, some look cheezy. I don't remember where I bought mine, but I'm guessing it was AMES or Fusick, or one of the noted 'vette suppliers. It's not a part you want to buy from Inline. I bought an RC 15 hollow rivet cap for my 67 GS400 maybe 10 years ago from a place called CARS in NJ. They do Buick stuff, and that car's been driven a lot with no problems. I have not actually bought an RC 15 since then, so I don't know what's out there now. You have to study them. At one time the repros didn't have the line at the base of the triangular point of the arrows. I've not seen a repro rivet like an original. My car is a couple hours away, so no pics for you.
Last edited by mrolds69; December 27th, 2020 at 02:22 PM.
That's the CARS place I was talking about. The owner sucks...check their feedback...if there's a problem he will give you a nightmare of trouble and charge a 20% return fee. Use PayPal if you buy from him. But...the cap for my 67 GS was nice.
If you put an alignment stripe on it (like the factory did) no one will know what kind of rivet is holding it together if you have to have a big ear cap.
Hopefully this could let the dead horse just be dead. This is an original radiator cap off of a 19,000 original mile survivors alignment stripes included.
Fred - thx for sharing this photo, very cool. Do you know if this rad cap was the semi depressed rivet or the fully hollowed design? I can only assume it is not the completely flat rivet design.
This cap came on my 70 W30, recently purchased. It certainly was in worse shape than the restoration pictures I attach. Gen2 did it. To add to the conspiracy, if the AC logo is in alignment and the stamping is lightly done then it likely is a repop.
December 26th, 2020, 04:15 PM
