1970 Oldsmobile 442 with clutch with noticeable shudder on engagement. This is the second new clutch I had put in. This last try was by a transmission specialist. Both times the flywheel was resurfaced and new clutch put in. The first clutch was an AMS and the second clutch was a LuK. I'm regrouping trying to decide what to do next. Any ideas?

 

Clutch chatter often happens with the 3 finger clutches, when the sufaces don't meet exactly parallel. Often they are adjustable to get them right. A good diaphragm clutch should not chatter and they are plenty strong for most applications.

 

what randy said and also what about condition of motor mounts,trans mount ,pilot bearing/bushing?

 

The LUK should be a diaphragm style...no?
Verify that you have the correct throw-out bearing and that it's inserted into the fork correctly. The LUK requires its own TO bearing. It should have come with the clutch kit? The disc is directional. Is the correct face of the disc facing the flywheel?
It probably is but let's start with the basics. Hows the free play? Hows the linkage geometry and serviceability? Hows the pivot ball? Are the bell housing and trans to bell housing fasteners tight? Look at the engine and trans mounts. Look for engine oil or coolant leaking on to the flywheel.
Pull the inspection cover and look at the rotating assembly while its running. Observe excessive runout. Ujoints nice n tight?
If the clutch is not fully releasing it could cause hot spots which will cause chatter.

 

I've witnessed strange issues if the pilot bearing is no good also. Adjustment is also critical on some clutch setups.

 

how many miles on the clutch and just how are you driving it??,when new, clutch pressure plates are coated with oil to keep em from rusting,if this didn't get cleaned off with lacquer thinner that will cause problems,also the flywheel needs to be wiped off.

 

I have a center force clutch in my W31 and I have read that these clutches will chatter a bit. Mine was worse initially but as its broken in its gotten a ton better. I do find that you have to blend the clutch a little more when in 1st gear. I think the dual friction clutches are all similar in that way. I only have about 800 miles on the drive train so its just broken in. Otherwise a very happy setup. Another difference will be the rear end gears. I'm running the factory TO rear end with 3.91's but when I first bought the car it had 3.42's and blending the clutch was required for a smooth transition. The 3.91's are a lot better. Al

 

 

Had the very same problem in another car, it was a broken motor mount....

 

The O-Poster hasn't followed up on this. One would think he has ferreted it out by now??? If so please post your solution to the problem.
I have had nothing but good results with the LUK in stick shifted C-2, early C-3 Vettes.
Again the kit should contain the right TO bearing. Do not purchase a separate TO bearing made for the application. Thou it may be correct it is not a match to the LUK. The LUK TO is slightly shorter and is a composite material verses old school all metal. If the TO is too thick it could be interfering with the disc somehow.

All other variables need to be addressed as well, Inspect pilot bushing ID/OD, Trans input/output shaft play, Flywheel concentricity, friction face run out, any bell housing off set happening?? Observe the clutch assembly as the engine is running, your looking hop and wobble. Also include inspection of chassis components critical to smooth operation...as mentioned motor/trans mounts, U Joints, Control arm bushings et al.....